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I have, what is guess is, a coin purse from the 1950s. It's about 2mm too small to put a bank card in, and pull back out easy. So I made one slightly bigger, original has 3 sections, but I made this one 2. Just sealed the edges, will sand them down tomorrow to tidy them up Water lizard skin, with nz lamb interior. Aaaannnd wife has claimed it. So il probably make another just out of leather for me Sewed with my vickers machine. It flew through even the 4 layer bits like it wasn't there.

Yeah ken

Jeeze I just spotted this on Trademe - speak of the bloody devil! https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/holden/brakes/listing/4706364924?bof=Fx6hYD2b

I have owned this car for the past 3 years. It has had a 3.3 engine and a cresta rear end installed. The front end has been gone through with rebuilt ball joints and shocks all around. New dual exhausts that cackle. I have an overdrive that is going to be assembled and installed. The 65 front grill is because I had a 65 when I was in my 20’s. Photo from Kumeu two years ago.

Guess same spot same time in a month @- i5oogt -?

Was Ken for a burger but just not able at moment. Mushroom burger sounds decent!

Cheers @deankdx, the idea has crossed my mind. But that wont stop it from happening again, if i take it all apart i can rustkill and paint everything as it goes back together.

Yeah I'd like to put some blue and black on it to match the rest of the bike. Just happy to get some white on it and get it rolling. Went for a ride with a mate on Tues and had my speedo cluster come off/brake. Had been watching one on trademe for the last 4 weeks. Rang him and picked it up and changed it while we were out and about haha. Squshed my quadlock phone holder onto it and held it in place while we rode to the guys house. Speaking of quadlock, I got that and some wing mirrors off Aliexpress. Happy with the quadlock stuff and how the mirrors look. But they don't hold well at 100kph, the move a lot so I might have to find some none Aliexpress mirrors that look similar

that rust in the plenum, before you drill out 100s of spot welds. just check from under side if they are accessible (from under the dash) you may need to turn the car on it's side/upside down, or weld upside down (liquid metal falls in your elbow vein if not wearing leather sleeves) I've seen it done twice now welded from this side when the majority is solid. (have also seen just a section of the plenum cut out rather than the whole thing) just thought i'd mention it as an option before you get into it.

The last one of those I did , needed extra mounts , as the tank was a lot bigger than original but still bolted in with 4x 8mm bolts or whatever an rx3 has Plus sealing the boot, making sure fuel can't leak onto electrical or exhaust etc

Is there a mobile vehicle compliance option in the waikato? Working on a project thats not mobile yet.

Oh, forgot to mention there are at least 2 more holes in the opposite end of that cowl. And the reason for that? Ford never painted the steel lower panel, or the undersides of the upper for that matter. Same as all the panelwork hidden by the front guards, can't see it? Save the paint for somewhere else...

It raises a question, as I'm sure the likes of the PAC Performance tanks can be certed, but they have fittings in the boot area, and lines no doubt running through the factory in boot locations.

Dash is out! Has been for a week or so but i forgot to take pics. And if we look under the wiper panel... We see this ballsache in the making. If you look through the smaller of the 2 support gusset holes you can see a nice rust hole. So i have approx 200 spotwelds to drill out to split the cowl panels apart and see how bad it really is. That can wait until engine is out though so i have somewhere to stand.....and cry.

Been a while since I discussed it with @cletus for my application, but from what I remember, its more to do with the connections inside the vehicle. So if you have hose connections/clamps that could possibly break or leak, or any sort of flanged/removable connection, then there is a chance fuel vapor could get into passenger cabin if there was a slight leak etc. Which is why sealing off the boot is needed. In my case, all the fuel fittings were under the floor, but because the filler neck passed through cabin and it had 2 hose clamps connecting filler neck to tank, I had to seal it off. I could be wrong but I think we established that if I made a fancier filler neck connection under floor with a low profile o-ringed flange or something like that then I wouldn't have need a sealed off cover. But I'm not sure about whether sealing is required if you have a 100% sealed tank with all connections/fittings under floor when you do a carb to efi swap. Probably depends on how your tank is setup. If you intank pump has a flanged access point inside the boot like Kellys surge pot does, then that would likely be classed as a potential leak point.

Anybody have a rear wheel for this just a normal pocket bike wheel shipping from Auckland makes me want to cry so might as well see if someone has one

So the tank came out, pretty easy all in all. 4 bolts and two straps and it drops straight down. There does need to be a bit of room so I lifted her up onto the big ramps again. Shes pretty claggy down in the hole; And here is the most obvious culprit, the joiner between the filler and the tank. ; I ordered a silicone joiner of the correct diameters which arrived promptly. I took the tank to the local radiator place and he reckoned I needed to split it open to sandblast the inside. We settled on cutting big holes in either side, and he said he could just solder it up again. This he did, and did a tidy job, but he reckoned it was so glazed on the inside it took 4 hours to blast it properly poor boy. He ended up coating the inside of the tank, so unfortunately the paint kit that @dmulally sent me expressly for this purpose will not be used.... Not on this job anyway. So I got it back today and chucked it in, somehow without managing to take any pics, and its all up and running. I'll have to balance the carbs again but it runs ok. While I waited for the tank to get sorted I tidied a few other things, I sourced a relay that @vk327 suggested, and wired that in to run the fuel pump. There is a signal that comes from the starter to prime the pump when cranking, but I wired that to a button on the dash so I could just podge it to get things going if it has been sitting for a while. I also pulled the cluster (fuck) to put an incandescent bulb in place of the LED so the charging circuit would excite properly. This was a bit of a fudge as the tiny bulbs dont seem to be particularly available, so I filed the hole a bit bigger for a bigger holder/bulb of which I had spares. This worked out ok surprisingly. Ill tune it up in the weekend then see what else breaks

Small world eh? It was a mutual friend of ours that had the red one on OZ rims that I mentioned a page or two back, and likely what gave Paul the itch that his GTIR scratched.

Ling, but superMeows are a crime against humanity. You should be banned for even suggesting it.

I use that at work and A1 radiators here in chch also use it. Use twice what the can reccomends and make it thinner too. Takes a long time to dry properly

Compression test will show that up real quick. Or otherwise does it sound like it's catching all 4 conpessuons when cranking on the starter? If it's down a cyl it will sound like it's skipping. Otherwise Perkins industrial motors are often noisy and not nice to be around. But they tend to go forever

Being a Holden 6 cyl. junkie from way back I’m loving your build, nothing better than a pink HQ with a 6 in it! The HQ master cylinders were never the world’s most reliable and when combined with the big single diaphragm Mastervac booster they were best described as being only adequate. I could never figure why they didn’t fit a tandem booster as BPR were supplying them for other Aussie cars at the time. The bad news is that brake fluid in your booster is usually fatal, there’s a small indentation in the booster body where the m/cyl is mounted that is supposed to act as a drain in the event of a m/cyl failure. If the fluid has been leaking out from there you may get away with replacing the input seal; if fluid has made its way through to the booster it’s a matter of when rather than if the booster diaphragm fails. Easiest way to check for fluid in the booster is to remove the vacuum check valve and grommet and poke your finger in there - (I could make a rude innuendo but I won’t!). You can still get HQ booster kits (diaphragm, input & pushrod seal and reaction disk) in Aussie, I haven’t bought a kit for a while so can’t guess the price but the m/cyl’s are bloody expensive. My preferred fix is to fit a Commodore VT to Vx M/cyl and Booster. You need to make up a firewall spacer/adaptor but it’s a simple modification, the pedal feel is improved with the tandem diaphragm Mastervac and the parts are cheap as chips 2nd hand.

J5 wrote what I was thinking. Sounds a lot like an exhaust valve not closing. I bought a cheap USB endoscope for peeking into impossible to see places, probably slim chance having one of those on the island though. https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLRaVpk

Hah. Yea that's the guy

thats probably what im in for