Rookie Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 Cert and WOF are different. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 cuts & shortened struts = ok if done correctly then? Unless you have a cert for them then no they are not OK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanfels Posted September 6, 2012 Share Posted September 6, 2012 Oh i see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 7, 2012 Share Posted September 7, 2012 hmmmmm, soooo 'Ive just bought 14ft of that expensive as shit XRP black braid line, does this mean I cant run it all under the car? If no then I'm guessing it cant run in the car either? and the third question.. will any of that matter if my cars going to have a Motorsport NZ Authority Card? you can run braided line right up the car i do remember something somewhere about a maximum amount of flexible hose like what kk mentioned, i think that may be an nzdra or similar rule. i personally would use hardline where possible, its cheaper and you only have to replace a small amount of hose when its perished instead of heaps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 7, 2012 Share Posted September 7, 2012 http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplement ... eshold.pdf here is the list of things that you can do WITHOUT a cert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 7, 2012 Share Posted September 7, 2012 exhaust requirements and wording as to where it comes out in the first part of this http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards ... ssions.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch xD Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Hi everybody, Im having problems with understanding with how to get a cert with cut springs im in Tauranga and have talked to both certifiers here about compressing or cutting my springs (1987 falcon xf sedan) and certing them and they both spazzed out when i mentioned cut springs for a cert, i only want to trim a little bit (like half a coil or so) up the front because its already quite a tightly wound spring (the lowest cobra spring) and i dont think it could be compressed much or it would be pretty much fully compressed. The rear should be fine to compress but just the front! ive looked into drop spindles which id love but at close to 2grand ill pass lol. But yeah i see all you guys on here with certs for cut springs and just wondering how you went about it? Cheers mitch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 Coil spring modifications 2.3(16) Coil springs fitted to low volume vehicles must not be modified for the purpose of changing the vehicle’s ride height unless either: (a) the spring is modified by a recognised spring manufacturer, and the configuration of the modified spring ends match the end configuration of the original spring; or ( the spring: (i) fitted to the vehicle in its original configuration had plain unground ends; and (ii) no heat is used during the modification process. http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Suspension_Systems.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
durty Posted September 12, 2012 Share Posted September 12, 2012 so its okay if you get a proper spring place to cut it then reshape the ends Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 13, 2012 Share Posted September 13, 2012 if your springs look like this then they can usually be cut as the end is plain not tapered to a flat end. the spring seat is designed to take a spring like this if your spring is like this it cant be cut unless its modified by a spring specialist to flatten the bottom coil like durty mentioned. on a falcon, be careful going any lower than a set of aftermarket springs, they usually dont have much travel anyway, and the shock gets close to bottoming out, and the upper balljoint can bind up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitch xD Posted September 16, 2012 Share Posted September 16, 2012 okay thanks guys, yeah only one end is flattened so should be fine, i will talk to certifier, he thinks i can go about 20mm more untill ill start having ball joint problems etc and i have shortened shocks all round. hopefully he lets me cut them because i couldnt find anyone locally that will 'professionally' cut them. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 Hey Clint, What thickness would an adjustable camber top plate that was made from steel need to be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 depends on how big the strut top hole is, id make it from 5mm minimum to be on the safe side. there isnt a minimum size in a book or anything. have seen a few cracked ones in cars that have a big strut top eg subarus, they are usually 5-6mm, but aluminium Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 Aluminium would be nice, but it's too expensive. And I have a demon hook up for laser cutting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 17, 2012 Share Posted September 17, 2012 steel is a much more manly material anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted September 18, 2012 Share Posted September 18, 2012 "Safety in steel from foot to wheel!" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRWEST Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 Is chassis wrapping certifiable/able to pass a vin? What are the criteria it must fit within to pass? Does it need a repair/ticketed welder to have done it,. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 22, 2012 Share Posted September 22, 2012 depends if it has been done in a "tradesmanlike manner" and the welding is acceptable. ie if it looks shitty, then probably not. doesnt have to have been done by a ticketed welder if its strengthening what was already there. would definetly need lvv cert as a repair cert only covers repairs back to standard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRWEST Posted September 23, 2012 Share Posted September 23, 2012 Might be debatable if its up to tradesman manner, guess i need to get vinner to look at it before i decide further...If hes happy then itl be ok i guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M Night Shamalayan Posted September 23, 2012 Share Posted September 23, 2012 Trying to mount seats in my car. The 'reputable' aftermarket rails that i have bought are garbage and: A) sit too high won't let me sit far back enough in my car. If i eventually want to cert it anyway, can i make my own seat rails out of 3mm steel, in the same fashion as the brackets on my side mounted racetech seat? I'll be using the OEM mounting points in the car, but the rails will now just be made out of steel plate measuring approx 500mm x 60mm rather than the aftermarket ones i have with their bird shit welds. Car will most likely have an authority card by the time im ready to cert, so i'm not worrying about sliders at this stage (and it's a two seater anyway) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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