cletus Posted January 7 Share Posted January 7 They have to be secured to the hub with a single countersunk bolt, wheels have to locate on the center spigot, wheel bolts screw in 7.5 turns , can be certified 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted January 7 Share Posted January 7 Sweet, I'm just missing the countersunk bolt. Thinking of drilling it in line with one of the 2 bolts that hold the disc to the hub and using a longer bolt through the spacer and disc into the hub, if that'll pass/ Centers are snug on the spigot and the wheel bolts are at least 10 turns so that should be golden. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted January 7 Share Posted January 7 Yup that's ideal if you can line those holes up 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted January 9 Share Posted January 9 Can I remove material from this ali brake caliper in the casting area marked and still pass cert? The square fitting on the new flexi line fouls 2-3mm. Tempted to just file all the way across but machining would leave a nicer finish. If machining maybe take the whole lot off flush with fitting face? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted January 9 Share Posted January 9 I can't answer your question. But can you get an adaptor that fits in that area, then fasten your hose on to that? Just spit-balling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted January 9 Share Posted January 9 I guess but not sure it would save much effort or be much more appealing to certifier. I guess worst case I could get a new line made with a round end to better suit caliper but not heaps keen($) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted January 9 Share Posted January 9 Nah that's cool. Was just wondering as on my calipers you screw a fitting in first then the swivel nut of the braided line connects to that. Just figured if yours was similar you could swap a different fitting in. I tended to find 2-3 options for each problem I came across when building my car. So always thinking outside of the box. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted January 9 Share Posted January 9 Yeah thanks man thinking again about it maybe that would be the best way after all if I can find an off the shelf male/female kinda thing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted January 9 Share Posted January 9 Is the square fitting hollow? Or just a round hole down the middle? Can you take material off the square? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldrx Posted January 9 Share Posted January 9 Yeah just a plain hole for a banjo bolt I assume, if I cut this down I would need to remove material to the point it cuts approx 1mm off the diameter of the circular recessed section leaving the wall around 3.6mm thick on that side, would think that would be plenty? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HKM400 Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 Hoping someone can assist- we have an Isuzu Elf at work that is currently over 3.5 ton, so requires a class 2 license and COF. We want to remove some racking as it’s never used, this will put it under 3.5 ton so would only require class 1 to drive it and annual wof inspections. Is it a case of removing the racking and getting it certified at the new weight, or is there a separate process? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 My understanding is that it's related to the manufacturer GVM ratings, if it's rated as a heavy vehicle then it would be hard to get it reduced just by removing equipment. Heavy vehicle chassis ratings: modification thresholds to allow a heavy vehicle’s GVM to be altered (and its chassis rating to be changed) | Vehicle Inspection Portal (nzta.govt.nz) YMMV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 21 hours ago, oldrx said: Can I remove material from this ali brake caliper in the casting area marked and still pass cert? The square fitting on the new flexi line fouls 2-3mm. Tempted to just file all the way across but machining would leave a nicer finish. If machining maybe take the whole lot off flush with fitting face? I think if the caliper doesn't have any recesses in the bore on the piston side, where that extra bit is on the back side, then you could machine it neatly for the hose to locate into. You would want to make sure the hose is going to be in the right orientation Otherwise if you think you might need to adjust hose position, probably better to get a hose end fitting that's rounded 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 1 hour ago, HKM400 said: Hoping someone can assist- we have an Isuzu Elf at work that is currently over 3.5 ton, so requires a class 2 license and COF. We want to remove some racking as it’s never used, this will put it under 3.5 ton so would only require class 1 to drive it and annual wof inspections. Is it a case of removing the racking and getting it certified at the new weight, or is there a separate process? Every time recently that I've asked LVVTA if a vehicle can have its GVM reduced even a small amount , the answer was no. One was a Ram TRX that the gvm was 3560kg which made it a heavy vehicle Another was a ute where if the gvm was lower they could have used a better size tyre It's something to do with NZTA rules, not lvvta 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HKM400 Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 Thanks both of you for the info, will get some class 2 licenses booked instead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 2 hours ago, HKM400 said: Hoping someone can assist- we have an Isuzu Elf at work that is currently over 3.5 ton, so requires a class 2 license and COF. We want to remove some racking as it’s never used, this will put it under 3.5 ton so would only require class 1 to drive it and annual wof inspections. Is it a case of removing the racking and getting it certified at the new weight, or is there a separate process? Can drive a vehicle on class 1 with gvm under 6000kg, as long as it's loaded weight is under 4500kg https://www.nzta.govt.nz/assets/resources/factsheets/11/docs/11-driver-licence-classes.pdf 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 19 hours ago, oldrx said: Yeah just a plain hole for a banjo bolt I assume, if I cut this down I would need to remove material to the point it cuts approx 1mm off the diameter of the circular recessed section leaving the wall around 3.6mm thick on that side, would think that would be plenty? Looks like the hose needs to be rotated 1/4 of a turn anticlockwise (on the square), are the hoses routed correctly? Are they the correct hoses for the vehicle? You don't want to be taking any meat off the calliper, it could be tricky to prove that it has not affected the stength of the calliper, even though a finger in the air test says it will be fine, I wouldn't. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bling Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 I did wonder about rotating it, measurements seem to check out based on the 1mm missing from the round section. Assuming that puts the hose all up the wazoo direction wise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kiwibirdman Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 My 2000 Silverado has lowered front springs that have sagged to the point that it is just about sitting on the bump stops. I was looking at @cletus thread for his truck and it used lowered springs plus lowered spindles. My question is are there lowered spindles that are type approved or will I have to go through a toe test? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted January 10 Share Posted January 10 None of them are pre approved , all have to have a bump steer check done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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