cletus Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 What's the go with re drilling 5 stud to 5 stud? Do I have to get the old holes welded up? 5X114.3 to 5x120 if you were wondering if you are talking about re drilling te axles/hubs, just drill in between. will only work if the back of the hub is flat and doesnt have cast-in gussets or access holes to get to other bolts etc changing the wheel pcd is probably easier with pressed in inserts like above. arrow wheels do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 Is this okay on a wheel in order to fit slim spacer nuts under? Have been relayed information from a friend recently going through cert that this is totally acceptable, and Znoelli offered the service also so it can't be dangerous surely? It's been done properly and all that, and is only cut down by 3-5mm at absolute max, but just wondering if it could cause any problems going through cert. Again, the certifier I'd probably be using has said that he doesn't mind this at all. will depend on the certifier as long as there is minimal material removed then i cant see a problem 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 Lance Walsh still about? not sure, i have heard a rumor hes packing it in as well and i spoke to alex gee today, he is going to be off for 6 weeks for an operation shiiiiit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghostchips Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 Hello, i would like to fit ford wide5 type stud patterned wheels to hubs not designed for demountable wheels. Would a large steel plate 5mm thick be acceptable? (thicker would be abnormally heavy and reduce braking performance) Would it be acceptable to weld the 5 suds at the perimeter as well as whatever knurling they might have? The smaller hub was intended to carry the center of the wheel rim about 15mm from the hub face, to duplicate this with a later model wheel might require a spacer, this might affect the offset of the wheel from the hub flange more than rules allow, spacer could be reduced or eliminated but i was hoping to keep the distribution close to factory if possible. What do you recommend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dylann Posted March 10, 2015 Share Posted March 10, 2015 will depend on the certifier as long as there is minimal material removed then i cant see a problem Thanks for the reply Guess i'll talk to him when I go through the process aswell but always good to have outside opinion too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dell'orto Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 Heard a rumour today that the plain cylindrical mounts (like the universal/cortina type ones) will not be ok for cert unless encapsulated? Hoping this isn't true! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 Hello, i would like to fit ford wide5 type stud patterned wheels to hubs not designed for demountable wheels. Would a large steel plate 5mm thick be acceptable? (thicker would be abnormally heavy and reduce braking performance) Would it be acceptable to weld the 5 suds at the perimeter as well as whatever knurling they might have? The smaller hub was intended to carry the center of the wheel rim about 15mm from the hub face, to duplicate this with a later model wheel might require a spacer, this might affect the offset of the wheel from the hub flange more than rules allow, spacer could be reduced or eliminated but i was hoping to keep the distribution close to factory if possible. What do you recommend? i would recommend using some different hubs to start with. sounds too hard to get it to work safely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 Heard a rumour today that the plain cylindrical mounts (like the universal/cortina type ones) will not be ok for cert unless encapsulated? Hoping this isn't true! sometimes its easier to use a locking type engine mount to comply with the rule that says the engine cant rock over and jam up the steering if an engine mount breaks, but no, those round mounts are not illegal Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crownin round Posted March 11, 2015 Share Posted March 11, 2015 Hey I'm looking to hopefully get the wagon certed in the Easter break. So was wondering what im likely to run into. All im doing is cert for 14x8's and lowering just with custom springs made and shorter shocks but below 100mm. With legal tyres (195/45r14 falkens) it will likely be around 60-70mm. I need it done resonably quick because im hoping to be done so i can drive it down south to my new place. Currently trying to find what certifier to use as apparently Taupo can be a prick and Tauranga has a 70mm height limit. Cletus you wouldn't happen to be interested in doing it maybe if i trailored it up? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 One of the cert guys doing the scratch build cars has or is going to quit, can another cert guy take over your project when its half way though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 another certifier can do it, but you would be starting again with the new certifier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 Hey I'm looking to hopefully get the wagon certed in the Easter break. So was wondering what im likely to run into. All im doing is cert for 14x8's and lowering just with custom springs made and shorter shocks but below 100mm. With legal tyres (195/45r14 falkens) it will likely be around 60-70mm. I need it done resonably quick because im hoping to be done so i can drive it down south to my new place. Currently trying to find what certifier to use as apparently Taupo can be a prick and Tauranga has a 70mm height limit. Cletus you wouldn't happen to be interested in doing it maybe if i trailored it up? sorry am booked out till may. TBH wouldnt want to cert something lower than 70mm either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 Hello, i would like to fit ford wide5 type stud patterned wheels to hubs not designed for demountable wheels. Would a large steel plate 5mm thick be acceptable? (thicker would be abnormally heavy and reduce braking performance) Would it be acceptable to weld the 5 suds at the perimeter as well as whatever knurling they might have? The smaller hub was intended to carry the center of the wheel rim about 15mm from the hub face, to duplicate this with a later model wheel might require a spacer, this might affect the offset of the wheel from the hub flange more than rules allow, spacer could be reduced or eliminated but i was hoping to keep the distribution close to factory if possible. What do you recommend? Get some Super Bell stubs, you will find your brake drums and bearings fit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted March 30, 2015 Share Posted March 30, 2015 TBH i've only heard good things about the taupo guy from friends who have used him for certs and I found him helpful when I have spoken with him. I expect if you talk to him respectfully like an adult and listen to him and dont turn up in a flatpeak you might be ok provided the the work on the car is decent and within the rules. I think if your chassis is below 100mm you should to be above the scrub radius or whatever its called? i.e. effectively if you had no tyres the car should sit on the rims without the chassis being on the ground is my understanding. this pretty much puts you at 70+mm anyway? is that right clint? or is my brain making things up here? not sure now I do the math since most tyres are going to be near 100mm? even a 175/50 is 87.5mm sidewall? or is the squash of the tyre against the road taken in to account? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 I think the scrub check is for one flat tire, i.e. one side low, so that helps a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
be4ver Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 hello! i have an issue on my Galant. The gearbox crossmember bolts on too far back from the gearbox, to bolt up properly it needs to be about 100mm or so foward. What is the best way of doing this? i was thinking of just taking some nice thick steel and bolting that to the car then bolt the crossmember to that or would welding them together be better? please see illustration also in doing this would the bolts need to be upgraded from the 4x m6 ones currently bolting the crossmember to the floor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JasonK Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 I think the scrub check is for one flat tire, i.e. one side low, so that helps a bit. Yeah scrub line is basically 2 lines drawn from the bottom of the rims to where the tyres meet the ground and nothing can be below that, you do it both side on and front/rear too edit: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 there has been more talk lately about minimum chassis heights, mostly due to this van. ended up with the police making a complaint against LVVTA, caused a lot of drama and wasted time at LVVTA. the guys attitude didnt help either, "FTP" bullshit every time he got pulled over i think the lowest part on this was 40mm from memory. last time i talked to the tech guy at LVVTA about it, he reckoned 80mm should be the lowest we should be certing anything the scrub line thing is as jason posted. most cars i look at the scrub line thing is not an issue as most people are building cars with lower profile tyres with short sidewalls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 hello! i have an issue on my Galant. The gearbox crossmember bolts on too far back from the gearbox, to bolt up properly it needs to be about 100mm or so foward. What is the best way of doing this? i was thinking of just taking some nice thick steel and bolting that to the car then bolt the crossmember to that or would welding them together be better? please see illustration also in doing this would the bolts need to be upgraded from the 4x m6 ones currently bolting the crossmember to the floor m6? i thought they are 8mm on those anyway, its probably a bit far away for a flat bar to hang the x member off. especially if its only got 8mm bolts. have seen a couple of s4/5 rx7 that have been converted from manual to auto by doing what you are describing and they had cracks in the floor nissans have the same issue, 2 of the bolt holes line up so you can do it on them but they have bigger bolts and the offset is not very much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
be4ver Posted March 31, 2015 Share Posted March 31, 2015 Haha yeah sorry 8mm bolts. So will I need to make holes in the floor with big washers / crush tubes etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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