Sisu

The banger rally cars here in Finland, the Fiat 600s, they cut a Punto 6 speed to an ATV Diff, lathe it flat, then bolt a bell housing to it. Instead of trying to find a finite supply of 60's parts. They also use Quad/side by side CVs too.

Interested in your gearbox combination. i ran a Fiat 750/1000 gearbox in my 500 which had a 1000cc BMW flat twin. I destroyed 3 fiat 500 gearboxes with my half a VW long block. The hope would have been a BMW 700 coupe gearbox as even with the VW top end to make it a fake 595 the Fiat 500/126 gearbox was as strong as chocolate. You were right to go for a flat 6, the fake Puch 695 that I built handled better than a Fiat as the weight is at axle height. I found the VW 1200 gearbox to big and geared to high, I nosed around a Alfasud, Jowett and did not try a Subaru or Imp as there were none at my local wreckers at the time. It looks like the right option with a Subaru gearbox, I like that you are not averse to trying different paths as it sounds cool.

Don't give up on the Galaxie. Winter is always a tough time to be working on it.

How's things going

I couldn't find the tolerances - it is in a late 50's VW repair manual. But this has a step by step of what you are doing here and this is where I found it. here In case you have any other issues.

Have a look here http://www.vintagebus.com/ under the Parts section of a kombi page 255 if you need more details or other parts I will try and dig out the rebuilding section - such as tolerances and stuff.

Yeah sorry for the brain dump. Yes I know the fuel filter next to the dizi is not the best location, point taken. You can pick up fuel line and small hose clamps from Repco or somewhere similar like this to be on the safe side Just make sure the lengths are correct and not touching anything - like the broken throttle return spring that goes thru the fan shroud, you can replace that when you take the generator out and remove the one strung off the air filter. If you want an owners manual check out : John Muir - How to keep your VW alive $40 from whitcoulls here It is written in a good vibe and explains alot of things in an easy to understand way. Such as "when you start the car give it time to warm up, roll a cigarette and get it drawing well before you head off."

The basics - pre '67 Beetles use a 77amp 6V battery. No it isn't rare as there were millions of beetles before 1963 all with 6V Technically the rare one would be a 85amp 12V option code M197. The Good - 1963 has narrow indicator turn signals on the front which are a one year only. -The body colour is a NZ only color, it was a dulux color. So that is sort of rare anywhere else in the world. But take something like inside of the glovebox lid to get it matched. The Bad - Getting back to the 6V thing as this has alot of emotional baggage. Look at it this way, nothing you are changing from 6V-12V changes the car. By that I mean it is all unboltable, so you can stick it in an apple box and she can stick it in the attic. Living with a 6V car is a pain in the arse. You are more likely to get rear ended because the brake lights are so dim they look like side lights and she has no 3rd brake light. These guys have shit that could help that looks period.here One of the other aspects is that your headlights/indicators are not bright so punters pull out infront of you as they can't see you. If you have a normal car following you, fuck knows what xenons would do now? But you get a shadow just infront of you cast by your car It is like driving with your sidelights on. The Ugly - Creature comforts, you break down and you reduce the chance of a Shell/BP having a part you need being 6V. The radio that she has is a 6v 70's aftermarket one not a early 60's one. Also the 2 mount AM/LW 8ft aerial on the drivers side isn't a VW only thing. Check out something like http://www.classiccarstereo.co.uk/ for an old style look, but with digital fm tuning and ipod compatiblity. So something else in the apple box. Going by the newish fuel pump I would suggest that the fuel tank is rusty. Fit an inline clear fuel filter in place of the old crusty fibre flex pipe. The upper pipe next to the distributor. When she has it painted you can fit the fuel filter underneath the fuel tank out of sight if she wants. But you want to get the car up and running. The main things that will strand her or stop her enjoying a classic are electrical problems and fuel contamination. They do a Bosch 009 dizzy that eliminates the condenser/points/vacuum advance but still looks the same.

I know 4x4 punters are religous about diff locks and winches. The size of your manhood being proportional to the size of your tyres and your lift kit. But this is even funnier considering the context. The Hummer in the Dakar is 2wd and Rear engined like an old VW Beetle. The 4wd cars in the Dakar are not allowed tyre adjustment from in the car. The 2wd cars are. The 4wd can get out and do it themselves. The reason this man is pissed off is that the 4wd BMW Minis complained that as the air coming from the in car tyre deflation/inflation was going into the manifold after the air restrictor that he was getting a perfomance advantage. This got him disqualified from stage 9. They allowed him back after he plugged the hole in the manifold and vented the pipe into the engine bay. He then beat the 4WD Minis by 20 minutes in the next stage. pVFdgttin6E

Check the valves when cold. Unless the valves are properly seated then they don't allow the heat to go into the head. Firing order is 1-4-3-2. Left hand side far cylinder (if you are looking at the engine from the back) is number 3. The one under the oil cooler. Unless you have a doghouse fanshroud, so called because it is out of the airflow of the fanshroud. This cylinder is the weakest in the engine. There could be a deeper problem with your cylinder head or burnt valve. But this is the easiest to check. To start to off on the right direction here are the vintage training videos complete with bacon frying in the background. EpH7VftH3_I xm4OmiVH2J0 XOxxS1EMphU

I was shown this using the fingers on my hands. Put them palm up. The fingers on your left hand you put together, the fingers represents the size of the opening. Then you spread open your fingers on your right hand, the fingers represent the size of the core, the gap between your fingers are the same volume as your fingers on your left hand. This means that the flow isn't impeaded. There are more mathematical explanations and equations to work it out, but this is how it works in layman terms.

If it is your Escort then you could do this sort of style. In the 70's it was all Cigarettes and Oil.

I have seen a couple of custom water to air intercoolers. This normally consists of an inline radiator in between the turbo and the manifold. The fluid is pumped around by an electrical waterpump to a radiator somewhere else more convienent with space which was sometimes underneath or even at the back of the car in the difuser. With an Anglia you have that big guppy mouth behind the grill for the radiator and nothing else. You could run a pair of side mounted intercoolers, only consideration is that you would need to cut holes in the radiator duct in front and perpendicular to the radiator with the hot air exit into the front wheel well. As long as the radiator for the engine and the intercoolers are sealed(placed against the duct) then the air will be forced into the radiators evenly, air like water takes the path of least resistance. With the front grill/trim on it wouldn't be visable from the outside of the car. This example is off an Audi. They need to reduce the front overhang, but have a similar problem with space.

I ended up rebuilding the 48 dells as they were as shagged as your mum. The shafts and butterflies wear and the brass bits were damaged from 30 years of adjusting.

No worries, it will turn out OK. Being able to find shit on the net or make a presentation using photoshop isn't as good as being able to see a solution in your head.

I thought that míght be more useful as that was the look you were going for - charger on the left and turbo on the right. I have seen the turbo behind the supercharger as pictured which is a Toyota 4agze 20v I think. But this is quite toasty. Either way you plumb it is up to you.

The early Nissan March Superturbo (Micra K11 The square one) ran a supercharger/turbo on the 993cc engine. The Nissan Micra/March was an early working production car using this system, if a little small to transfer. The Lancia S4 was a race car, so although admirable was experimental so to speak = $$$$$ But this is a diagram of the VW setup to help things. They run some diesel TDI pressure valves which handle the boost and are off the shelf. The main bit was the control valves move slow enough to allow a smooth transition for the turbo to spool up. Otherwise you get a dip or flatspot. The clutch control for the supercharger was a VAG part that was used to switch A/C on and off. It shuts it off when the rpm/boost is up.

Those are really cool. Has anyone considered making the plenium/airbox out of a clear plastic instead? Acrylic would seem the winner, generally has by far the best ballance of properties, unless you use very specialised, expensive, modified grades of polycarbonate. Standard polycarbonate, also has very poor resistance to some very common automotive fluids, ie the aromatic hydrocarbons found in virtually all modern fuels. Which you would get in an airbox. If you use acrylic drape forming is the process of heating a sheet of plastic until it sags and then draping it over a form shaped like the finished article. You could make a mold of the alloy one you have made. Then use these 2 halfs to make an inner mold. so you have this sort of thing (0) You use a heat resistant material such as a Hobby plaster you get at craft shops and you need either a frame or clamp the edges of the acrylic sheet as it will shrink and then stick it in the sandwich while it is being heated to 215 initially to get out the bubbles then to the mold temp of around 180 deg C.

This is what the Germans did. The front suspension on the 911. It is easy to lower or raise the suspension. The bars are splined to stop them rotating. You just unbolt the front bolts, pull them off and rotate them a spline or 2. No cutting required This is it put on a VW Kombi

The car alarm fitted to my work car is a Defa POS 400. Normally I would pull the feckin thing out or have a poke around, however I don't get paid to repair the cars. The microwave sensor seems overly sensitive to people walking past or near it. The alarm just goes off. My previous work van that I inherited had a kill switch under the bonnet that the guys who fit them put as the alarm drained the battery overnight. So this might give some context to what I am dealing with. My dodgy sollution involves tin foil and duct tape. I am going to seal the microwave sensor from the outside world. This means when I change the van or give it to someone else they can't point the finger if there is a problem. Any suggestions?

Any shortcuts to extending the life of your gearbox(s) with your style of driving Short answer - No Thicker oil will help space out worn bits in a tired gearbox. However this can put pressure on other bits as it doesn't squish as well. Most additives work on this. But the trade off with the quieter glooper oil is slower shifts. Thinner oil will be better if you want quicker shifts, but will cause more noise and less give. Which is why it is thicker than say engine oil.´ A syncro acts as a sort of clutch to the gears. Shifting with more force will bend shift forks or wear out the syncro as it will have to speed things up quicker. Tougher gearboxes are just that, hardened and better quality metals with a larger surface area. Machining tolerances are better.

Pity they don't do a carbon fibre version or look of the fake bumpers. Then you would need a set of these http://www.riverscarbon.com/carbon-fiber-race-wheels/