Ned Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 Was SOOOOOOO sweet seeing this on the track for the first time last Saturday! Glad i went to the club-k day in the end! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 will have a measure up on mine, how far i dropped the links from factory. you'll be surprised how much grip it'll gain. at drags i went from doing 2.1 60fts to 1.9. only change was dropping the bottom link a notch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted June 11, 2012 Author Share Posted June 11, 2012 ^^ That would be awesome thanks... I had a look at the early pages on your project thread for a bit of inspiration.. I reckon some laser cut flanges are on the cards for both the lower arm mounts and the shock mounts, what did you use on your car for the rear coil-overs? I was also thinking about the lowering of the diff end arm position and wondering if it is this to regain a horizontal line on a severely lowered car or is there more to it? (my car is not really all that low at present) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted June 11, 2012 Share Posted June 11, 2012 no probs. you probably seen this pic i dug up. blue bit is original kp mount. everything else ive added on, its not finished in that pic, there is another plate that wraps around the back to strengthen it up. green hole is original diff link hole. orange ones are the ones i use now. i usually have it set on the middle one. which is about 40mm lower than factory. the bottom one is about 65mm lower than stock. pretty much only use it for drags, as find it makes the ass end feel even more sloppy, than the usual kp sloppiness. but give alot more grip. haven't tried the top one tbh. holes are further forward than factory, to push the wheelbase out further, no other reason. yeh there is a bit more to it than just realigning after being lowered. but that comes into it also. if you cant be assed welding the case, T3 might do a bolt on kit for kp. they do for ae86. but good thing about doing it like above, with a range of holes. can test and see what works best for your setup. rear coil overs are from a ep82 starlet. 250lb springs if you got super keen under there, id be tempted to do a watts link or similar. should tighten it up alot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted June 12, 2012 Author Share Posted June 12, 2012 cheers for the explanation, I don't think i'll go down the same track of increasing wheelbase in my car, as it will only lead to moving the effective front / rear weight distribution further forward and it must be pretty nose heavy as it is... looking at your pictures i reckon i might (depending on shock eye widths) be able to make 4 large plates, 2 on each side to pick up the lower arm mounts and lower rear shock mounts too.. Will probably focus on the fuel system first though... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 Nice work on the filler relocation! It's all looking very good. Going to keep this car road legal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 Should be able to find a hinged number plate off another car that has it factory? seen a few and they are usually pretty low profile and sprung Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted July 7, 2012 Author Share Posted July 7, 2012 unsure about the road legal deal at this stage... probably not to be honest. Plate hinge - yeah HQ's and Mk1 cortinas come to mind, but no doubt there would be some american stuff too, possibly some of the Jeeps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted July 7, 2012 Share Posted July 7, 2012 Valiants have them too from memory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camo_78 Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 i know im a few weeks behind,but XD falcons have hinged rear plates with a spring to hold them up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted August 6, 2012 Author Share Posted August 6, 2012 ^^ cheers, I have found some bits to make my own spring loaded hinges.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted August 6, 2012 Share Posted August 6, 2012 The crinkle looks nice. Approved. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted August 10, 2012 Share Posted August 10, 2012 You are a brave man for welding to cast hear any cracking afterwards? probs fine thou Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjrstar Posted August 12, 2012 Author Share Posted August 12, 2012 ^ It's only a small bracket for routing the handbrake cables, i would not have considered welding suspension uprights etc... Bogangeof suggested I whack it with a hammer - and it if doesn't fall off it's then safe to say it's strong enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 sounds legit. toyota cast steel seems to weld pretty good anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 I got curious after reading that, I even searched for the reference he was making (in the project thread), read it, thought, hrmm, went out to the garage, beat the hamster till he was turning his wheel good and fast then turned the welder on and then struck a bead up on a rib on a g series diff, seemed to arc nicely, and puddle just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted August 13, 2012 Share Posted August 13, 2012 The problem is that it doesn't take tension forces very well (ie cracks not deforms), which is what happens when it cools. To be fair, the only cast I have (tried to) welded has not been automotive (unsure if the composition would differ?), and was a bigger scale. So it's probably just me being paranoid Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted August 14, 2012 Share Posted August 14, 2012 There's a difference between cast iron and cast steel too. I know a rally driver who has cut and welded parts of a cast hub multiple times (to get the bump steer right) and has never had one crack or break. It's all about how you weld it and making sure to V into the material a long way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted August 14, 2012 Share Posted August 14, 2012 ^this. sounds like you may have welded cast iron? cast steel is what you will find on most car stuff, is more like mild steel than cast iron, but still is not all created the same. which will be why there is a blanket, "no." to certing anything welded to a casting . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted August 17, 2012 Share Posted August 17, 2012 Oh, indeed you may be right, I was doing cast iron, not cast steel. It's all the same/my humblest apologies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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