crazy_rich Posted March 13, 2008 Share Posted March 13, 2008 I'm fairly sure it only got its flash red paint job in 97, was white before then, i'll have a rummage through the old paper work though, could be wrong, would be funny as if we had some OS history goin on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowgan Posted March 13, 2008 Share Posted March 13, 2008 real dark gunmetal with a bit of blue in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treggo Posted March 13, 2008 Share Posted March 13, 2008 real dark gunmetal with a bit of blue in it. Nah thats the colour my capri's going! paint it jet black Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy_rich Posted March 13, 2008 Share Posted March 13, 2008 nah, cant be fucked with it anymore, she'll be goin thru cert patches, paint it later yellow or something stupid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alistair Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 Looks mean maori. Dont know if I looked properly but stock ecu or link etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted July 29, 2008 Share Posted July 29, 2008 looking good rich you have done some nice work there mate. dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy_rich Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 cheers Dan, and I'm using a linkplus G1 ecu, trying to get my head around the wiring over the last few days, best way to learn eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esky 73 Posted August 2, 2008 Share Posted August 2, 2008 looking good man, i got a real soft spot for the ol capris, my last mk1 was painted a greeny/silver colour, fiat silver jade was the name i think, your booster fits nice i got the same set up in the esky, keep it up man, hope to see it when i down your way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PJClevoCapri Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 Well dude i gotta hand it to ya you've got a long way further than i have and you certainly arent cuttn any corners and charcoal would be chur keep up the quality craftsmanship dude itll pay off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted November 25, 2008 Share Posted November 25, 2008 PJClevoCapri are you the guy with the mk1 running a 351 and 9" diff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PJClevoCapri Posted December 3, 2008 Share Posted December 3, 2008 Yea man thats me alright will do a new post soon things have changed a little progress has been slow lately got another shell etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 That sump is sexy, I like it. Good work indeed. Car is coming togther real well, going to be a weapon when going! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 rad. yeah sump looks choice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 yeh nice work mate now just pull finger and get it finished dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted January 6, 2009 Share Posted January 6, 2009 Mean tech looking sump good fab skills Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 hay rich just thought i would point out that....... if your going to move a shock mount then you may as well turret it and if your going to turret it then you may as well 4 link the bitch. lol dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anglia4 Posted April 19, 2010 Share Posted April 19, 2010 i learnt today from my clever race car mechanic why they put one shock in front and one shock behind the diff, its something they started doing in the late 60's. He has a 68 camaro with both in front but the models after that have one in front and one behind, we've got a 68 mustang with both in front and the models after that have one in front one behind. Its to reduce axle tramp, the axle torques up against the two shocks and it takes alot of that rotational movement out of it. Just FYI anyway. wicked project though dude, i always wanted a v8 capri Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crazy_rich Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 yeah, i guess that'd explain it, rather cheap way of fixing the problem thats for sure. got any advice on 4 linking Dan? been doing a bit of research today, my main concerns are -having enough room for the top arms as I want to retain a useable rear seat -being able to use urethane rod ends yet still having adjustable length arms as I do not want it to be excessively noisy, and you know what nz roads are like. -being able to engineer a turret of sufficient strength to support the forces of the spring without a roll cage. - would using the front leaf mounts in the body to mount the lower arms work?, I also have upper mounts where the swaybar/anti tramp rods did mount, though I think that would make the top arms too short. I'm not really open to the idea of a triangulated 4-link / satchel design as I'm going to run a panhard rod anyway, and dont like their binding tendencies. running adjustable height coilovers in the rear is an obvious choice, but due to the front tyre being so close to my strut, and my unwillingless to want to ruin the look of the car with flares, I dont think i'll get them in the front easily, which makes putting them in the back seem rather ridiculous. just throwing a few ideas around at the moment, thinking along the lines that if I have to put some new turrets in they may as well be strong enough to support coilovers if I decided to use them at a later date. at the end of the day it is just a street car, but installing a more predictable rear end cant be a bad thing. its just a case of how far do I go? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted April 20, 2010 Share Posted April 20, 2010 dont bother rich if you want to keep the rear seat and still have it ride nice i would just leave the rear set up as it is just new bushes and you can still turret it if you want. just get the turret kit from palmside $175 i think and then you can run a good set of shocks. and the turret kit just welds to you wheel tub and is still good with out a cage and if you are worried juat make your self a strut brace for between them dan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NaN Posted May 17, 2010 Share Posted May 17, 2010 hey rich, not sure if you remember me or not, I also have a 1uz/fe capri, and I've got a g series toyota diff to go into it. I've got a fairly similar problem too you, 'which of the billions of different ways do I do this' I think i've got a solution, which deals with the wheel clearance, and shock tower weakness, issues. but it's pretty hard to explain without drawing a pic, I'll try anyway. Ignore the shock towers, just put a seal on them and leave em alone. run the four forward links, two off the where the springs used to attach, and two off where the sway bar used to attach. create a hang down system for the center locator bars. then put a dowel through rear chassis rail, each side, behind the diff, and a bracket on the other side off the rail (inside). run a QA1 type shock off that, and link it up to a bracket which is 'behind' the diff housing, and 'slightly' below the diff, on the back of it, on each side. around 200mm in from the end of the housing. Should give a much better ride than the other alternatives. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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