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any tricks for prolonging syncro life?


RUNAMUCK

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Striaght cut gearboxes don't even use synchro's I wonder how they get away with that?

Brute force/finesse, straight cut means no (or much reduced) lateral thrust on the gears themselves, thus bearing's and other parts can handle more abuse, that's my rudimentary understanding anyhow, i think there are some far more mech minded people can elaborate on/correct me.

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I was told not to use a gear oil with a rating higher than GL4 the higher ratings have additives that can affect the soft metal parts of an older gearbox (brass syncros etc.).

Not sure how important this is but the oil is cheaper so win/win

the GL rating is a load/viscosity rating

GL4 is what is in most if not all gearbox's

GL5 is hard out shit, and for some mega heavy duty stuff, like some diff's and hypoid gears and some gearbox's

bit more here

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gear_oil

cant keep up with all the different oil codes now days, its a mind fuck

sorry for the hi jack

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I have been toying with using some redline oil in it. If it doesn't work though I'll be straining it through a coffee filter and using it after the gearbox changed, that shit costs the bloody earth!

Sit in the other side of the car will prolong it mate!

I get awful nervous when I'm not holding the steering wheel in my hot little hands. TBH, I don't know how anyone can ride with me. My hair would turn white if I every had to ride with me driving. :lol:

cheers for the link Flawless, I'l scope it out.

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this may go against alot of pples advice here, but i now the tractor Multi purpose oil ( which can be used in both engine and trans nasty nasty think horrible shit ) can be aplyed to old tired gearbox's

dissclaimer

" dont blam me if your gearbox pops its self " i know alot of my customers use this oil in 80% of stuff on the farm with no complants, more so in stuff that has done huge hours with worns syncro rings

curb side warranty

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just learn to drive the gearbox correctly you shouldnt lose any time in the shift if your driving it properly , if you think it takes too long to change then find a closer ratio gbox, you can put as many additives as you want in there but the gear ratios are still x apart and nothing is going to get the shift quicker really.

if learn how to use siad gearbox you should never run out of synchros

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put a better gearbox in it, Datsun boxes are as weak as piss.

many of the Datsun racers i know used modified Toyota T-50's with a Dellow?? bellhousing.

The 63a dogleg certinly aint weak as piss. People only use the toyta ones beacuse they can't find the box I have. (They go for $2k in OZ)

Try getting Synchros from a 4 speed box, i was told they were the same

Yeah I've heard that too. I'm hoping the cones aren't too worn too.

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Any shortcuts to extending the life of your gearbox(s) with your style of driving

Short answer - No

Thicker oil will help space out worn bits in a tired gearbox. However this can put pressure on other bits as it doesn't squish as well. Most additives work on this. But the trade off with the quieter glooper oil is slower shifts. Thinner oil will be better if you want quicker shifts, but will cause more noise and less give. Which is why it is thicker than say engine oil.´

A syncro acts as a sort of clutch to the gears. Shifting with more force will bend shift forks or wear out the syncro as it will have to speed things up quicker.

Tougher gearboxes are just that, hardened and better quality metals with a larger surface area. Machining tolerances are better.

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thought about linking a lower rpm revlimiter to a switch on the clutch? or just a kill switch so when the clutch is depressed it kills the spark end engine revs will drop slightly while maintaining WOT. might take a fraction of the stress off the gearbox during drag shifts, could make them last 2 or 3 hours longer :lol:

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i put that redline mt90 oil in my sr20 g/box hoping it would help, but it didn't change a thing, but the box was probally too worn already, good way to waste $120 :rolleyes:

yea i tired it in my l200 gearbox hoping it would help my shifting but no luck, i think its more to help shock loading etc and breakages rather than wear/worn parts

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