cletus Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 could you unpick the bit that the gearbag xmember bolts to and shift it back? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 Man that's a sweet drawing! Beaver, could you weld a new mount to the tail housing further back? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
be4ver Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 could you unpick the bit that the gearbag xmember bolts to and shift it back? i dont think so, its like chassis rail looking stz. Â Â Man that's a sweet drawing! Beaver, could you weld a new mount to the tail housing further back? possibly. Or would i be able to utilise those holes in the end of the tail housing. Keep the xmember where it is and just modify that middle mount of the xmember ? Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 I'm no expert but that's exactly what I'd do. Those holes are perfect. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-W-G Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 Heya Cletus i just purchased a bias pedal box for my escort but have recently been told that i am not allowed to use it due to welded pedals. Is there any way i can use it in the escort or am i stuck with a heap of unusable metal? I also have a set of anti tramp rods and panhard rod for my escort, what are to do's and dont's with installing them? I will be going as per the escort rally prep manual. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted April 6, 2015 Share Posted April 6, 2015 http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents.html#standards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Hi Cletus, Is there any issue with wheel arch extensions that are 60mm wider each side (that's rear, front is less)? And on that note, having a overall wheel track width that is 120mm wider than standard? This would require cutting and welding the existing guards and fitting wheels with enough offset and width to suit.  I've been through 3 certs with different cars but none have a track width change like this would be.  Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Heya Cletus i just purchased a bias pedal box for my escort but have recently been told that i am not allowed to use it due to welded pedals. Is there any way i can use it in the escort or am i stuck with a heap of unusable metal? I also have a set of anti tramp rods and panhard rod for my escort, what are to do's and dont's with installing them? I will be going as per the escort rally prep manual. depends on the pedal box. most of the escort ones ive seen lately have been poorly made and flex a lot. usually no brand name and bought cheap from overseas.  if the pedal box itself was ok then you could make another pedal that complies with the book  as for your other stuff thats a bit more involved than what i want to sit here writing. Best to get/borrow a copy of the hobby car manual and have a read through that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Hi Cletus, Is there any issue with wheel arch extensions that are 60mm wider each side (that's rear, front is less)? And on that note, having a overall wheel track width that is 120mm wider than standard? This would require cutting and welding the existing guards and fitting wheels with enough offset and width to suit.  I've been through 3 certs with different cars but none have a track width change like this would be.  Thanks Not really a big deal, make sure you dont exceed the maximum offset (20% of rim width) and make sure the tyres dont rub, thats about all you would have to worry about cert wise Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
d.p.n.s Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Hi Cletus I've been having a fick threw the hobbie car manual and I can't find much info on modifying cross members. What sort of things can you do? I mounted mine in the origanal postion so the TCA arms will be in the same postion. Then cut the central section out and welded some 6mm wall tube to the back side of it and gusseted ....basically to make room for the sump as I really didn't want to fuck with that to much. Thanks for your time kind sir 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 There's a max rim ofset? I never knew that 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted April 7, 2015 Share Posted April 7, 2015 Not really a big deal, make sure you dont exceed the maximum offset (20% of rim width) and make sure the tyres dont rub, thats about all you would have to worry about cert wise Thanks, will look into offsets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 Has anyone ever been caught out with the no more than 20% power increase rule? Just curious, would it then be up to the owner to prive it, or will john key pay for a dyno.day hhaaha i would only need a 6hp increase to break it. Which is a bit sad. Unless i put an ohc head conversion on which doubles the power - but i think thatvwould need a cert 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted April 12, 2015 Share Posted April 12, 2015 And an actual question on fitting a front sway bar most of.the kits i see for.the minor attach to.the tie bar mounts by using a longer stud they are then attqched to the chassis by welding or drilling another set of mounts to. I take it this is not alowed from.the wording no cutting, heating, or welding is to the suspension components or vechicle structure is to be undertaken when fitting the bar. If so i think i could make up a bracket that could bolt to.the underside of the engine mount towers and "sleeve" the chassis rail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 if you are getting it certed then drilling holes and stuff is ok if within the rules  if not then yes you will have to attach it via magic and cunning.   most cars people mess with would need certs for other reasons anyway if needing a cert for power increases. i have certed a few commodores that have had the usual LS upgrades, cam/tuning etc where they make more than 20% over factory Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 13, 2015 Share Posted April 13, 2015 Hi Cletus I've been having a fick threw the hobbie car manual and I can't find much info on modifying cross members. What sort of things can you do? I mounted mine in the origanal postion so the TCA arms will be in the same postion. Then cut the central section out and welded some 6mm wall tube to the back side of it and gusseted ....basically to make room for the sump as I really didn't want to fuck with that to much. Thanks for your time kind sir sounds like it would probably be ok if its as strong or stronger than it was factory 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRWEST Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 so just double checking, i know what the answer is . My 14x7 tru spokes, want to run 175/70/14's . But going by the books its 195/something/14. No way around this aside from cert on 195s and swap back later? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 only other option is get some tyres that the manufacturer says is ok for that size rim, which probably dont exist 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MRWEST Posted April 14, 2015 Share Posted April 14, 2015 only other option is get some tyres that the manufacturer says is ok for that size rim, which probably dont exist and need to be white wall, and cut ins are dum. So looks like thats my only option. Super dum! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted April 15, 2015 Share Posted April 15, 2015 I was reading through the hobby car manual last night, specifically the section about passenger compartment areas and rollcages/rollbars. Am I correct in reading that if the rollcage bars are 100% outside of the 'A' category passenger protection zone a full cage can be certed under the cert process rather than requiring an authority card? it appeared from the drawing that provided full harness or web type 3 point seatblets are used this is 320mm wide centred on the seat and 700mm long arc from the hip point of the front seats at the horizontal and traced around in an arc to the back angle of the seats. not a major issue one way or the other really but reading it made me think this could potentially save having to get yet another piece of paper and pay another fee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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