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Spennos Buick Estate


KKtrips

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Found a place in the states that wioll do a new headliner for ~$200 sewen to fit. was just going to go with a beige patterned GM vinyl

Found a parts car in the states so hopefully I can get the bits I need off it. Also sorted a new vinyl roof, the guy wont sell it to me without seeing samples of the vinyl (from the US, they only stock black in Aus these days) so will be well into Jan before I get that sorted

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  • 3 months later...
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Couldnt find a discussion thread? That thing is choice.

I thought my bumper was big but yours is the grill as well.

More patience than me with stripping the roof. I'm just gonna wire brush around the edges of that tar shit and squirt POR15 everywhere

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Haha merged this in here, really need to add this thread to my sig

I still have nightmares over that roof, took soo long to get all that tar off, worth it though as allot of it had dried out and had rust forming behind it as it’s just bare clean steel under the tar. I also wanted to clean up around the roof rack mounts as some were starting to rust. The stuff under cross bracing is the killer, oh and the mess it makes :( I hear that upside down on a rotisserie and a fuck load of thinners and it’s not too bad. Will be installing some dynamat type stuff to stop it sounding like a bass drum inside the car

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Its one of those things KK you start attacking one job and it leads to another. In this case it was by far the best time to attack the rust and old dried out window sealant while the interior was out, the back windows were barely held in. Yea plan is ready for bafurst, should be easy enough. Idealy I'd like to be rolling it down to the 'Greazefest' hotrod car/culture show in August

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  • 4 weeks later...

Wow your getting in deep now, the perfectionist in you just has to keep digging doesn't it?

Are you planning on bringing this with you to NZ at all? Or is it just your OZ project?

You seem to be able to find massive support and sources etc from the US, are they easy to find or do you just spend a shit load of time digging around on the internet?

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Yea Dane mine looks good from the inside, I have no doubt there will be some rust in that seam, but I'll seal it up and forget about it :D I hate that foam shit they put between double skinned panels, once its old and dry its promotes rust I'm sure

Keegan If I have this car still when I head back to NZ I'll bring it, honestly it will be hard to leave here, I doubt I'd ever get paid like this in NZ. Parts for this car are tricky Buicks have very little support compared to Ford, Chev and Chrysler/Mopar stuff (unless its a Skylark). For engine stuff there is one company, TA performance and prices are pretty reasonable. I am lucky they even make headers for the 1970 full-size cars as they have a slightly different setup to everything else. As for other stuff its hit & miss the car is a GM 'B' body as I have said which is the same underpinnings as an impala so you get lucky with generic bits crossing over.

And you melt the lead out with a gas torch, ends up on the floor. Took a few weeks to strip the paint, door jambs sucked and yea I got super grubby. Still have acres to do though doors, hood, fenders & tailgate

The weather here was shit so no painting, attacked some serious rust though

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I used paint stripper first, top coat was Lacquer so it melted off and made a mess, use a wire brush on stubborn bits to help work the stripper in. The big flat panels then got the strip disk and the door jambs got wire wheeled to clean up the left over, the wire brush tends to smear stuff around so a thorough rub down with scotch-brite and wax & grease remover and it comes up nice and white ready for paint

I will write some shit up and add to the panel beating thread about paint stripping and epoxy primer as I go

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  • 2 weeks later...

Yea but POR15 is just a water cured urethane once cured all the silicone I can throw at it shouldn't react with it. I'm thinking as Sika is a single pack solvent cured product that the solvents lifted it (which they shouldnt!). Anyway Epoxy primer then a industrial 2k urethane with the sika inbetween the two will do the trick with no issues. Plus its 100x cheaper, I probably grinded $70 off the floor haha.

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I've heard of POR15 peeling off in sheets when the metal underneath is too smooth - it needs something gruff to key to..

So they recommend the metal ready acid to give the surface a microscopicly rough surface..

Why am I telling you this?? Pretty sure you already know..

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