0fnsiv

Mmmmmm.......and the securing bolt holes?

What grade and brand of oil are you using? When was the last oil change done?

Y44 from a President..... Period piece JDM wheels, like techno stars or Yayoi

There's like a million different versions, from Aussie toyota 4 cylinder to V8..... They were used behind 304 Holdens and 302 Fords.......from memory the V8 box will handle 200 odd hp. Best bang for buck is the TKO box from a late 90's mustang..... 500 ftlb 500hp supposedly......

Use a tremac t5 box from v8 falcon commodore camaro mustang etc....a clutch will be cheap and easy to obtain as will be a hydraulic release bearing set-up they have a basic 4 bolt pattern used to secure it to a piece of plate that you could weld or bolt to the auto bell housing....and there's a multitude of shifter options...a new box is only like $2k off eBay.....

Use a 16 x 2 die nut, it won't be full formed but it will have enough to crank a nut up tight

Yes, negative earth yes, no vacuum advance Never used one of those, but they look the nuts

S14 silvia?

Say 'NO' to Walboro....they're rubbish! Genuine 044 for the win and reliability. -8 for tank to surge to pump to engine, -6 for engine to surge tank(return), -4 for surge vapor to tank and tank vapor This way the carter(good choice) will actually keep positive pressure on your 044. Fill the surge from the top,with the return higher and the vapor higher if possible and feed the 044 from the bottom of the surge, even though the returned fuel will be a few degrees higher the flooding action of the carter will pretty much make it a non event......

Gillespie Engineering, talk to Malcolm or Colin

Will it keep running if you squirt engine start in the intake?

In the sump.....

Air locker.......best investment money can buy........ Locked when you want controllability under power, and freewheeling for pushing around in the shed.....

Finding any info for Borg-Warner is going to be difficult, they sold their gearbox business to Tremec in 1998. To be honest they have been fitted to everything from Toyota coronas to Mustangs and depending on what the factory fitment is will dictate how good it is(not). Factory fitted falcon and Holden boxes are not bad, good for around 300hp but as they get older the selectors can cause shifting to be more of an effort and they will quite often break when being downshifting or big engine braking (with a heavy vehicle/trailer). World class gearboxes fitted to Mustangs and Camaros are good for around 400, but I found if you going to go to the expense of importing a gearbox then might as well buy a Tremec TKO they shift hard handle big power and getting an awesome clutch is as easy as www.summitracing.com

Not a bad effort, user effort is minimal, but still not as powerful for 3d as surfcam or nx - edges can still be 'chunky' and has a nasty habit of gouging if you are trying to high speed finish

Straight 60w pennsoil.......or hold at 3000 and feed the carb a bottle of brasso........ Followed by 500ml of water/kero mix and a lovely Sunday cane

FYI, there's a guy in Howick selling E100, around $1.90 a litre ($1.70 if you buy a 205litre) mix at a ratio of 85% ethanol, 15% 98 octane petrol, and you have e85 This ethanol already has corrosion inhibator added, and I know of 3 guys with big budget/fuel burners that are using it with no issues

yep....first check the voltage across the battery itself to get your 'benchmark'...... check the ecu earth is clean and the voltage doesnt fluctuate to much while its running....use the fans and headlight highbeam to see if the voltage drops.....make sure there is good earths (note multiple) on the engine block to the chassis(preferably direct to the battery pole).... If the battery is 'in the boot' it may pay to run a negative lead direct to the bell housing.....

check the voltage at the ecu.......use the power and earth closest to the main ecu plug..... if you dont have 13.5+ volts it could be the problem.....

golden rule of thumb......do them all if they're steel if one has corroded, the others wont be far behind.....

Or get some studs made with a larger knurl and bore the holes to suit the new studs..........

First things first.......try a suspension shop (ie Autolign) or an older business that specializes in suspension repair, because its not what the computer screen says that matters, its the fact that the factory geometry becomes so f@*ked up you need someone that know how th counter the fact that those Valiants and E and A body mopars run positive camber and negative caster.....old cross ply technology......not big fat juicy radial technology negative caster, positive camber...... Or buy some wide oval Firestones....... https://www.universaltire.com/firestone-tires/firestone-wide-oval/f60-15-firestone-wide-oval-raised-white-letter.html

any 4 bar kit for an escort or capri rendering the kiddie/the mrs' mates seats completely useless..... and to be honest doesn't work so well without a cage...... Re packing leaves means that the leaves are disassembled, re-tensioned, reassembled with new bands.... personally I'd get the single leaf conversion from the UK.....thats what most people who race them do

had your springs re packed? a watts linkage or panhardt is absolute useless with leaf springs and leaves work well when they're good...... there's heaps involved with coiling it.....like re-inventing the wheel...... and to be honest not really worth it unless you're doin targa or rally....get your springs repacked or get a single leaf conversion......

still got leaf springs?