Ranter

Surely the nice one was registered before, go down to the place thats going to re-vin it and get them to run the chassis number and check. No one will care about the engine number or colour change. You could also pretend the you have done up the rusty one to make it simple, when you own both cars and ones gone its hardly conversion. You can buy the plates also and stamp you own numbers on it to suit, a lot of Minis have had that done. I don't think you anything to worry about, unless it was previously stolen.

I do that all the time, by the time they find the faults in the system they have already inspected the car and are happy to pass it. I usually just say this has been failed, I don't agree. You check it out and see what you think. Its easier and cheaper to recheck some faults then agrue with a WOF inspector on a power trip who won't back down.

Should need just a normal old non ballast coil. It might be one of a few problems. Here is a blurry pretty much pointless photo: Could take better ones 2morrow if required. What are the extra wires from?

This is not 1 of the pair from Phillips St is it? I think I know the car anyway will keep an eye out locally.

^Exactly, the old 2e Toyota engine was awesome at it. Carbs were shit at hot starting, they would fill the sump with fuel. People would rebuild em without fixing the cause and the fresh engine would eventually burn oil again or worse. Used to get brand new short blocks from Toyota for $700 and fit a NZ carb with a manual choke. I've recently done a old Hillman SV, car had not been going since the 60's so I wasn't real happy not being able to do the usual run in + in and out of the workshop each day is not good. The original trip around the block is all it needed. Its one of those topics, everyone has different ways and opinions, stick to what has worked for you before or take the best of what you have read, I'm just saying don't be afraid to load em up early.

I've run in heaps of engines mainly Jappas and old English stuff. I have never used running in oil. As posted before I just make sure there is nothing wrong like an oil leak or more importantly a air lock in the cooling system, then hit the hills. I also use the brakes to load the engine straight off. I have never had one fail or burn oil (even in massive patch ups) and I can only drive between 20km and 40kms before handing them over to the owners. Idling is what kills them, running large carbs untuned or similar would also hurt I have never seen or heard of new engines having running in oil, and have fitted brand new engines before, did nothing different than normal. They don't really do the 500/1000/1500km check anymore, more like 15000/20000km.

I had a Diamante in last week with similar sounding problem, owner/carshark thought motor was stuffed and it sounded like it. Different engine but it was the cambelt tensioner and thats why the noise went away with revs. When I removed the inspection panel behind the wheel I could see oil had leaked out of it and was simple enough to replace without having to remove the large alloy mounting bracket.

Prefer R34 GTR alloys, Out of interest does it have purple rocker covers? Built one with a mate a number of years back, was sold randomly on TM. Was spec s aeros, 34 wheels etc.

Yeah not having a go at you, had just been dealing with a pack of RB heads and it wound me up. I hope there aren't too many dickheads to fuck the day up.

What town? Are you going to go all the way to Victoria Park? Sure the cars will make it that far? Why not go somewhere where there isn't hundreds of people/families/dogs/mountain bikers etc to piss off and car parking for more than 5 cars, just a thought. Looks like a boy racer cruise, I bet r32's are OldSkool now

Austin 1800 or MGB GT use spin on filters so use an adaptor from them. Most late model B series engines also had spin on filters.

Is that a van down the end? Felixx have you seen the anglebox at Stewarts out by the Airport? I believe its open to the public now. Anyway a mate/customer has restored it better than new and sold it to them, I think its even on a revolving platform. I must try to make the next meet, in something suitably British.

Send her back in to explain the problem, wrong advice from employee there has caused her car to be of no value, although she must have filled out a form. No joy go higher (they will provide info about who to talk to) I find going in there and laying down the law gets you nowhere however they do have the ability to reverse their mistakes, if you can pull out some b/s about the earthquakes and stress etc it may work. I know of a couple of lapsed cars being put back on the system due to earthquake delays, closed shops and basically good bullshitters. Good luck

Wonder if they mean ignition module like earlier Hondas suffer from, if so fit a second hand distributer which will still be rather pricey or check electrical places for replacement one.

My experience is perfectly explained in the above post, only had to do one timing chain though and a couple of head gaskets. One a customer bought one from a high profile importer here which had never had a service and the oil was like grease, rather than whinging about it we just cleaned it all up explained to him it was likely a timebomb, unfazed he put about 80,000kms on it before trading. To me thats a pretty robust engine, interestingly they have gone back to the 4d56 in the latest Tritons although it seems to be of little relation to the previous engines.

Does that mean changes to who runs all the events? Assuming they ditch NZDRA. Because any change to who runs the show out there can only be of benefit to all, their organisation and communcation skills has lost hundreds of potential racers over the years.

A WOF is a safety check, I would have thought in the interests of safety he would have checked it so you knew what was wrong with it/taken your wad of cash. He doesn't have to put his name on anything if he is so sure it is going to fail. Did he at least inform you what he was going to fill the list up with? Yeah hit a VINZ, I take some old stuff to the airport branch as the inspectors are more on to it when it comes to the older stuff.

^Been using him for ten years or more on all types of vehicles. The best in my opinion.

Awesome pic.

Make sure its not a tyre by fitting spare or by swapping wheels front to rear. If its the bearing buy a second hand hub, easier and cheaper considering the value of your car. If you decide to wreck it, good. Our one was flood damaged in the quake and I could used some electrical bits. haha

Make your own timing marks with a paint pen, let the tension off the belt and fit a new one. You will suss it real quick.

Sounds like you have tried the usual tricks, did you replace shoes on both sides? It not the other side reading too high? If the other sides shoes have been contaminated you will never get them equal, and last face it Mini brakes don't normally trouble those machines the needles barely move. If all new shoes then as above take it for a decent drive, I use the handbrake to slow sometimes to speed the bedding in process.

Just watch that is not from an auto car or after 2002 as they are plain bearing also.

Are you still using the valvemaster?? If so replace plugs and never use it again, it is crap. Back when the fuel switched I had an Escort that I used valvemaster in, it used to foul plugs weekly which I put down to poorly tuned side drafts. Stopped using the additive combined with a long open road trip and it never fouled a plug again.

I think you have to add a bolt first before you can turn it, maybe a thread too. Usually I remove the plugs and turn by the fan.