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Found 32 results

  1. Picked up a AA60 coupe. Girl friend promptly named it something girly ha It's pretty dam tidy with very little rust. I made s point of pulling plait off to feel around and it's pretty sweet. Motor runs mint, clutch would have been done not long ago, interia all there and good con, coupe little strainers here and there. Full digital dash 3A T50 (22 spline I'm told) Small axel One very open diff And a truck ton of body roll. Will be left standard for a while. Plans of SSR mk3's New fixed shock and spring combo all round to get it low and stiff Lock diff or LSD And swap the 4agze out of my aw11 into it once the 7A finally goes in //
  2. Hi all Here is my discussion for my KE20 Corolla build.
  3. I have bought a poorly treated, unloved 1981 KE70 Toyota Corolla, with the vision of restoring and also upgrading it to the 3SGE Beams Black Top. I want to set the car up so it can be taken to the track and also used as a show car. I have bought a 1999 Toyota Altezza with a 6 speed manual box and the donating Beams engine. Will post photos and discussion as the project goes on, please feel free to ask questions
  4. I'm not sure where I got this info but I thought I'd share it. First of all some basic info about the F series Diff. Crown Wheel: 7.5" Braking: Drum and Disc variations RA65 Celica = Drum RT142 Corona IRS = Solid Disc MA61 Supra = Vented disc MX73 Cressida = Vented Disc YR22 Tarago = Drum MS112 Crown = Drum Corona Mk2 = Drum RT142 live axle borgwarner discs can be adopted (semi) easily onto some F and T diffs F series ratio info here on Toymods too. To see which ratio your F diff is check out this: Read the Axle Code from the vehicle indentification plate. first digit: ring gear diameter A 138mm B 145mm C 6.25" D 6.62" E 7.1" F 7.5" G 8" H 9" J 9.25" K 9.5" L 10.5" M 12.5" N 13.5" P 14" Q 12" R 162mm S 6.38" T 6.7" U 6" V 10.6" W 15.5" X 142mm Y 158mm Z 202mm - no ring gear = FWD Second, third digits: gear ratio 01 3.30 02 3.36 03 3.545 04 3.556 05 3.70 06 3.889 07 3.90 08 4.111 09 4.222 10 4.375 11 4.444 12 4.625 13 4.79 14 4.875 15 5.125 16 5.286 17 5.60 18 5.714 19 5.833 20 6.167 21 6.667 22 6.78 23 6.833 24 7.64 25 4.556 26 5.571 27 3.364 28 4.30 29 4.10 30 3.727 31 3.909 32 6.591 or 4.807 33 7.503 or 5.583 34 6.781 or 4.786 35 7.636 or 5.60 36 4.778 37 3.583 38 3.417 39 3.154 40 5.375 41 3.308 42 6.500 43 3.550 44 3.214 45 3.533 46 2.928 47 3.944 48 3.356 49 3.729 50 3.400 51 3.736 52 3.722 53 3.250 54 3.941 55 3.333 56 2.821 57 4.058 58 3.238 59 3.234 60 3.519 61 2.724 62 2.892 63 2.655 64 4.312 65 3.837 66 3.071 67 3.526 68 3.095 69 4.176 70 5.857 71 2.962 72 3.949 73 4.285 Fourth digit: no of pinions, ltd slip-yes/no Code pinions ls 2 2 no 3 2 yes 4 4 no 5 4 yes Example: F372 = 7.5" 3.58 final ratio 2 pinion diff. Will not be stamped on the diff, you will have to check the build plate on the firewall of the car you pull it from. LSD Availability: Altezza LSD's form the likes of Kaaz etc will bolt in but a spacer ring needs to be made up for it to work. Can anyone shed more light on this? Steroidchickens? Tomei Altezza centre into an MS112 Crown = Works, no problem! Cusco Altezza centre into YR22 Tarago = Success! IRS centres will bolt straight into Live axle F diffs so you could use an MA61 LSD but apparently no good for proper driving with small clutch plates and small surface area they aren't very effective and usually well worn out. An aftermarket 1.5 or 2 way or locker is your best bet for grip or drift work. See Kaaz, Tomei, OS Giken, Cusco, (TRD no longer available) Side note for celica/cressida/irs corona - Altezza/RS2000 Cusco LSD was a nightmare for my diff guy into RT142/RA65 IRS centre probably due to the car not being LSD to begin with. Machining and lots of hunting for correct bearings needed. Have been told (but can't confirm) that the MA61 diff centre half shafts are needed as they were lsd from factory and are shorter to suit. Torsen and Truetracs LSD's are also available. Many hilux 4wd live axle ran 7.5" FRONT diffs too 80 and 90's, possibly 2000's. Lots of options from 4 wheel drive aftermarket companies. Cars: MX13 Cessida - 3.9 - 1410mm (Same width as T series/S series/KE70 BW) Tarago YR22 - 4.1 manual and 4.3 auto - 1435mm Uses a G series (Hilux) diff nose flange bolt pattern (60x60mm) All other F series is 55x55mm) Crowns: MS110 Solid Axle (coils) F362: 7.5", 4.77:1, 2 pinions, Open 5x114.3 1450mm Solid disc MS112 Solid Axle (coils) F292: 7.5", 4.10:1, 2 pinions, Open 5x114.3 1450mm Solid disc MS123 Semi trailing arm IRS F285: 7.5", 4.30:1, 4 pinions, Clutch LSD 5x114.3 N/A Ventilated disc, 1 piston calipers MS50 Solid Axle (leaf) F292: 7.5", 4.10:1, 2 pinions, Open 5x114.3 unknown Drum
  5. Bought R100s Ke70 wagon for use as a daily. Very nice, close to no rust. Basically mint. Picked it up on the weekend using a quite fancy towing rig I borrowed from a friend (Who has been using it for 20 years without fail). Would have used an actual trailer but my mum's Rav can't handle it and my friend's truck was being used to move house. So we got the car onto the tow rig: And the tow rig was working great! Until... Disaster Struck!: One of the tires popped while towing. We didn't notice for a solid couple of minutes and as of that not only was the fender dented back, wires pulled out and bumper broken but the rim is also absolutely destroyed. So we chucked on one of the back wheels, taped the wiring to the car, and went on our merry way... Then that popped too. And it popped a lot sooner than the other tire. Meaning that we were scared. Not only because 2 of the tires popped, I mean, how often does that happen? But the car also had only 1 spare tire, R100, lent out the spare tire and never got it back, lol. Second flat also destroyed what was left of the bumper end cap AND pulled out the wiring we had taped to the side. And with pulled out I mean that the wiring is absolutely gone. Nothing is left. Anyway, we chucked on the last tire and drove into Taupo (30ish ks away from where we had the last blowout) and we left the car with some friends for the time being: Kinda sad story. Hoping to pick up the car soon. Meanwhile buying some stock ke70 wheels so I can get the car onto trailer. Then need to find someone in Napier with a ke70 to check what all the wiring is that I am missing. Also want to buy right end cap for my front bumper, lol. Discussion, for if anyone has any tips.
  6. Here goes! Ever since I sold the RT40 I have had a yearning for another high powered old Toyota. Two years of grinding away at renovating a shitty house and I finally have the time & money to enjoy an OS car again. Priorities changed somewhat however and the idea of starting a project like that from the beginning after this house renovation scared me and my bank balance. So after some arm twisting and dinner cooking for the mrs it was decided to go and search for something "finished". This little car was mentioned to me by some Oldschoolers and I had followed the build thread of it over on Toyspeed since it's inception. I guess I'll start with some specifications from the previous owner (because I'm lazy) and pictures from today after I had given it a wash, machine polish & wax to a level I was happy with! Discussion Fred Engine: Model: 7A-GTE Block Internal Spec: Factory crank shaft, Forged ross racing pistons and top seal rings, H-beam rods, ARP bolts throughout, toga race bearings and oil pump Cylinder Head Spec: Rebuilt Factory 4a-ge 20v blacktop vvti head with Supertech Valve springs and TRD steel headgasket and ARP headstuds Intake system: Factory 4a-ge 20v Blacktop ITB’s and MRP 2-peice plenum with 3” intake Turbo system: New Holset turbo supplied by steve murch, x2 Tial 38mm MVS wastegates, MAXfab custom thickwall stainless steel manifold, HKS ssqv bov, Fuel System: 60L Jazz fuel cell, carter lift pump, surgetank, bosch 044 fuel pump, full braided Teflon lines through to 800cc SARD injectors, turbosmart FPR-800 regulator Ignition System: x4 1nz individual coils mounted to a CNC’d made-to-suit aluminium adaptor plate Exhaust System: MAXfab Full 3” stainless steel exhaust system, x2 inline mufflers through to custom dump tip Cooling: 3 Core custom aluminium realdeal radiator with electric fan, setrab oil cooler and 500x250x56 tube & fin intercooler with 3” inlet/outlet Engine Management: Link G3 ECU (upgraded to g4 Firmware) with 4-bar MAP sensor and electronic boost solenoid Engine Bay: de-loomed engine bay, custom aluminium oil catch can, custom aluminium overflow bottle Other: gilmer drive pulley kit, remote oil filter kit Driveline: Gearbox: W55 supra 5 speed gearbox Flywheel/Clutch: Quartermaster twin plate clutch with billet flywheel to suit with ARP flywheel bolts, willwood reverse cylinder mount pedal box with remote reserviors Differential: 4.1 ratio LSD shortened hilux rear end Other: custom 1 piece driveshaft with custom driveshaft hoop Suspension: Shocks: Front – shortened shocks and modified OEM struts fitted with coilover sleeve kits and custom CNC’d camber tops Rear – adjustable shocks and reset and stiffened leaf springs with custom made anti-tramp bar setup with chromoly rods and QA1 rod ends Others: Cusco TE27 front strut brace, custom made swaybar to suit engine position and nolathane bushes allround Brakes: Front: 4-pot FD3s s6 RX7 front callipers and sloted rotors with steel braided brake lines Rear: s13 single pot claipers and rear sloted rotors Wheels and Tyres: Wheels: 17x7” (F) and 17x8” ® genuine work meister s1’s Tyres: Pirenza 205/40/R17 all round Exterior: Panel & Paint: Prep and paint done by Jason price, finished in a custom holden green Other: New indicators, park lights and headlights, all new window and door rubbers/channel, straightened and rechromed front and rear bumpers, doors and boot fitted with solex locks Interior: Seats: x2 Racetech 1000 bucket seats and factory rear seat Steering Wheel & Gear Knob: woodgrain steering wheel and stainless/bronze gearknob Gauges/Meters: Autometer cobalt digital boost gauge and autometer cobalt oil temp water temp and oil pressure gauge Audio: Pioneer Bluetooth headunit mounted in glovebox and alpine typr-R 6x9s in rear parcel tray Performance: Dyno Power: 320kw @ the rear wheels on 23psi with previous masterpower turbo setup, have since gone to a smaller holset unit for more response, currently making 280kw on 20 psi and full boost at around 4000rpm
  7. Link to discussion thread: // Alright so a bit of background for those who care to read: I bought this car recently from a car collector after seeing an internet advertisement for it. The collector was an older gentleman who had quite a few old American cars and some others such as a Merc, mini, and all three generations of the MR-2; apparently he was wanting to thin the herd down a little. So basically I gave this guy a call asking about the car and its history, He didn't have internet so we ended up having a few back and forth conversations before finally agreeing on a price. He was quite nice and funny to talk to so it wasn't like hard negotiations or anything, more just like talking about the car, which was nice =) To be honest I didn't really think that I'd get the car so I was kind of surprised when we finally agreed. What! I bought a car unseen in person over the phone from some guy 6 hours away! I had never done this before. Anyway the day came to pick it up, I was pretty nervous that it might be really rough in person or weather or not it would even make the trip back home (like I said it was a collectors car so not driven much). Because of this when I finally arrived home with a very clean AW11, I was so glad. I must have spent about an hour or so just walking around it looking at it from different angles while the sun set. ...Skip forward a month or so and the car suffered some pretty bad overheating, lol. Basically the engine is cooked (probably can be rebuilt). Despite this, I love this car way too much to even consider selling (I've been though quite a few cars btw). So there was no doubt in my mind about what needed to be done... it will be reborn. I'm going to be replacing the engine (will keep original engine for a future rebuild) and because everything will be out of the car I will also do a manual swap since there is no better time for it. I want to keep it original for the most part, but will likely have a few light modifications. As I said, I only had it for a month or two before this incident happened so the craving to drive it again is steadily building. Some pics of it before the incident:
  8. Link to build thread: //
  9. Hey all. Discussion for the project thread on my Corolla Wagon. Cheers, Oli. Read.
  10. Hi all, Meet PogoSan. Affectiontely named so by the Girlfriend. A strange specimen, imported from Japan, a Ke74 "van" featuring high roof and some other goodies. Other goodies include a mighty 5k-j twin squash, t50 gearbox (from the factory!) and a lot of ride height. My plans include: Fix rust + paint. Restore interior. Retro sounds. Low. Retro jdm wheels. (Ssr mk1s?) Extractors + exhaust. Carbs. (Quad cvk carbies?). Msd ignition. The distant future may include: Full engine rebuild. - Cam. - Solid lifters. - Head skim. Lightened flywheel. Electric fan. LSD. Who knows... I am currently stripping down the car for sanding back, rust repairs and paint. More on that soon. Cheers, Oli. Discuss.
  11. So... basically i don't know where to start, but here goes. Bought this Ke20 the other day, $3710. First car and pretty stoaked. She's got a fair bit of rust, only a couple of nasty deep holes, mainly paint bubbles and surface. Paint needs redone etc. Engines running on three cylinders... Interior is pretty good, drivers seat needs a small upholsters touch up along rear seat but nothing major. Carpets are pretty whorey. Anyways heres a pic of it, more to come. Plans for her are to tidy her up and jdm style. Make her loud and quick as i can. Keen to keep the old 3k in her however... Discussion here,( // ), anything regarding the build helps as im young with not a lot of knowledge, any tips or places for parts, anything would be helpful and much appreciated. Cheers Harry
  12. This is my kp61 starlet build when i first got my hands on it it was an auto but was fairly tidy i had crack at manual converting but it didn't turn out the best so now im going back and repairing my terrible work and hopefully ending up with something that can beat my dads mini clubman it was running a 4k and a kp k50 gearbox but i am currently deciding what im going to put back into it. this is it as it sits awaiting panel and paint Discussion here //
  13. Discussion for the Corona coupe, would love to know about any others in NZ. Compared to the Celica there are far fewer photos and much less info on the Internet about them. Cheers!
  14. For discussion on my car, please visit - // My AE85 project purchased in April 2015. 1983 Toyota Trueno Sprinter with Levin front end. 187,800km on the clock, only traveled 10,000km since 2004, has been in storage for the last 3 years and owned by previous owner for 8 years. Originally imported to NZ in 1991 to Dunedin. Has been a Dunedin car up until the previous owner moved up to the Bay of Plenty. Plans for the AE85 is to turn it into a nice tidy street car with tasteful mods. So far the hard work has been done and is just a matter of improving on whats already been done and tidying up the panel and paint. 4age 2nd gen bigport with 7 rib block, Factory exhaust headers with free flow exhaust. AE86 2 piece driveshaft and with open diff, rear disc brakes, old owner said said diff is from a celica but unsure of this yet as he wasn't 100% certain Nolothane bushes throughout all suspension components T series box, unsure of what model yet, K-Sport Coilovers, All certed - Also says reinforced rear shock towers on plate 17x7 wheels with spacers (bit too big for car I feel and wrong styling for the error or the car) Came with 13x7 rims aswell. Currently temporarily have put my 15x7 wheels off my AE92 as 17s aren't the best to drive with. Fibreglass bonnet with bonnet pins.
  15. Hey guys I'm new to this forum and just wanted to share my project that I'm trying to restore
  16. Well I've been on here for quite some time, but haven't gotten around to doing a build thread, so here goes, at last, not that I've been that good at taking pics! Way back in the mid 90's, when I was a teenager looking for my first car I fell in love with the many Celica XX that cruised the streets of Auckland. I looked, and looked, and looked for ages to try and get one, initially just manual 2.8's then considered autos, 1G's turbos and even the poxy SOHC 2.0, but they all had a killer combination of being relatively expensive, and rusty! As a first time car owner, with a Dad who wasn't in the least bit mechanically minded it was a bit too daunting. So eventually I gave up, and ended up with an ST162 Celica, which served me well. In all honesty it was probably a better and more suitable car at the time in many regards. Fast forward a good few years, and in 2011 I came into a bit of money and thought to myself that I'd like to get a "toy". So I started considering my options. I was working at Nissan New Zealand at the time, so thought about a Silvia, or 180SX, considered a Skyline etc, but I kept coming back to two cars that I'd always loved, the ST205 Celica GT-Four, and the MA61. I'd sort of kept an eye on MA61's showing up on Trademe over the years, and thought about buying one in the past, but the timing was never really right. Anyway, I'd found a GT-Four that I liked, and an MA61, so it took a bit of deciding. The GT-Four had fairly high mileage, but looked a little tidier than the MA61. Well, in the end I decided to go for the MA61, and scored her for NZ$5500, after getting a little more carried away with the bidding than I probably should have. The next problem was that it was at the other end of the country. This was a drawcard for the purchase however, as it was in Alexandra, very appealing for a rust prone car. So I got her shipped up, and went to pick her up. Did I mention I'd bought her sight-unseen? She was a little rougher then I expected. I could see from the pics online that she'd need a serious cut and polish at least, and figured she may need a repaint. Well, when I had a good look I could see that both sides had had repairs and been repainted at some point, and she was a number of different shades of red. There was also a patch of filler lifting in the RH quarter, which wasn't really mentioned in the ad, but I didn't let that worry me too much, I figured that I'd just bring my plans for a repaint forward. So here's how she looked when I got her: More to follow soon, as those who have seen her know, she don't look quite like this any more. Discuss here if you wish : //
  17. Test test test, 1, 2, 3.
  18. Discuss. Project thread. // Chur.
  19. Build Thread Home and tucked up in the garage
  20. Fire away.
  21. Kia Ora! Brief history of my 'Rona. I bought at the end of last year to be my daily drive. It was good nick with just over 230k's on the clock and on the test drive it felt nice and tight apart from one knock coming from the back. The knock was from the exhaust hitting the tow bar which resulted in getting a new rear muffler. I opted to get from the axle back a 2" exhaust set up with a "sports" muffler to give a nice rumble. Also when I picked it up from the previous owner he gave me a set of lowering springs for the front end so I chucked them in. After driving around like this for a wee while I noticed the radiator leaking/showing signs of "wetting" and rotting. Time for a rad swap! I used a Scarles Civic "half rad" as it was cheap and was going to be easy to make some brackets to install. I also figured, even though it is small it would still do a better job of the current set up. The factory shroud for the fan wouldn't fit the new rad and I had a spare electric fan off my GT4 project so I figured I would ditch the old clutch fan as well. Simple brackets to make it fit in the factory location. Welded up thanks to DKM over in Wairau. At the same time as replacing the rad, I needed to fix an exhaust leak and clean out the starter motor. When I took the exhaust manifold off I noticed a leak coming from the welch/frost/core plugs. Turns out they were almost rusted all the way through so in went a new set of those. After seeing the inside of the water jackets I decided that it would be best to change the water pump as well and for piece of mind I got a new thermostat and a couple of gaskets. This is what the final install looked like. I'm yet to wire in my thermo switch for the fan so currently its on all the time. After dorting around like this for maybe 3 weeks I notice a coolant leak coming from around the head/coolant inlet pipe. I figured it would just be one of the new gaskets that I put in not sealing but after more investigation I found some oil mixed in with coolant dribbling down the side of the block. Bugger. Head gasket was on the way out. I've never really cracked open a motor before and on my GT4 I had the motor rebuilt professionally but that cost me an arm and a leg and the neighbours dog. Seeing as the Corona had a very simple 3T motor I thought I would get amongst and do it myself. After whipping the head off it was easy to see where the head gasket was failing. The whole motor was actually looking in bad shape. It was obvious that there hadn;t been any actual coolant run through the motor for quite some time as there was heaps of corrosion in the head and the water galleries on the block where pretty bad as well. After stripping and cleaning the head I decided that it would be best to get it acid dipped to get ride of all the crap out of it and depending on how that came up whether or not to get it surfaced. Whilst tidying up the rest of engine bay I poked around the lifters for the push rods and discovered really sludgy oil with way to much grit and grim in it. What condition was the bottom end it??? The decision was made and after a long night I pulled the motor and gearbox out (go simple old school cars that only need one person) and stripped it right down. The oil pan had heaps of crap in it so I'm glad I did. I sent all the essentials to West Auckland Engine Reconditioners and they acid dipped the crank, pistons, rods, head and all the other stuff. New bearings where ordered (after struggling to find any) and piston rings and gasket sets for the whole motor. The rebuilders honed the block, polished the crank, skimmed the fly wheel and surfaced the head. I put the head back together on the weekend and I picked up the rest of the parts yesterday.
  22. So last year I decided I wanted a project can so started hunting around. Being young and dumb I sold my 96 Toyota levin and got my self a 1975 Corona from a friend of a friend. The car had been sitting in her shed for around 4yrs. on first inspection I could tell it needed a lot of work. So I came back with a friend to try get it running. I told myself that if we couldn't get it started it was a no go. After giving it a quick once over topping up fluids and having to go get some fuel we managed to pull start it. So I handed over the cash and drove it home... Great start. First issue presented itself as I got home in the form of a split fuel hose. First things replaced: Fuel hose and filter, oil and filter change and a new set of tyres. Next I started work on the rust. This took me months and is still on going. I have done all work myself so far with assistance from my old man and a mate once or twice. Fast forward to 2015 the car has not had any work done in a few months but I'm back on track to getting it up and running. State of the car: it is running a 18RGEU from a Celica GT and 5speed gearbox to match (done by previous owner) car has been lowered and a ridiculous muffler has been installed as well (also by previous owner). The car is currently primer grey (used to be orange) and still has a little bit of rust to deal with but nothing major. I am in the process of getting the engine running properly, having issues getting a spark. Ruled out spark plugs, coil, igniter. I replaced the main coil lead as it was faulty so replaced it but still no joy. can't wait to get it on the road! (Photos are of how it looked when I first got it)
  23. Discussion thread: // Once upon a time i went off roading with a mate and decided it was fun playing in the mud. a period of time went by and I was driving my dads safari to work and was like yeah... I could put up with this. So i did some research and semi decided i wanted something with a solid front and rear end, that would be easy to maintain and relatively reliable. I thought about a Safari as I really like my dads but decided they were a bit out of my price range. So i though Toyotas are pretty bulletproof... so HiLux? Did a bit more hunting and found heaps of IFS ones. Eventually some solid axle ones turned up and i narrowed it down to two i was interested in. One being a real tidy 1990 single cab with brand new tyres, Rego, Wof and harldy any issues. The other being well the complete opposite. yet again the heart ruled over the head... So i towed home this ratty and rusty hilux because i liked the earlier front end rather than the newer one. Looking back it wouldve been easier to buy the later model one and source a earlier set of guards ect from a wreckers I knew it had a bit of rust in places in the body, but everything else appeared to be sweet and it drove fine. The more poking around I actually did after i got it home revealed actually how crappy it was. As i was told my one of my mates 'Ive seen better in a junkyard' and as i researched more about it there was way more missing, cut out or just not there in general than I realised. The surface rust in the fire wall and floor turned into a hole, after stripping the interior to see the extent of the rust i found it had got into the wiper channel aswell. the bit of rust in the sills turned in to big holes. The aftermarket bucket seats were barely held in by dodgy looking brackets. someone had cut a gaping hole in and the lower part of the radiator support was missing also. rear brakes were seized and pedal disappeared to the floor. and the chassis/components had copped a can of black over the top of dirt/grease/muck which was peeling off. But on a better note. The set of pretty much brand new 33x12.5 mud tyres my dad had on his pajero fit this, Its got a 2in lift on EFS springs, and the same on the body. The LSD in the rear appears flamin tight, and it fitted 99% of my wants from a fourby. Plus its a HiLux... There pretty much bullet proof. (well I dont think TopGear tested that, but it withstood pretty much everything they could drop on it, it off, drive it in to, going for a swim and their genral crazyness) Now ive had this a couple of months actually and in the doing so proceeded to start removing things to inspect/clean/repair/or replace as applicable, But that went way further than intended. Once the interior was removed, and the gearbox was out to replace the clutch, the engine came out too because it was too dodgy leaving it there without a rear mount, Dad and i decided that it was 6 bolts and we could lift the body off real easy to get rid of the gunk on the chassis. So we did. Next thing the chassis had been completely stripped and bare metalled, leaf springs split to individual leaves and both diffs dissassembled and everything has been given the once over. The chassis was covered in about a centimeter of gunk on the outside and we probably got about 10L of sand out if the inside of the chassis. Im pretty sure theres still more in there but weve shaken it, flipped it, banged it, and blown it out as best as we possibly can. So im quite happy with it Both diffs were dissassembled, baremetalled, and inspected. The front axle seals were leaking so the steering knuckle was full of an oil/grease mixture which smelt fantastic. apart from that both diffs checked out, So Ive etch primed and painted both diffs black reassembled them and ordered a swivel kit for the front. The chassis been etchprimed and blacked also. Hopefully itll stick a bit better and also make future cleaning of it alot easier. During all that, The leaf springs have been cleaned up and painted as well as the associated componentry. Every single Ubolt fought with me when being undone. My rattle gun wouldnt crack them and ended up having to use a meter long pipe over a power bar to undo them and then they all proceded to break or bend. So new EFS ones were ordered off 4WDBits with a EFS shackle bush kit. which were installed along with the reassembled leaf springs onto the chassis Excuse the tiny little tyres, but its alot easier to work on with them on The front leaf springs have been put back in and the diffs almost ready to go in aswell, but i managed to drop the hub on my foot and now have a cast on it for a week to immobilse it while whatevers wrong with it fixes itself. So hopefully thats off by the end of the week and itll just have to be strapped up. So lesson learnt. HiLux hubs plus feet = Less than ideal
  24. discussion thread for my project ae70 4age drop. fire away
  25. ok here we go, 1982 flat front AE70 currently running 3a-u with webers and lumpy cam. rings have pretty well gone so its time for a 4age. here is the car as is currently: link to discussion thread here: //