BlownCorona Posted August 23, 2016 Author Share Posted August 23, 2016 Yeah speaking to ashkellybarr who I'll hopefully be grabbing the blower from, the best way forward is efi and a big single throttle before the blower. I've seen quite a few builds including one on here that used a J pipe onto the factory carb manifold to attach the charge pipe. And while this won't be the best flowing system, it would mean less headaches from the dumb half bolt manifolds which has plagued me with issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ash Kelly barr Posted August 24, 2016 Share Posted August 24, 2016 You can run throttle after if response is an issue but will need to use a mag clutch and run bypass valves witch is more pissing around, ugly pipe work and $ Money to make that work would be better invested in a water/meth injection kit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim13 Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 Overheating is usually either really obvious what's wrong or a total nightmare ! I use an digital infrared thermometer to confirm whether it is actually overheating or a guage issue ? Then if it is overheating you can find if there is a localized hot or cool spot to give you a clue whats up . some interesting things to find include internally bypassing radiators , water pumps with wrong impeller trying to pump the wrong way and more of a new car issue air locks , good luck dude , hope it's easier to fix than it is to find ...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted October 26, 2016 Author Share Posted October 26, 2016 im pretty 100% certain its overheating as it will end up getting spark break up/ possible detonation and it goes away once its cooled off. the engine is coming apart anyway so ill make sure theres no damage due to that but there shouldn't be as its only ever just touched on it before being shut off. that said, i do have access to an infrared thermo so ill give that a go. i also have access to a coolant system pressure tester to ill check theres no leaking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QCADTA Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 is your radiator cap lower than the top hose? hard to tell from the photo. if so this could create an airlock causing your issues. Try raising the radiator so the caps the highest point if it isn't. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted October 26, 2016 Author Share Posted October 26, 2016 It is a touch lower, it's always been lower though, but I'll raise it up anyway. Cheers for the suggestions Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
QCADTA Posted October 26, 2016 Share Posted October 26, 2016 just looking at your ignition setup, whats the ignition module mounted on? these get hot and over heat if not mounted on a heat sink with a bit of heat paste in between etc, and cause the issues youre describing. It could be when the ignition module cools back down it restarts fine, fire it up and see if it gets hot and youre problems start when it does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted October 26, 2016 Author Share Posted October 26, 2016 Mounted on two bits of 3mm flat bar. I'll check it out, but as far as I know it doesn't warm up much more than room temp. Spark break up is predictable at around 250f on the gauge. Which may or may not be true temp, but it's certainly very hot at this point. Not that I intentionally run it up that high Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtbag Posted November 22, 2016 Share Posted November 22, 2016 I put a carbed 18RG in my RT84 a few years ago and just bolted the master cylinder straight to the firewall and ran hard lines to the LHS where I have an aliexpress vh44 booster. Works great. Think I had to fix a washer or something on the inside of the firewall to keep the pushrod located into the master cylinder. Easily done and beats unboosted brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted November 22, 2016 Author Share Posted November 22, 2016 that sounds ideal. cheers for the first hand experience! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted January 17, 2017 Share Posted January 17, 2017 Lerl, had you just been bleeding them randomly? Bleed farthest from the master cylinder first, this gets out 90% of the air in the system then work your way back to the cylinder distance wise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted January 17, 2017 Author Share Posted January 17, 2017 yarp must have been luck in the past that i never had an issue Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AE25 Posted January 24, 2017 Share Posted January 24, 2017 Re chain tensioner... just checking that you know it is adjustable? rattle upon startup can often be cured with a tighten. 5kg of force on the spring loaded piston in the end of it should move it 0.5mm. (after rotating the crank clockwise to put the chain slack on the tensioner side). also the tensioner are cast iron and break easy so no tapping or leaning on it. Do you has 18rg workshop manual? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted January 25, 2017 Author Share Posted January 25, 2017 i do have an 18rg (not rgeu) shop manual, i did have an inkling that it was adjustable. but hadnt got around to checking it out. should be an easy fix then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CUL8R Posted May 9, 2017 Share Posted May 9, 2017 Tidy setup Josh, Nick M could do your tig welding? Going to be a small air box/filter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted May 9, 2017 Author Share Posted May 9, 2017 thanks chris! ive got a really nice ramair filter here that im hoping to use, but im really not sure if its going to fit. the hood may not even fit without some spacers under the rear! need to shave off and re plumb all that stuff off the top of the blower to find out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igor Posted June 12, 2017 Share Posted June 12, 2017 A man could be forgiven for thinking you like a drop of whisky @Fliboi. The car is looking good too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted June 12, 2017 Author Share Posted June 12, 2017 well your not wrong on both counts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted June 14, 2017 Share Posted June 14, 2017 Looking great man! You have any plans for intercooling? I like how you have your TB at the right end. People always do it the wrong way around which creates problems. Sc12 yeah? What size is the engine? (I don't understand Toyota engine codes) What ratio are you spinning the barometric compensator at? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted June 14, 2017 Author Share Posted June 14, 2017 No plans for an intercooler if I can get away with it, it'll be an absolute nightmare trying to get pipes out the front. Only going to be running around 5-6 psi so shouldn't have any issue. And yes many conversations with ashkellybarr about the right way to set the tb up etc. I have an sr20de water pump pulley on the crank with is a bought 1-1 ratio, this will probably result in too much boost, but I had it on hand, and didn't want to go to the trouble of sourcing a smaller pulley and finding out that in the real world it only made 3psi and the sr20 pulley was the one all along! Engine Is 2000cc efi cross flow, 8v big port head. Compression ratio I can't confirm but I believe between 8.75 and 9.25ish Also note that the passenger is going to get a face full of blower noise due to tb and air filter placement! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.