tortron Posted August 13 Report Share Posted August 13 Oh that's easy, expecially if it's a slow day (as they don't always grab from top of the pile) I just got 1 plate, might leave the others till next time lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted August 13 Report Share Posted August 13 My dataplate is missing, how can I go about getting another one? Car has no VIN number, chassis code is visible on the firewall, car has live plates and is on hold, the dataplate was removed for rust repair on firewall by PO and subsequently lost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted August 13 Report Share Posted August 13 Data plate as in the factory one with deets about trim, box, engine? Blank one from Ebay and fill it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gibbon Posted August 13 Report Share Posted August 13 Just has chassis number and vehicle weights on it... I can just make out a manufacturers part number on the bottom. So buy blank, fill it out, gotcha ....best way to fill them out nicely? It looks to be very lightly etched, not stamped Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted August 13 Report Share Posted August 13 Laser etch/engrave would be good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted August 14 Report Share Posted August 14 On 11/08/2021 at 14:42, slopez said: Hi guys, question about body mods, I know a chap who has modified a wagon by fitting the tray, b-pillar and roof off of a ute (thereby making his wagon a ute). Its an old valiant so it came out with both wagons and ute on the same platform, I can't see anything about this sort of thing in the hobby car manual, is it possible to do this and then cert it? ie. hes done most of the work but its never seen a certifier, will it all need redoing if it were to be certed? Cheers Its do able, whether it needs redoing or not will depend on how well it was done in the first place, will need a certifier to have a look at it to see if it needs any further strengthening 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted August 14 Report Share Posted August 14 does this imply that someone bought a scooter new in nz, then exported it, then brought it back? RTW on a 50cc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87creepin Posted August 14 Report Share Posted August 14 What's the rules surrounding repair certs when rust is involved? Does it have to be from a panel shop, or could it be from someone who has qualifications/tickets? I've only ever had to get one before, the panelbeaters simply wrote that the repair had been properly done with welded in steel plate etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted August 15 Report Share Posted August 15 If it's for a revin, then it needs to be signed off by an approved repair certifyer. Kiss $500 good bye. (At least) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted August 15 Report Share Posted August 15 On 14/08/2021 at 19:51, 87creepin said: What's the rules surrounding repair certs when rust is involved? Does it have to be from a panel shop, or could it be from someone who has qualifications/tickets? I've only ever had to get one before, the panelbeaters simply wrote that the repair had been properly done with welded in steel plate etc. For a WOF, or for revin as per Runamuck? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
87creepin Posted August 16 Report Share Posted August 16 @Nominal just warrants, cars already registered here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted August 16 Report Share Posted August 16 8 minutes ago, 87creepin said: @Nominal just warrants, cars already registered here. Shouldn't need an official repair certification then as I understand things, just what ever your wof place is satisfied with. If not, they have this option https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof/general/vehicle-structure/structure-incl2.-frontal-impact#note3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustHarry Posted August 16 Report Share Posted August 16 42 minutes ago, 87creepin said: @Nominal just warrants, cars already registered here. Often pictures of the repair during stages and pre paint is more than enough to show it hasnt just been boged up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escortn Posted August 16 Report Share Posted August 16 Hey guys, I'm after a bit of clarification on the driveshaft loop thickness requirements. Been trolling this for a while but can't really find anything to confirm. The lvvta states "Material Specifications: A drive-shaft safety-loop should be made from either flat-section material at least 50 mm x 5 mm, or tubular- section material of at least 22 mm x 3 mm." Now what I want too know is can I cut, roll and weld some 3mm sheet to the required diameter and this is fine? Also can the mounting brackets be 3mm material as long as they have the required contact area or do they have to be 5mm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted August 16 Report Share Posted August 16 9 minutes ago, Escortn said: Hey guys, I'm after a bit of clarification on the driveshaft loop thickness requirements. Been trolling this for a while but can't really find anything to confirm. The lvvta states "Material Specifications: A drive-shaft safety-loop should be made from either flat-section material at least 50 mm x 5 mm, or tubular- section material of at least 22 mm x 3 mm." Now what I want too know is can I cut, roll and weld some 3mm sheet to the required diameter and this is fine? Also can the mounting brackets be 3mm material as long as they have the required contact area or do they have to be 5mm? Sketch of what you are thinking? If it's like the pic below then it needs to be 50x5mm 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escortn Posted August 16 Report Share Posted August 16 5 minutes ago, Nominal said: Sketch of what you are thinking? If it's like the pic below then it needs to be 50x5mm Pretty much that pic but instead of using 5mm wall thickness linepipe I'd roll some 3mm to the same diameter and weld the ends together, would that count as "tubular section" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datlow Posted August 16 Report Share Posted August 16 That’s still flat bar Tubular would I imagine mean as in heavy wall tube steel ie 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escortn Posted August 16 Report Share Posted August 16 4 minutes ago, datlow said: That’s still flat bar Tubular would I imagine mean as in heavy wall tube steel ie Ahhhhhhh yes this makes sense now. Legend Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted August 18 Report Share Posted August 18 What's the deal with factory quad headlights in a car made in 1971. Can I have all four doing DIP and all four doing High beam? Or does it have to be only two on DIP and four on High beam? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AllTorque Posted August 18 Report Share Posted August 18 You can have one pair of dipped and two pair of high beam. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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