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For Questions Regarding WOFs/CERTs/NUMBER PLATEs


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Semi related vehicle category yarn.  I had 4 CX-9s in the workshop.  All AWD, all the same spec with the same ride height and bumpers and visually identical.  2 of them were MA and 2 of them MC. 

WOF auditing inspector was visiting so asked him and his explanation was the rules are basically shit interpretations of old legislation that's applied by people trying to do their best..... And we all know it doesn't work 100% of the time.

So yeah, not your WOF inspectors fault that 2 identical vehicles are different categories so your tints are illegal.

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I peeled it this AM ...  :(

 

On the plus sides i might have a WOF by CoB today... and with any luck i will also have "new" wheels on... my garage wanted them checked as they had been on a rally car in thier past life and may not be true etc etc.

Fingers crossed, might be my last weekend to get anything sorted before Marahau.

 

 

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We both know you should just be thankful the WOF inspector didn't find the massive amounts of rust.

Don't tell me it's a Leone without rust, thats unpossible.

I failed a WOF on trailer wheel bearings today... Which was a legit fail.  Also had to do the brake test with a tapley meter because it was a braked trailer.

Hitting the picks with 3 ton of boat behind you on a wet road with no ABS was mildly exciting.

Anyways, he also failed it on a piece of angle iron tie bar which had been scalloped to bend it around the boat hull, but the cut scalloped section hadn't been welded back together good enough.  It seems the VIRM is pretty strict/maybe overkill when it comes to which bits of a boat trailer are structural.

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Every 6 months it get a fresh round of rust repair done… I even found some more that I didn’t know existed purely because I have a parts car and it was rusting there, sure enough check and yup there it is, I really need to get some kind of sprey on rust kill type product and do it from the inside as it’s currently rusting from the inside out… I have found a preferable project so this one’s gunna keep getting patches on patches although I’m doing a good job of putting new steel in it haha

 

 

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On 08/02/2023 at 20:46, HumberSS said:

@cletus wondering if you can enlighten me on any rules pertaining to minimum distances from exhaust to fuel tank? Check my Last post in my v8 dyna thread for reference. Presently about an inch, was thinking to sheild... Cheers

Lvvta manual is free online

Screenshot_20230210_123903.jpg

 

I take that as closer than 50mm is OK if its the factory position, OR you have a heat shield 

The in service/wof requirement is that its not going to get damaged by heat, so some room for interpretation I'd say

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30 minutes ago, Kerry-TGI said:

Is it plausible to have the position of where the leaf springs bolt into the hanger moved to achieve a bit more lowering without a block, or is that super dodgy/never get cert

You mean shorter shackles? That would be a common thing. Just make sure the spring doesn't hit the chassis rail.

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1 minute ago, Kerry-TGI said:

I guess I do mean that. Are the shackles normally at both ends or just the rear, and shifting that point alone is enough

Normally just one end, front is usually a fixed pivot, otherwise the whole axle would slop back and forth.

I've made slightly longer ones in the past for wheel clearance

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done it a couple of times on navaras because the front spring eye is mounted down below the chassis rail. if done neatly you might get away with it

 

technically does require cert though

 

However

you have to be careful of pinion angle change if you do one end only

if you do only one end, the drop you get will only be approx half of the change you make to the shackle or spring mount, ie if you shortened the shackle 30mm it would only drop it about 15mm

like nominal said, you would have to be careful that shortening the shackle doesnt cause the spring to hit the chassis as the shackle goes thru its travel.

 

from what i can remember of what a hilux spring mount looks like, i would think it would be more hassle than its worth tbh

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Two years ago my car passed a wof with this corrosion in the front guard. Non-structural, doesn't affect where the guard is affixed to the chassis. 

Yesterday at the same place with the same inspector it failed. He said the fail was due to it being within 150mm of the bolt. As far as I can read in the VIRM the 150mm limit only applies to proximity to structural elements (hinge/A pillar). 

Usually I wouldn't kick up a stink but the combo of not being able to find anything in the VIRM about non-structural areas and the fact it passed before has me in a bit of a tizz. 

Basically just need someone else to tell me its a fail so I can suck it up and get it sorted instead of having a wah about it. Cheers team. 

 

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