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engine swap ideas for hillman hunter


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oh man im so keen...so heres what ilneed (correct me if im wrong)...

supercharger (sc14)

SU carb (upgrade current one to 1.75" or 2" if i can find one)

plate to mount supercharger to engine (where alternater is or elsewhere)

piping to run from carb to charger and then from charger to inlet manifold

that sound right?

also, would be keen on putting in a boost gauge so i can keep an eye on things, so where would be the best place to tap into the setup?

cheers

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supercharger (sc14)

SU carb (upgrade current one to 1.75" or 2" if i can find one)

plate to mount supercharger to engine (where alternater is or elsewhere)

piping to run from carb to charger and then from charger to inlet manifold

that sound right?

You forgot the pulley to drive it :wink:

also, would be keen on putting in a boost gauge so i can keep an eye on things, so where would be the best place to tap into the setup?

anywhere after the blower.

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Just a little side note, have you done any research on the motors boost handling abilities? I don't mean to be a wet blanket on this big landslide of progress but I think 1725's blow head gaskets quite regularly, even while in standard form. I'm not sure whether feeding the poor wee thing up on boost is a good idea?

One thing about pintos is that they are pretty strong and seem to hold together well, even when boosted. I'll give them that. :)

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haha u said wet blanket...lol

yeh i can see where ur coming from and yes ive herd they blow gaskets easily too, although ive neva blowen one ......touch wood. but yeh ur right, it will probably just poo its self. but ill ask around tho, hopefully some has tried it before. also ive just had a long hard stare at the engine bay, and it would be a tight fit....i think il need to do a bit more background research before i jump in hed first lol

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they only blow if you put the cast head gasket into alloy or vice versa. Otherwise its just the same as any other engine. Id say you would have more problems with oil leaks lol. unless you do the timing cover seal conversion. and replace the stupid side plate gasket. and the rocker cover. and.... etc...

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they only blow if you put the cast head gasket into alloy or vice versa. Otherwise its just the same as any other engine. Id say you would have more problems with oil leaks lol. unless you do the timing cover seal conversion. and replace the stupid side plate gasket. and the rocker cover. and.... etc...

hmmmm u rekon it would just oooze everywhere if it was under boost?

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Just do it and work out the problems afterwards, if it blows head gaskets you may need to get a steel or copper? head gasket or o-ring the block, oil should be sweet just run a catch can and new gaskets.

Oh, and don't forget the most important part.. tuning it all. You'll need to either lock the dizzy or modify it to retard under boost, just a random 2inch SU will not do very well without jetting correctly. If you don't do this then you'll have bigger problems than head gaskets and oil leaks.

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Just a little side note, have you done any research on the motors boost handling abilities? I don't mean to be a wet blanket on this big landslide of progress but I think 1725's blow head gaskets quite regularly, even while in standard form. I'm not sure whether feeding the poor wee thing up on boost is a good idea?

When I did this 10 years ago with the pinto I got told the same things. :rolleyes:

I also had a guy tell me that it was impossible to turbo a pinto, he changed his mind when I took him outside and showed him it.

You can fix most gaskit issues with a copper gaskit. I never used one tho and I ran the cheepy repco head gaskits. If you use a mono torque which I wouldn't recomend re torque them as you would a normal gaskit.

One thing about pintos is that they are pretty strong and seem to hold together well, even when boosted. I'll give them that. :)

Most 70's engine should be able to stand 6psi. What's different between the pinto and the 1725?

Do they have 10 head bolts?

Why do they blow head gaskits?

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Just do it and work out the problems afterwards, if it blows head gaskets you may need to get a steel or copper? head gasket or o-ring the block, oil should be sweet just run a catch can and new gaskets.

Unless it's a really shit narrow design the std gaskit is a good cheap starting point. Persoanlly I'd run it and see if it blows then go to a copper one like you say.

Oh, and don't forget the most important part.. tuning it all. You'll need to either lock the dizzy or modify it to retard under boost,

You'd be surprised what you can get away with with a low boost setup. 6 psi isn't a lot. I imported a vac advance/boost retard from a 2.3L turbo pinto and it made my setup soggy so I took it off.... I still have it some where in the garage.

just a random 2inch SU will not do very well without jetting correctly.

Why not?

Yes the starting needle might not be bang on but theres a lot if needles to choose from.

For arguments sake let say he gets an SU from a jag that can flow enough air for 150 hp. The carb doesn't care what moving the air it cares about flow. SU's have needles that control the amount of fuel introduced to the air flow as the slider lifts more fuel is introduced. An SU from a jag is an easy starting point and he buy needles to tweak the AFR, hey you gotta start some where!

From my experiance they are way more flexable than a carb with jets, as long as you don't max them out by running one that is too small you can get away with a lot. I think this is why they were a really common carb for suck through setup.

Either way you are right, a roll on the dyno to get the AFR sweet is well worth the money.

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they only blow if you put the cast head gasket into alloy or vice versa. Otherwise its just the same as any other engine. Id say you would have more problems with oil leaks lol. unless you do the timing cover seal conversion. and replace the stupid side plate gasket. and the rocker cover. and.... etc...

hmmmm u rekon it would just oooze everywhere if it was under boost?

Boost shouldn't be getting out of the cylinders.

Also if it did 6psi of boost vs 40+ psi of oil pressure... whats going to push what around?

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I've been plotting the same setup for my avenger. Ya can most probably bore the block out a tad and chuck some off-the-shelf toyota jobbie pistons in as well. Dunno if they need any mods to fit onto the conrods but thats what I've got in my engine. I think they are K series pistons, but I'm not too sure. They also may need a bit of machining to avoid sconning a valve (like mine did :? )

Other then that hunt down a better cam or get one made up, port the head a bit and maybe even chuck in some bigger valves and you'll be sweet

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hey guys thats for all the replies, especially nismo.capri, youve cleared alot of things up. just want to say im not after a beast of an engine, and i dont reeeealy see the point of spending alot of money on what i have now, but like nismo said, all going to plan, a supercharger is basically cheap bolt on power. at the end of the day its neva going to go warp speed, but if a could get a decnt kick from some boost for what $400-500 bucks them id be more than happy. i know it would make sense to build up then egine first, ie cam, pistons, values, ported head etc etc the list goes on, and so does the cost!! if i spend 500 buks on boosting it and it tunrs to custard, then so be it, i could sell the charger for what i pay for it anyway, and it would be a good experience. i mean id rather drive round in a supercharged hillman hunter (you know any one with one??....exactly) for an extra 500 buks, then spend thousands on getting the engine rebuild. the car cost me 400 buks so im not goin to spend thousands. so if i boost it and it blows up, itl be good fun.

anyways enough rant for now, nismo.capri, you dont happern to have some measurements for the sc14 do u? just want to size it up in the engine bay and see what gets in the way.

cheers again for all ur help.

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It's going to cost much more than $500 unless you have access to tools, equipment and free materials etc.

u rekon?

250-300 for superchager

i can get a plate made up to mount it, and im sure it wount cost 250 bucks for some piping.

wont be far off 500

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