eskynut

11 Waller Tce Vehicle Certification Services Ltd ph 365 4777 http://yellow.co.nz/companies/Vehicle-C ... _1685.html

I've got a KP60 rack and KE70 steering arms in my KE25. The lower arms have to get lengthened about 40mm though. There are a few guys that have done this mod on the club-k forum (http://www.club-k.co.nz) and also on the toymods forum (http://www.toymods.net)

Cheers guys. Thats what I was after. Yeah always interested in "sharp deals"

Cheers for that. Yup very similar to what I'm doing. So long as it looks sweet and operates correctly I shud be ok. Cheers for your help guys

I got the hand book and it says nothing about my concerns ie it has to be pro made. It just states that if it has a hyd h/b it requires an authority card. And to get that it has to go through scrutineering by a msnz authorised scrutineer. The guy I spoke to told me it had to be pro made but I can't find anything to back up what he says. You have copied stuff from msnz and you are correct but it still doesn't specify if the hyd h/b is to be pro made. I also thought that if properly made and it works well there should be no problem. I have been searching the web for designs I could use,and as drift-monkey was interested in a diy setup I thought he might like to see the pictures.

This guy has built his own hyd h/b. http://fookseung.fotki.com/automotive-1 ... ake_setup/ this is another made up unit http://datsun1200.com/modules/myalbum/p ... p?lid=4381 this another set up I found. Similar to what I'm making http://www.gartrac.com/store/erol.html# ... 0%26sa%3DN

I got a 5/8" m/c to suit an external resivour. It has one inlet and one outlet fitting. Cheap as from Repco. $20 if I remember correctly. I'm now trying to make up a bracket to mount the m/c. Then modify the std h/b lever with a pivot for the push rod and then make up a lock rod to be able to lock the h/b on for parking. I'll try to add a pic soon as I figure out how to. Computers not my thing.

Wee black box is just a noise suppessor (shudn't need it), round terminal shud be from the coil (+), and the plug with the spade terminal shud be an ignition feed (12v).

perhaps instead of waiting to hear something you should buy a motorsport manuel before you start building a racecar that way your 1/3 the cost one dosent turn into 1/3 more cost when you have to bin it and get one that meets the requirements v It already is a built up rally car. I'm just doing a full rebuild and upgrading a few things while I'm at it. All the stuff I'm doing to it is 'by the book'. But I'll need to renew my authority card when I've finished as it's about to run out from memory. Just after thoughts from people how they've done things to hopefully make my job easier. I'll just carry on then.

I've been trying to find out the exact regs for it but only have found something in scrutineers check list that asks if it has been pro made. Can't find anything to say it has to be a pro made item. So dunno where the guy I was talking to got the idea. I'll just make a real good job of it and will see what haps. I'm going to check out a few cars to get some ideas about pivot/fulcrum points etc to get lever action correct. I've seen 1 where the m/c was mounted on an angle to help with the action of the pushrod and the brake pipes mounted sideways (apparently helps when bleeding).

Yeah I was starting to make my own but when I talked to the scrutineer about what i needed to do I was told I couldn't make 1 as it had to be a professionally made unit. I suppose if it was made sweet it could pass as a pro model. I'm wondering though if he is mistaken with FIA specs not clubman. I may just keep on making mine and see what happens. I'm using a 5/8" cylinder (no resivour type) with threaded in and out ports.

I'm going to fit a hydraulic handbrake into my rally car and for it to pass scrutineering it has to be a professionally made unit. Can anyone recommend a particular one to use? I have seen 1 on t/m at one stage but it's no longer listed (or I can't find it). Would prefer a horizontal set up.

The idea behind idling fast at 3000rpm then normal idle for at least 3mins is to reset ecu if battery has been removed. If this not done it can make engine stall. If it's running rough more than likely its done something else. It doesn't take much to damage a valve face.

Check out thus guys esky. Powered by a turboed cbr1000rr engine. http://www.situne.no/ He's also got a few vids on youtube.

Cheers guys. What started it all was I need to convert the clutch back to hydraulic (t50 orig hyd, but this has been cable operated) and to do this I really need to put in a pedal box as there is no room to fit m/c on the firewall. So to do this I may as well fit a complete setup and I may as well at the same time set it up with adjustable balance bar and hydraulic h/brake and bias valve. So I also thought I could, if it was simply a bolt-on thing, I could replace calipers and rotors. I will prob just leave w/clyinders and calipers and just do pedal box for now. There's a awesome dude here in chch, Les Hunter, who is helping me at the mo sort out pedal box and correct size m/c's. Just got to build a frame to mount pedal box under steering column and it'll be sweet. Here's Les's website. He really knows his stuff!!! http://www.leshunterauto.com/home.htm