dylan

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3 hours ago, SOHC said:

Would someone in auckland be able to paint the tank and guards for my Suzuki? I dont want anything flash, guards are new and tank is bare steal

Send them down and i'll have a hack at them lol.

Nah seriously I can help ya out, but I don't really do "I don't want anything flash" lol

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28 minutes ago, Bellicose said:

Send them down and i'll have a hack at them lol.

Nah seriously I can help ya out, but I don't really do "I don't want anything flash" lol

Roughly what would it cost to do a tank in yellow with some clear over the decals?  

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2 hours ago, Ghostchips said:

Depends what paint you want used.  I have a spray gun and you've seen the cars i've painted.

2k with a clear coat

 

I am going to clear the Volvo with a roller soon

 

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How careful do I need to be with paint stripper and seams? I am planning on paint stripping (clean off with water), treating with phosphoric acid (wash off with water), rubbing back with scotch-brite/prepsol then painting with 2K epoxy primer. I was reading some threads  online that recommended maintaining min 20mm from any seams to stop the stripper tracking.

Provided I wash the stripper off carefully with water, is this something I need to be concerned with? How about with the phosphoric acid, do I need to do similar with this?

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I would be wary, tape them up or something and then use mechanical means to remove rust and paint around the seams. You are using the easy/good method for at home paint removal, works great for big flat areas but usually you need to throw the grinder or sand blaster etc into the mix for some areas you cant really wash away the stripper and acid.

I have cracked open seals where phosphoric acid has been used and as you cannot really flush it out you get this white powder build up which seems to promote more rust as the acid is never neutralised.

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Can you prep and seam seal the areas you'll be working on? Capillary action between layers means shit will get drawn in further than you'll ever be able to clean out. Might be able to get seam sealer that is solvent resistance and so would stand up to the rest of your work. You'd still need to be super careful around the seams though.

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1 hour ago, Bling said:

Can you prep and seam seal the areas you'll be working on? Capillary action between layers means shit will get drawn in further than you'll ever be able to clean out. Might be able to get seam sealer that is solvent resistance and so would stand up to the rest of your work. You'd still need to be super careful around the seams though.

I'm starting off with prepping and painting the bonnet. It's easy to get to and will hopefully be easy enough to spot if there is any returning rust. I'm planning on carefully taping off the seam at the front giving myself around 20mm to the seam.

Is seam sealer paint stripper resistant? I have some turgostrip from RJP, it's pretty powerful stuff.

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I haven't looked into it TBH, but the seam sealers should say what they will withstand. The likes of brake fluid and the likes, they seem pretty hardy but you'd want to check all specs. It was mainly as a precaution to stop any chance of stripper getting in there, or water for that matter. If you can exclude that 20mm area from being affected that is probably the best bet.

Is the current paint that bad you need to paint strip all areas? I'm prepping a few areas, but if the paint holds after giving it a good going over, i'm going to leave it as is. 

99% of my rust repairs have been due to moisture getting between panels in seams. So i'll just be encasing all mine (either epoxy primer or fish oil (forget the non fish option name currently) as I repair them and not treating seams with any chemicals / acids at all. The oil will be for all areas I can't get into.

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2 part stuff will handle it pretty well, but not really the order of things to seal it up first. Just don't get any shit in there, not rocket science.

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On 02/12/2019 at 11:42, SOHC said:

is it possible to 2K clear over enamel ?

If the clear is put on before the enamel is cured, otherwise it will need keying up and the scratches will be visible under the clear. You can usually get a nice gloss off the gun so shouldn't need clear.

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What's the go to for painting suspension parts, diffs ect? Its only for a 4wd but I've got everything apart so thought I'd give a clean up and a blackening

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At work we use lecher black epoxy. Sticks to anything. Parts still needs to be cleaned and prepped properly. 

Fairly durable finish. But scratches easily. 

For a really durable finish we top coat with glasurit 2k black . Often semigloss or satin.

But just a couple good coats of lechler black epoxy would be more than sufficient for a 4x4. Has a semi gloss finish

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On 26/01/2020 at 06:13, JustHarry said:

At work we use lecher black epoxy. Sticks to anything. Parts still needs to be cleaned and prepped properly. 

Fairly durable finish. But scratches easily. 

For a really durable finish we top coat with glasurit 2k black . Often semigloss or satin.

But just a couple good coats of lechler black epoxy would be more than sufficient for a 4x4. Has a semi gloss finish

Do you somehow clean up the place of painting, prepare it? I mean, using emery or some other way to level the surface? As far as I know, to apply epoxy is not enough to simply degrease. Many still upload photos before painting on Instagram, such as, look, followers, how easy it is, but in fact it takes a long time to “dance” with this matter. UPD: Enrage these "artists" who buy Instagram followers and do not represent anything, do everything for the sake of money, this is not cool. Sorry - the cry of the soul.
 

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Does anyone know where to buy something like this locally?

https://www.wurthusa.com/Tools/Chemical-Delivery-Tools/Spray-Tools/EMPTY-CAN-FOR-SCHUTZ-GUN-(US-THREADS)/p/08911101

image.png.c31d38a488e2e69e66b95b63b22c2579.png

Just an empty can that screw on to an underseal/Schutz gun. Wanting to try spraying some roll on underseal that is significantly cheaper but seems to be very similar to Raptor liner.

TIA

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