mikuni Posted November 22, 2010 Share Posted November 22, 2010 Definitely blowies all round, that shit looks hot! Gutted about the job situation, progress on this was very interesting to watch. Hopefully something else comes along for you soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spanners Posted November 22, 2010 Author Share Posted November 22, 2010 Ive got enough money to finish it so all good! Im gonna hold you to that blowjob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted November 22, 2010 Share Posted November 22, 2010 Yum. Is that a custom manifold or one of Glenn's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spanners Posted November 24, 2010 Author Share Posted November 24, 2010 Custom as yo. Low profile etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanfels Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 Looking good dude! how much was all that work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spanners Posted December 10, 2010 Author Share Posted December 10, 2010 um as an example the d-shaft hoop cost me $13. I think all up including materials i have spent 2500 with him but thats including all sorts of shit, even shortening diff etc. He has done so much, I woulda been fucked without him Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanfels Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 sweet score! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 Dude... That is fucken yum. Manifold CNC'd? How much? Etc etc . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spanners Posted December 10, 2010 Author Share Posted December 10, 2010 Manifold was water jet cut to get rough shape and do the holes. After that the dude did it on his mill, not cnc though. To make the holes triangular like the TBs he just cut it all out with a die grinder or something. Its a perfect match which is good. The block of alloy plus WJ cutting was only 140 bucks. His work was more but i dont know how much. I would expect it was maybe 350-450 all up. I never bothered to ask as his bill was so reasonable that when he started breaking it down I just said shush and gave him moneys. I was a bit nervous about it being so slimline but thats just how its gotta be to make it fit. If I need more inlet length I will get 90mm trumpets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 Tiz sexy. Me likey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 What quads are you using? 20V Blacktop ones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spanners Posted December 10, 2010 Author Share Posted December 10, 2010 Yep blacktops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 Sweet, this is what I will be doing with mine (single vvti motor and fwd) How did you overcome the change in diameter of the inlets? ie blacktop at ~45dia or so and the 3sge inlets are larger (iirc?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spanners Posted December 10, 2010 Author Share Posted December 10, 2010 fwd Whaaaaaaat?!! Curse words! Umm to answer your question they arent too much larger, the holes in the manifold just taper outwards 2mm or whatever it is. Really wasnt a biggy. I dont know exact measurements sorry. I think more importantly you need to match the ridiculous shape of the throttle bodies. If you were building a super dooper race motor then you probably wouldnt have it taper outwards at all, but i really dont think it matters. Im sure that the dyno results will let me know if its all good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 ok sweet, so what diameter is the 'runner' in your adapter between the ITB's and head? (or at least what was it before tapered etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spanners Posted December 10, 2010 Author Share Posted December 10, 2010 I forgot. I would have to measure it. 48mm rings a bell but dont quote me on it. I will measure it when it comes off again in the next few days Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 dude that is looking slick ultra Is the one of the clutch slave a bracket that bolts to the booster holes and also around the firwallmod to strengthen? Also, silly question but who did the work?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted December 10, 2010 Share Posted December 10, 2010 He's done a bloody nice job, I like what he's done with the firewall end of the trans tunnel, Mine is still factory along the top edge which makes it a total arse to remove #5 and #6 spark plugs. My car had the same patch of rust under the battery bracket, it didn't take much to tidy it up. Do you reckon the rear strut bar will do much? You are still using the factory seats for the rear springs so I would have thought there would not be much pressure around the top of the shock mounts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spanners Posted December 10, 2010 Author Share Posted December 10, 2010 dude that is looking slick ultraIs the one of the clutch slave a bracket that bolts to the booster holes and also around the firwallmod to strengthen? Also, silly question but who did the work?? Yeah the firewall was really odd shaped and flimsy where I wanted to mount the clutch mcyl so that bracket eliminates any issues really. I had previously mounted the mcyl about 50mm lower directly into the firewall but that wasnt going to work well due to wrong pedal ratio etc etc. The guy who did the work is actually a family friend. Hes a fitter and turner by trade and a qualified welder, but basically he just tinkers at home when he isnt at work.. He has done a lot of awesome stuff in the past building all sorts of cool shit for race cars and bikes, everything is so shiny and home made. His workshop at home is bigger than his house! Mad tools, mills, lathes, welders etc. He asked me not to reveal his identity (stig?) as he doesnt want to do it for other people. He only took on this as he liked the idea and said that at least i wasnt building some "front wheel drive piece of shit". Every time I mention my friends fwd cars with big power he looks like he just saw a midget fucking an ugly dog. He's done a bloody nice job, I like what he's done with the firewall end of the trans tunnel, Mine is still factory along the top edge which makes it a total arse to remove #5 and #6 spark plugs. My car had the same patch of rust under the battery bracket, it didn't take much to tidy it up. Do you reckon the rear strut bar will do much? You are still using the factory seats for the rear springs so I would have thought there would not be much pressure around the top of the shock mounts. Rear strut brace is 62% because I wanted it there for bling bling, and 38% to hang harness off. I dont think it will make a world of difference but it cant hurt. I hear that starlets sometimes get a bit let down by sloppy rear ends (like elton john) so I thought I would do what I can while the car is in bits. Plus everything cost me so little to do that it was a no brainer really, better than paying 100's and 100's later on when I decided that i do need/want it there. That top bit of the firewall - there wasnt any choice. Did you see the photos that show how high the motor sits? It buzzes me out to see people with 20v conversions where the motor is like a foot lower. plus my sump is 1mm off the x member and the x member is spaced down 12mm. Bascially beams is tall. If I had a choice I wouldnt have touched the top lip - it has actually been a real cunt to get that bit looking right. I get the feeling that changing #5 and #6 spark plugs wont pose an issue for me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted December 21, 2010 Share Posted December 21, 2010 the x member is spaced down 12mm. I have been thinking about the spacing down of the cross-member, do you reckon there is any downside to it in regard to steering rack position and angle of the lower suspension ams.. This is going to be a pretty nice machine when it's finished.. Oh yeah, did you sell that turbo'd open top machine I liked the look of? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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