esky 73

go for the new link, do away with the afm, easy to program, and cheap for what you getI will be fitting one after talking to a tuner mate of mine, he also re maps std ecu's and reckons the new link is the shit

yeah seems to easy really but there you go! next up 4 link rear!

ok, thermostat in, the stat was a standard jobby, 85 dergrees, my temp gauge must be fairly accurate cos the temp rose up to 85 then came back to 70, drove from west to penrose on the motorway just cruising and it got up to 90, gave it a squirt for a bit 4000rpmish and the temp came back to 70-75, so i guess this would indicate not enough airflow? my escort has'nt had the holes drilled in the front panel like some others, but a definate improvement with the stat, thanks again guys! and also the mixture is all good if anything its a bit rich

thanks , got a thermostat today so will fire that back in, i have checked the timing as well and thats fine, so that leaves not enough airflow or stat or both!

the ca= all good just a few minor teething problems! ca18det=good fun at taupo track day

thanks guys, had'nt thought about the timing issue, and no thermostat, the rad hoses are all good, no kinks at all in the top hose and a very gradual bend in the bottom hose, the temps i quoted are just at normall road speeds 100kph (ish) start to give it a hiding especially in the taller gears and it goes over a hundy, i have'nt kept going to see just how high it gets as i get scared over a hundy degrees, thanks again, i got some things to look at now

ca18det, cheap, common, go hard as a stock motor but easy to get power out of

all i have done is brake into the rear line into cylinder then back out again, can be a bit of a pain to bleed up without a pressure bleeder, we are sponsored by redline so i will see if they can do a sharp price if your interested

can anyone tell me how to check the efficiency of a waterpump, i am having over heating issues with the ca, i have done the usuall things, flush, waterwetter, brand new ali rad, new electric fan but still cant stop it getting hot, 80 to 100 degrees, the rad is a aftermarket ca18det. when i slow down at lights or stop the temp will come down slightly but motorway driving and it creeps up, i am a bit lost!

D2 hydrollic handbrake, redline performance, easy to fit and work well, i have fitted one to each of our drift cars and was sceptical at first but they have proved mean, not bad price either

yeah mate in aucks, will see what shizzl wants to do

hey man, pm me, i have a 2l and box, 4 and a 5spd i am not going to use ( sticking with the ca18det) they dont owe me fuck all and i am heading to christchurch for the drifting in a couple of weeks, so if you are keen i can even get them to chch for you

starter all good? earths and battery terminals clean and well connected?

if you look at my project thread you can see what i did on the front, as above, good fit, tack in, hammer and dolly, what happens is when you weld it expands then as it cools it shrinks, problem is it shrinks more than it expands creating distorsion, theres probably a million ways to go about it but what worked for me was low amps, and spot welding, cooling as i went and hammering out, hope that is some help,

sounds like the drive plate in back to front

less life more flow for me, would it be a option or possible to use heavier inserts on the valve guides to give it some more life? Thanks! What would you go for with a ported head, modified guide bosses and less high lift flow or max flow and short life valve guides?

good to follow this thread, nice work on the ports, maybe i should just send my head to you!

yeah i am going to build it to cope with a hiding, i bought the escort as a trackday car so it has to be reliable, head work forged pistons, steel rods and i am going to use a old dry sump set up off one of my old formular ford motors, i would like it to be as quick as it is with the ca18det but this may not be realistic, i'm not going to build it half assed, do it once and do it right ( hopefully!)

pinto build is starting! any info on finding bits would be a good help, or any pitfalls to avoid, i have a couple of books, Des Hammill, vizard, and have built engines in the past but never a pinto, so all feedback welcome, cheers

mite be a bit late, but you can check out my seat mounts, all cert'd by neil fraser, simple and easy,

how long have your injectors been unused? blowing them with a compressor wont clean them, i had a similar prob with my cossie and the injectors got sent away for cleaning and came back mint

should'nt make to much difference, a factory mazda batty has the inlet and outlet on the bottom

no room under the dash for a van master cylinder? i think billy bunters had remote boosters,

there is a guy up here who has loads of experience with ca's and he has gotten that sort of power ( 200-220 ) with only a vr4 injector upgrade and more boost and reflashed std computor, ask for mark at on the limit motorsport if you got any quieries, he da man with nissans, he has his own hub dyno and emulator so re chips computors all the time,

i have used the exedy clutes in a few different cars and have had no dramas with them, the only thing i would do is to make sure your flywheel has been machined and probably the most important thing to do is run them in nicely! we used the heavy duty clutches not the puk type. I dont know what sort of power you are hoping to get but my ca18det uses a standard clutch and so far no dramas at all and i give mine a bit of a hiding!