RUNAMUCK Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 How about a V8 conversion where all bolt in stuff was used from a car of the same model which had been factory fitted with a V8? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Still needs loops. It's silly in a lot of cases but that's the fun of blanket rules. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CUL8R Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Regarding rim widths / tyres sizes.  Rims = 11" bead to bead but 12" overall. Bead to bead width is proper measurement so the tyre shops claim. What measurement does the cert man take when checking to see the tyres are correctly fitted?    I'm hoping i can get away with a 295/35 as a 315/30 is awefully expensive and lets be honest here, tyres aren't going to last that long..  Quietly, you could look at running Falkens, they can be supplied with 1/2" "stretch" complete with signed paperwork from the Manufacturer. That way the smallest you can run would be a 255/40r18.. (Provided they make that size)  Inside bead to bead is the correct measurement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 i use the proper measurement, ie the bead to bead one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 yep as long as it is definitely 11'', thats fine according to the chart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Question regarding driveshaft hoops. In my z20, the standard engine was a 7mgte, so litre turbo. Im planning on putting in either a 2jzge or 1jzge, so non turbo. Would i be required to use driveshaft hoops for cert? if the driveshaft is standard and not modified, and a 2 or 1j makes less powers than the original engine, then no 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Can the top mounts for rear coil over shocks (four link live axle, eye type top attachment) be mounted to a cross bar welded into the roll cage? yep if its suitably strong, that would work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 What is defined as a significant increase in power? I have increased the power for my VK from 54kw (Starfire) to 114kw (RB30) (Wikipedia KW spec LoLzz) so yes that is a 'significant' increase in that respect but as the rb30 was factory in a VL (pretty much the same as VK) and the motors stock, it's not really a significant increase for the body? So hoop required or nah? Starting to get car ready for cert so Yee And that bit about #43? Fs010. It's mostly a bolt in swap with all factory components bar the gearbox xmembers which is a homemade affair. So that means its not under that umbrella? its the increase over what it originally had, (over 50%) so you would need loops. Â ignore that bit about #43, thats to do with the layout of the checksheet we use and the process of the cert inspection 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 How about a V8 conversion where all bolt in stuff was used from a car of the same model which had been factory fitted with a V8? had a look at a commode today, that "was a v6 originally and its had a v8 swapped into it"  hmm. can see where the ss badges were on the boot and doors those rivets on the chassis tags dont look original, and theres little scratches on the one that lives under the windscreen its a 2002 and its only done 12,000km the details and stuff on the front page of the owners manual has been ripped out oh, and someones attacked the engine number with a chisel  and if you can get the cops to say thats all ok, then it needs driveshaft loops, lol 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bangbug Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 had a look at a commode today, that "was a v6 originally and its had a v8 swapped into it"  hmm. can see where the ss badges were on the boot and doors those rivets on the chassis tags dont look original, and theres little scratches on the one that lives under the windscreen its a 2002 and its only done 12,000km the details and stuff on the front page of the owners manual has been ripped out oh, and someones attacked the engine number with a chisel  and if you can get the cops to say thats all ok, then it needs driveshaft loops, lol  Are you bound to report something like this when you believe the tags have been swapped? I think that was in the literature somewhere as well. I think it puts you in a bit of a bind as I imagine some people you'd really rather not rat on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R100 Posted September 3, 2014 Share Posted September 3, 2014 Reminds me of my commodore. The vin tag under the screen didnt match the rego plate. After removing the windscreen i see that someone had cut a slot in the foam that goes between the body and the screen and slipped another ID tag in there. Lucky for me the old original id tag was still underneath. Fitted a new screen and i was away. Truth is i had no idea the tag had been changed. You wouldn't even know. Something to be wearing about when buying commodores.  Edit; i should mention my car was a stolen recovered vehicle from Turners auctions sold to me with a clear title. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cletus Posted September 4, 2014 Share Posted September 4, 2014 Are you bound to report something like this when you believe the tags have been swapped? I think that was in the literature somewhere as well. I think it puts you in a bit of a bind as I imagine some people you'd really rather not rat on! as far as certifiers are concerned, we have to refer the vehicle to a TSDA (vinz/aa/vtnz that does re reg) for validation of the vehicle id  there is a form wof inspectors can fill out if they find something dodgy as well  theres a tech article about this stuff if you are interested //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/43031-tips-for-avoiding-dodgy-cars/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Connor Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 This sounds dumb, is it possible to certify 4 to 5 stud adaptors? Wanting to adapt 5x112 wheels to 4x100 stud pattern Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted September 11, 2014 Share Posted September 11, 2014 Yep it is. Up to 27mm thick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R100 Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 If i import a fresh import with no paperwork and cut out the chassis numbers and plate them them in can i get it vinned? Or what if i replace the whole firewall to give it the smooth look (still no chassis numbers) can i get it vinned? Or what if i find a roof from a wreckers, some doors boot and bonnet at pick a part, some rear quarters from zebra a floor and nose cut from another wrecker and make my own firewall with no vin numbers, get the rest of the parts new from a car dealership can i get it vinned ? Even if i buy all the parts new from a dealership can i get it vinned ? Now back to my first question, what if i import an import with no papers, replace the whole firewall and say i built the whole car from new and used parts. Who would know ? I hope you like my story 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted September 12, 2014 Share Posted September 12, 2014 Be sure to unpick the spotwelds, and replace the whole panel. Boffins like Clint will poke their boreOscope into the heater ducts, and see if they can see welds where the number has been cut out and rewelded. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crownin round Posted September 14, 2014 Share Posted September 14, 2014 I interested in the rules with welding on vechicles for certs etc.  I see you have to pass a test for the lvvta tester on some things but not others etc but then a few mates iv talked to just took lots of photos or got things x rayed and it was good enough.  Mainly for shortening a diff and rewelding all the mounts and adding say a base plate for an air bag who can do this? and what if something was done before you have owned.  Also for welding up / fabricting engine mounts  and gear box x member whats the go.  oh and is i where to notch the chassis is it allright to take say a 30-40mm notch out and box up the remaining section to restrengthen in as id only need around an inch or 2 something similar to sheepers crown i suppose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmitsi Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Im also asking about welding but on calliper mounts can they be made of components welded together or do they have to be made out of one solid piece of steel. here's a pic of what ive started with all tacked up and I was planning to flux core weld them and the steel is 10mm thick. Im a qualified welder aswell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 I'm pretty sure caliper mounts have to be a single solid piece, but if you can weld them it'd require tig and crack testing, just like any front suspension components Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmitsi Posted September 15, 2014 Share Posted September 15, 2014 Tigs not a problem just thought with it being 10mm its at the higher end of what there good for but if it has to be tigged then I can do it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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