Crazy Rich's V8 Capri

[NaN]

forget to mention, the certifier wants me to put a 6mm mild steel plate to support the shock bracket from the top (just to be on the safe side) in the boot. He said around 50-70mm wide x 150mm long ought to about do it. needs to welded in place on top of the steel in the boot. I was going to pretty much double that to spread the load.

[NaN]

Hey dude, had a look over your latest post, here's a few thoughts.

Finishing off the wiring before bolting on the intake and slotting it back in the hole to fire it up.

Still a few niggly things to do in the engine bay & fuel lines to run first though.

> my experiences here come up with a few hard on lessons.

-I dont like the idea of running the lines through the cabin, even though it's legal.

-Steel lines, (i.e. truck brake lines) are a pain to work with.

-Hyrolic line clamps do the job of attaching the lines to the shell, but only clamp two lines, so miss out the rear brake line.

- apparently, it's illegal to weld/tack steel brake/fuel lines into a frame, they have to be clamped, in plastic or rubber (surrounded by steel/alloy).

- for cert, (for me anyway), fuel lines have to covered by a steel (.9mm min) or alloy (.9mm min) protector (stone protection).

- for a 1uz-fe, 8mm internal diameter lines are fine (@50psi fuel pressure @ the pumps).

- I put my pump(s), and lines on the drivers side.

- putting your pumps and lines on the drivers side, means that where the lines run up into the engine bay gets far to close to the headers.

- it's easier, to run the lines along the edge of g/box tunnel, bend around outwards at the rear towards the drivers side, and then up into the rear 'hump'.

- make the lines come into the boot, _after_ the hump in the boot, if the join leaks, that way it will leak into the wheel well, and not behind and underneath the rear seat (had that happen once).

- use alloy lines, the cool better, and are easier to work with.

- dont use braided line, it's shit. it leaks, it's weak, and after 3-4 years under a car looks bad.

Has anyone bolted an alternator off a smaller toyota on a 1uz? was thinking maybe a corona or similar, mainly because mines rooted and an ls400 alternator is most certainly overkill for my capri with its wind up windows and lack of anything modern & electrical.

> how come you think it's rooted ? did you get the wiring on it right ?

>the 1uz alt puts out 120amps ... give you a nice strong spark.

> I put mine down on the steering side, I think that was where the a/c was. just make sure the belts line up. I'll think the 1uz alternator is a pretty sweet unit, it'll take the rev's and power output. But that said, you can use any old alternator on it.

>

[crazy_rich]

Yeah theres no way I'd run fuel lines inside the cabin. I'm just running some 3/8 bundy tube up the rail kit, clamped every 300mm with p clamps. Brake line will most likely be run inside, along the tunnel. A standy 1uz will run mint on 5/16 line, theres just not much available aftermarket in that size, as its not usually an upgrade. The fuel lines would be in, However Im stuck waiting for my leaves to come back so I can see where the diff will sit to determine where to run them.

Ive had a look at the alternator, and will most likely just use the lexus one, It'll need rebuilt though, and a bracket made to tension the belt as it will be the only accessory.

[NaN]

Yeah theres no way I'd run fuel lines inside the cabin. I'm just running some 3/8 bundy tube up the rail kit, clamped every 300mm with p clamps.

I tried something similar first time round, but because my certifier wants the lines to be covered I really needed the hydrolic line clamps because when the flat head hex bolt is run through from the inside (like a furniture bolt), it provides a bolt out the top of the clamp that I can use as a mount point for the cover. The advantage of the line clamps is that I although they are kinda bulky, I can replace the plastice core with one that has a bigger diameter from 8-20mm (I think) later on if I want to run huge lines, no drama. They look like the below pic, just imagine the bolt coming through the over way, with a flat head, and a decent 7-8mm protruding after a nut, perfect for the cover to attach onto.

Brake line will most likely be run inside, along the tunnel.

be safer for the line to tucked in against where the sill meets the floor. just a thought, that is unless you mean up inside the tunnel, under the car.

A standy 1uz will run mint on 5/16 line, theres just not much available aftermarket in that size, as its not usually an upgrade.

Try Enzed, they seem to sell that kind of stuff, .. they say no pretty fast but those f__kers have it just press em a bit, , ... if you can alloy line is the way to go.

The fuel lines would be in, However Im stuck waiting for my leaves to come back so I can see where the diff will sit to determine where to run them.

want a pic of how I did it ? I havent don the cover yet but I can easily show you how the lines run 'thus far'

Ive had a look at the alternator, and will most likely just use the lexus one, It'll need rebuilt though, and a bracket made to tension the belt as it will be the only accessory.

Thats exactly what I did, on the drivers side, off a bracket, with a 'cog' type tensioner. Most folks would kill for a alternator that puts out the kind of grunt that one does, .. lets face it, most put out around 80amps, and aftermarket ones are 400-500 (@120-ish amps), it's a sweet unit.

[NVMPAJ]

What a great project , looks like you've done all the hard work to. So should fetch some good dollars

[crazy_rich]

Yeah it is a shame to be in this position. It should go together quite easily once its painted. Unfortunately I just don't see myself having the time.

[NVMPAJ]

Just saw your listing on TM , great price really for all those toys and all the hard work you've done . Good luck with the sale ........wish I had the spare cash