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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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My dataplate is missing, how can I go about getting another one? Car has no VIN number, chassis code is visible on the firewall, car has live plates and is on hold, the dataplate was removed for rust repair on firewall by PO and subsequently lost

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Just has chassis number and vehicle weights on it... I can just make out a manufacturers part number on the bottom. So buy blank, fill it out, gotcha 

....best way to fill them out nicely? It looks to be very lightly etched, not stamped

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On 11/08/2021 at 14:42, slopez said:

Hi guys, question about body mods, I know a chap who has modified a wagon by fitting the tray, b-pillar and roof off of a ute (thereby making his wagon a ute).  Its an old valiant so it came out with both wagons and ute on the same platform, I can't see anything about this sort of thing in the hobby car manual, is it possible to do this and then cert it? ie. hes done most of the work but its never seen a certifier, will it all need redoing if it were to be certed?
Cheers

Its do able, whether it needs redoing or not will depend on how well it was done in the first place, will need a certifier to have a look at it to see if it needs any further strengthening 

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What's the rules surrounding repair certs when rust is involved? 

Does it have to be from a panel shop, or could it be from someone who has qualifications/tickets? 

I've only ever had to get one before, the panelbeaters simply wrote that the repair had been properly done with welded in steel plate etc. 

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On 14/08/2021 at 19:51, 87creepin said:

What's the rules surrounding repair certs when rust is involved? 

Does it have to be from a panel shop, or could it be from someone who has qualifications/tickets? 

I've only ever had to get one before, the panelbeaters simply wrote that the repair had been properly done with welded in steel plate etc. 

For a WOF, or for revin as per Runamuck?

 

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8 minutes ago, 87creepin said:

@Nominal just warrants, cars already registered here. 

Shouldn't need an official repair certification then as I understand things, just what ever your wof place is satisfied with.

 

If not, they have this option

https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vehicle-structure/structure-incl2.-frontal-impact#note3

image.png.11ec5837fb95fb7f96512345b0c57f5b.png

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Hey guys,

I'm after a bit of clarification on the driveshaft loop thickness requirements. Been trolling this for a while but can't really find anything to confirm.

The lvvta states "Material Specifications:
A drive-shaft safety-loop should be made from either flat-section material at least 50 mm x 5 mm, or tubular-
section material of at least 22 mm x 3 mm."

Now what I want too know is can I cut, roll and weld some 3mm sheet to the required diameter and this is fine?

Also can the mounting brackets be 3mm material as long as they have the required contact area or do they have to be 5mm?

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9 minutes ago, Escortn said:

Hey guys,

I'm after a bit of clarification on the driveshaft loop thickness requirements. Been trolling this for a while but can't really find anything to confirm.

The lvvta states "Material Specifications:
A drive-shaft safety-loop should be made from either flat-section material at least 50 mm x 5 mm, or tubular-
section material of at least 22 mm x 3 mm."

Now what I want too know is can I cut, roll and weld some 3mm sheet to the required diameter and this is fine?

Also can the mounting brackets be 3mm material as long as they have the required contact area or do they have to be 5mm?

Sketch of what you are thinking? 

If it's like the pic below then it needs to be 50x5mm

image.png.44568538fe7e2d9399fb09658e25cc82.png

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5 minutes ago, Nominal said:

Sketch of what you are thinking? 

If it's like the pic below then it needs to be 50x5mm

image.png.44568538fe7e2d9399fb09658e25cc82.png

Pretty much that pic but instead of using 5mm wall thickness linepipe I'd roll some 3mm to the same diameter and weld the ends together, would that count as "tubular section"

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