Testament

I'm getting my milkshake

For the yearly fix of eye watering dirt and meth and mouth watering speedway sauce and Woodstock's complete with 9000rpm pushrods screaming k series drifting signage and your favourite dirtbag crowd. Will look to gather somewhere up in the nosebleeds after getting that close up meth fix

Just the tip

bangers and keybangers

It's been an eventful summer for this thing so I guess to recap on things painted the sill swapped out gearbox with nunged 4th gear did a bunch of things to get it properly certified Did some drag racing got a cert plate broke a clutch cable went to leadfoot festival broke another clutch cable wailed on it around taupo racetrack wailed on it around national park broke an axle won some awards replaced an axle found a strange/mystery intermittent electrical fault that turns the ecu off and back on at random intervals things to do solve electrical fault tidy up engine bay install water injection tuning, if necessary ecu upgrade to something fully sequential to allow individual cylinder trimming probably another gearbag/131 box as 3rd on this one pops out on decel after the racetrack session..... pictures not sure if this is melted from 100+deg intake temps under overrun or backfires, cant have been helping either way. replaced it for now but need to look for a higher temp/more robust fast response IAT sensor really.

/K swap

VR1 has plenty of ZDDP and comes up on sale at supercheap pretty often/what I have been nanging in the 124. not sure if thats a full or a semi synth though. but yeah 20w50 on a newly rebuilt nang spec motor and oil pressures that high seems a little much.

usually such adaptor items are for pipe stuff/threads not bolt threads so pretty unlikely to find something on the shelf can you not just use a high tensitle M14 and a sleeve? whats the bigger picture here as it is a odd thing to require.

quite a lol on that recent engine masters youtube video but I did note they only squashed the individual tubes not post collector flow you note that there is only 1% or 2% difference between 2.5" and 2.25" or whatever i some of the cases there, but if you are chasing all the HP's then even at only 200hp - that is 2-4hp, which may be what is needed to hold off that pesky honda with its factory high flow head and 3" bee swarm. also 0.3psi doesnt sound like much, but consider you only have 14.7psi putting air in at the front/that you have to overcome to get that stuff back out funny that 0.3/14.7 = 2% and given that bernoulli applies here too, and you have to accelerate the flow to a higher velocity with a smaller pipe entropy will be fighting you more there too (although entropy fights your everywhere and you can't win)

speaking of shops for such things, are there any nz web shops that will send you this stuff? or need to just figure out exactly whats needed and get on the phone all barry like to get them to send it to smalltownland?

would probably weld better if I had some welds?

made a tree Started gluing things together

Anyone seen someone with a bottle of argon and a bottle of co2 and mixing them in situ for MIG welding?

I think returnless system is something to do with simplifying manufacturing and maybe fuel vapour stuff or something like that. re fuel cooling. its much easier to reject energy from a hotter source e.g. you can reject the smae amount of energy from the hot thing to the cold thing faster with 1x hotter thing to cold thing, than 2x not quite as hot thing hot thing with half the energy (i.e. same total engery but at lower heat) to same cold thing. funny that the rule of this was discovered by a guy called carnot.

Im registering 1x interest in this

manu has a point in that a "3 gal" dive tank or similar at 3000psi has the equivalent of "45 gal" of air in it your problem is getting a pump that will do those much higher pressures, plus a reliable pressure reducing valve and saftey valve such that you dont blow the downstream stuff to bits. also downside is that high pressure compressor will no doubt take some time to fill the tank unless it is half the size of the car. my guess is in most cases putting a second pump and a bigger tank at 200psi is simpler and easier because you can just buy the stuff and know it works and requires less one off engineering. plus finding a high pressure air compressor that is not a big one for filling dive bottles is going to be hard.

pumps have to be set to shut off when the engine is not running if its going to be certed to teched for NZDRA or MSNZ - so no fuel = no engine running = no pump running ? the amount of time the pump will run "dry" is going to be bugger all and it wont be 100% dry. you can also return the pressure pump to the surge tank which will help. provided the lift pump has more capacity than the fuel use most of time (it pretty much has to anyway) and you have a line returning to main tank from the surge tank fuel heating will not be an issue. as you say pressure sensor is more belt and braces way to do it but even that is not infallible.

I got a china spec gun like that blue one above, rookiedave put it through the gun cleaner machine at his spraypainter mates shop and all the anodizing fell off haha still havent used the gun though /useless post

13.5mm then careful tidy up of the surface with scotchbright or fine sandpaper seems to work ok, at least on the fuel rail end. definitely err on the small side. I wouldnt go much larger as remember the hole always ends up larger than the drill bit. proper thing would be to ream to size which will get it rounder too but really if you err on the tight side and a the surface finish is OK the o ring will seal it up.

I run the fiat in semi sequential mode with half of the fuel finishing injection just before IVO - not sure of the exact degrees though plus I think MS uses a different reference point. but same same really onto the hot valve before IVO.

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1273330

oh wat. you cheated! I thought you were using old beave for this operation

would depend on the geometry of the drop spindle. and as clint mentioned the factory spec was not great to start with. so basically this type of thing essentially but to fit valiant steering gear?

yeah make certain you have the output you are using for spark B selected to that and not to idle control or fan switch/some other random thing. we blew up coils on my mates LS landcruiser like that having it selected to some always on type of output.