cletus Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 another possibility would be cut your springs till they are the right height then get the ends reshaped by a springmaker. cutting springs increases the spring rate (stiffness) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camo_78 Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 hey cletus,ive also got a question regarding springs,although in my cortina not a ex lancer,lol.how much droop in the suspension do i need to have for cert???the rear shocks are borderline too short for the height the car is so am just wondering about droop tolerances??and the other question is,cortinas have ridiculously big rear bumpstops(3-4 inches tall ).if i buy some of the low profile nolathane ones and bolt them in via a hole drilled through original mount(og bump is slip fit over a spigot),is that ok for cert??or do i need to find a suitable alternative? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 again it depends on how the car drives and there is no set minimum amount in any book, but i usually work on 20-30mm or thereabouts as a minimum amount, any less than that and the shocks are the wrong length or spring rate too high this sort of stuff may vary between certifiers due to diffrent opinions as for your bumpstops, you can use those short ones , just make sure the bumpstop limits travel before anything else hits, ie the driveshaft on the floor, or the diff head on the floor etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
camo_78 Posted March 27, 2012 Share Posted March 27, 2012 sweet,cheers for that.will need to make a small mod to diff tunnel to allow room for the driveshaft uni joint at the diff end as it currently just rubs the floor when the rear end has weight in it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D1RTY6 Posted April 8, 2012 Share Posted April 8, 2012 Hi, just a question regarding wheel adaptors after reading this http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/stand ... _Tyres.pdf Still cant determine the Bolt on type can be certified? Apologises for my noobness ha basically what im after is 5x114.3 converted to 4x114.3 something like similar to this http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-par ... 079650.htm but 5 to 4 rather than 4 to 5 thanks in advance Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 yes bolt on adaptors can be certed. going from 5 to 4 studs will probably be an issue, the rule book doesnt specifically say you cant do it. however there is a rule where if you fit a heavier engine into a car you should upgrade studs to the same as the donor vehicle. before you buy them i would suggest going on lvvta.org.nz, there is a q+a section there, the guys that run it are the technical advisors at lvvta. i would think that going from 5 to 4 studs for cosmetic reasons would be not allowed What sort of car is it and what mods have you done? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D1RTY6 Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 yes bolt on adaptors can be certed. going from 5 to 4 studs will probably be an issue, the rule book doesnt specifically say you cant do it. however there is a rule where if you fit a heavier engine into a car you should upgrade studs to the same as the donor vehicle. before you buy them i would suggest going on lvvta.org.nz, there is a q+a section there, the guys that run it are the technical advisors at lvvta. i would think that going from 5 to 4 studs for cosmetic reasons would be not allowed What sort of car is it and what mods have you done? Car is a 1978 Nissan Gloria (build thread should be in sig) No mods apart from lowering and down plan on any in the near future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 9, 2012 Share Posted April 9, 2012 also bear in mind if you want to go to something like a 15xwide rim its difficult to get a tyre size that fits on the car thats legal for certing anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cute wee gem Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 What's the cost for a cert these days? seem to hear anything between 300 and 600? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
civic_zr Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 I know this has been talked about before, but can't find the post. BC Suspension, heard it can't be certified... why? Reason I'm asking. British First gen Civic club are getting a custom run of BC Gold shocks done for 74-79 Civics. There is nothing else on the market, and no other option for aftermarket suspension. So obviously I'm really keen to get something to lower/adjust camber/damper but don't want to fork out the cash only do find I can't use it here in NZ. Cletus... is there any recommendations I can make to the factory to make the suspension legal in NZ, the club is corresponding with them no regarding final details. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 the only BC stuff that cant be certed at the moment is the ones that have a casting welded to the strut tube, this is not just BC but any brand that is made that way. the only applications that i have seen where this is an issue, is ae85/86 front struts where the strut tube is welded to the spindle, and late model honda struts where the cast steering arm is welded to the strut. otherwise there is no problem with them, BC are a very good quality brand from my experience Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
civic_zr Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 Thanks for the quick reply... So normal mounting brackets like seen here on the rear are fine? They are welded, but not to the strut tube, rather a separate sleeve that threads to the shock. Just a final clarification before I fork out mega bucks for shipping ex-uk? Are these ok? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 15, 2012 Share Posted April 15, 2012 yep looks fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidian Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 Hey Clint, can you help with a couple of issues please? - Recommend a certifier in Centralish Auck? (Car is in Roskill and not rolling at the moment, I'm not clued up as to the 'Certifier categories' but looking at engine/trany swap, wheels, suspension, possibly steering, seats etc, the lot) - How do certifiers work/charge if callouts are involved to check out the work as opposed to working form emails? Ie. is it common to just charge the cert fee or are there callout fees? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 if you change the steering at all, you will need a 1D category certifier, you could try Mark Stokes (i work for him) Neil Fraser, or Lance Walsh. I dont know about other certifiers but we do a preliminary inspection for under construction vehicles with major mods, we charge a part fee which comes out of the total cert cost. ie if its a $600 cert we might charge 200 the first time and 400 to finish it off the reason for that is some people will get us out a couple of times and then use someone else to finish it and we end up out of pocket cert cost varies a bit depending on the level of mods, i start at about 440 incl gst for trade customers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidian Posted April 17, 2012 Share Posted April 17, 2012 Part charge up front is very reasonable and Mark Stokes is a name that's been around for ages, I will get in touch with him. thanks for that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barnz.NZ Posted April 18, 2012 Share Posted April 18, 2012 Hello there quick question about re-drilling steel wheels.i have some 15x8 5x114 steels that I am planning on re-drilling to 4 x114 ie drilling 3 more holes and using one of the existing holes in the pcd.is this legal? As long as there locating on the hub? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 you couldnt drill a steel wheel unless it has a flat center. usually they have raised bits where the nut sits Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 just got back from certifier training. new rule- re camber, max is now original manufacturers specs, plus half a degree. thats going to be difficult........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted April 19, 2012 Share Posted April 19, 2012 wat? that doesn't make alot of sense considering the cert is for modifications? /ridiculous rules life in all areas/industries etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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