shizzl Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 Also, is it legal to completely remove the inner guards like that one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kp60nick Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 (edited) 2 hours ago, shizzl said: @cletus after your opinion as you’ll be getting this project eventually , whenever it’s done. So I need to get this ute lower than what it’s maxed out with the balljoint, I’ve been told to do a pie cut and reinforce it etc. these pics are of a 1st gen b1600 , bagged and pie cut uppers. what I need to know is what documentation do I need to support this mod? NDT report only? these arms sit completely flat standard, so you can judge how much it needs to drop overall to sort the binding. i also not the bump stop on the bottom arm is completely toast in those pics. what is the expected minimum for these? I do plan to retain using a bump stop for max lift travel too, I’m sure it’s wise to not over inflate bags and max out bjs etc the opposite way too. always open to suggestions and tips. also going to dig into the C notch and 4 link when I’m back from Japan. Similar to @kp60nick set up, although I think my arms are slightly shorter. I’m not aiming for massive travel change. Ride height at 100mm, slam and lift of “enough”. Using 8” travel bags. solid advice is rewarded in beers/hugs/high 5s/fist bumps/east coast waves Check out the hobby manual page 175 chapter 6.54.2 it touches on this. 2 hours ago, shizzl said: Also, is it legal to completely remove the inner guards like that one? I cant remember where in the hobby manual exactly it was but I'm pretty sure all four wheels need to be covered. It said something like hard lid over tray is expected. I'll keep looking for that. Edit: I found its chapter 6.54.3 lol Edited January 31 by kp60nick Missing words Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 Does the bonnet count ? Haha all good looks at the manual, but as I’ve found by experience it’s always best to get confirmation from the certifier for their opinion. 1 says yes, the next says no. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 Yeah Nah 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXFORD Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 On pre frontal impact utes you can remove the rear tubs as long as you have a hardlid, and can remove front tubs as long as it has a bonnet. Wheel tubs are not classed as structural on a pre-frontal full chassis vehicle unless there has been a rule change recently I'm not aware of. However, some certifiers may want to see a larger/higher tub put back in, or some form of reinforcement. Only a small percentage of minitrucks in Nz have had new front tubs fitted after bagging. Most people just leave it open. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 Cheers Matt, that one that got sent to me didn’t have the majority of its front tubs and was road legal, so had me scratching my head with so many conflicting opinions out there. have spoken with Tim from shoresfab about doing the pie cut. Just need a yes or no from a certifier to proceed. will start with a spare set of arms I have to get the initial angle right. and retain the correct castor angle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXFORD Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 Regarding the pie-cutting issue... that looks like Wiremu's B1600 which Mat at The Drop Shop originally bagged. He always did upper arms like that and back when I worked there they used to pass cert, but theu won't these days because of the welding. Nowadays and for the past 10 years at least, modified suspension arms need to be Tig welded, not Mig'd. I think you will have a hard time getting a yes or no from Clint or any certifier over pictures like that because of how little they deal with that kind of mod these days. But the general idea is whats required. If it were me, I would just do whats needed, like open up the centres for bag clearance like in your pics, pie-cut them just enough to your desired tyre size (+5-10mm incase of uneven ground) do all the necessary reinforcement, then when you are closer to the point of getting it legal, submit pics/ measurements/Ndt report etc to Lvvta for Design Approval. That way you can continue with the rest of bag/shock mounting etc. If they are a complete fail at Design Approval time, then the only option will be fabricated tube arms, which isn't really too big of a job amyway. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RXFORD Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 Actually, I looked at pics again, is that Andrews B1600? Doesn't look clean enough to be Wiremu's. Either way TDS did both of them originally but I'm pretty sure the B2K truck isn't and never will be legal without alot of rework. Andrews truck is legal though but was certed wayyyy back in the day. I think if he recerts it for the engine conversion those arms might get picked up and fail because of welding. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 Can do pie cut if it's tig welded, NDT, and has a fish plate over the cut Other options - find a ball joint that is flat/not angled the wrong way for your application Or a pair of tapered spacers to angle the balljoint. Have had a couple of people do this to correct balljoint angle 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 Thanks Clint @cletus that’s exactly the info I need to move forward. so making a tapered “wedge” spacer between the upper A arm and balljoint is ok? would be better than cutting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 And on that age of truck, you can remove the front inner guards. Been there done that though and it's a cunt of an idea, mud, water, dirt and rocks get everywhere 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 Something like this You need 2 spacers per side so that the bolts aren't getting bent You will need to limit travel in the up direction to stop the joint binding the other way, this will likely mean you won't have to cut of the top arm for bag clearance, as it probably won't go that far 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 If you're looking at that pic as a bit of a how-to, the shocks are too far inboard as well, and won't be doing much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shizzl Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 Yeah I figured that aswell, I’d aim to have the shocks spaced out as far as possible to the factory offset to the chassis. the spacer idea seems far easier to accomplish with less risk of error and less welds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j3tt Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 If I fit a custom bumper to my car do I have to put in some front indicators? Would I get a wof with just side and rear indicators? Cheers 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 52 minutes ago, j3tt said: If I fit a custom bumper to my car do I have to put in some front indicators? Would I get a wof with just side and rear indicators? Cheers Yeah nah, they don't need to be on the bumper but you need front facing lamps 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 I'd replace them just so that people will be less likely to have an accident with me. Making it harder for people to know your intentions is just a bad idea to me. They won't give way if they don't notice your little side blinker going in full sunlight etc. People on the road are bad enough as it is. So making it obvious where you are heading is handy lol. No idea what your car is either, but if it's new enough to have frontal impact shit, then maybe that would be an issue too. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 3 hours ago, Nominal said: Yeah nah, they don't need to be on the bumper but you need front facing lamps Thats class LE - a trike. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 12 minutes ago, KKtrips said: Thats class LE - a trike. Lol, I didn't even think of that. I note that you know though. I suppose it would be this section then that would need to complied with. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokin'joe Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 On 01/02/2024 at 21:41, shizzl said: Yeah I figured that aswell, I’d aim to have the shocks spaced out as far as possible to the factory offset to the chassis. the spacer idea seems far easier to accomplish with less risk of error and less welds Paul, is it only upper balljoint that is binding ? if so, can you raise the inner, upper mounting point to flatten the the upper arm ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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