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There is obviously water and rusty clag in my tank, If it is bad enough to need treatment I would like peoples opinions and experiences with various products. There is a POR15 product that looks ok but with the internet being essentially the rancid fromage found under your uncles foreskin, I would like some real world experience.... Thanks very muchly.

Also, Load up your order with sparkplugs for your other whips (that are in the same warehouse) As they're like 2.50 each and essentially free shipping!! Stock in stock.

Fingers crossed! Non entry compliance makes it a bit easier for sure. Also, before you sumbit your rockauto order, use one of these: https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/57663-rock-auto-discount-codes I'm assuming you've used rockauto before? If not, make sure to select parts from the same warehouse to save shipping. Also, i need to come up for a visit one weekend to see your pad!

2 months since an update, been working on the car when time allows. I'll start with the rear, I removed all the show car boxed in boot trim, moved the battery to the RH side and purchased a proper cert spec Moroso battery box, far better than just having the battery tie downs just hooked through the floor sheet metal as it was before. Bonus is I can actually run a spare wheel now too! After much thought, I decided to try a high pressure pump and surge tank combo, to save space, should be ok for what I'm trying to achieve. All new speed flow push lock AN fittings, and brand new carter lift pump. Fire extinguisher also mounted for a bit of piece of mind, will also fit another one in the cabin. Also had an O2 sensor bung fitted at the exhaust merge to assist with tuning once up and running. Although it all needs a clean, I'm trying not to be as fussy with detailing on this build, as I really don't want another long term time consuming project again.

Lidar on the iPhone definitely helps quality. Unfortunately I'm running android and I was not impressed with the photo scanning.

Are @tomble and @kws brothers from a different mother?

I never pay attention to the guessometer. It's wrong no matter what the battery % is. It's best to look at the % readout if you have it on your leaf, you should. My experience with 76%~ SOH 26kW leaf... 86km round-trip work commute, a heavy foot and a penchant for cruising in the fast lane at cheeky fractions of the speed limit: no problem in summer, but sometimes got home with 5-10% left in particularly cold rainy winter days. Girlface managed 20-30% though so totally fine for better drivers. Could get to Palmy and back with a stop in Otaki to get to 80% each way (and an 80% stop in Palmy). Upper Hutt to Wellington airport and back is fine in summer, probably want to stop at the pak n save on the way back in winter. Charging to 100% is fine, don't nickle and dime the battery, it'll drop regardless of what you do. edit: oh and my leaf's speedo reads 10% under the real value, apparently it's pretty much all leafs that do this and is why you often see leafs crawling in the slow lane at 90. edit 2: you're going to fucking love this coming winter when you find out you can set the climate control to have everything warmed up and the seat ready to heat your arse when you jump in for your morning commutes.

I soaked one I forgot about for years with durapox and enamel stuck in it in plain old gunwash, in a hot bath a couple times. Then Let it soak, scrubbed daily, and r4placed th3 gunwash in it every few days Some pipe cleaners delt to the rest. Wasn't that bad tbh

So it wasnt running quite right last time I went out, it started after taking a spirited left hander, and I had to curtail todays supply run as the problem persisted. So tonight I pulled the carbs to see what gunk was blocking things up, and it turned out to be a noticeable amount of water. I stripped both and blew out the passages then reassembled. That carboard surface was a great idea as it turned out cos the petrol soaked in and the water sat on the top which made it super obvious thats what was going on. Interestingly someone has fitted some proper 32mm chokes, I recall the ones I had on it were 28mm that had been bored to 33ish in a rough manner. It all looked pretty good in there tbh. But I suspect tomorrows effort will be siphoning out the tank....

I’ve scored a conventional spray gun that’s been sitting for years. It’s been left unwashed for quite a while. Anyway I managed to get the pot off the bottom, it tore the seal unsurprisingly. I managed to get the needle out and strip it down to the best of my abilities. I’m assuming it is enamel as person I got it off would only work with enamel. Anyone know what I can soak this turd in to get rid of the build up? Also is the saying “you can put enamel over lacquer but not lacquer over enamel” correct? I want to use a high build primer underneath that I think will be lacquer I don’t trust paint shops after the Vulcan paint debacle….

Hopefully the rust repairs won’t get picked up on the revin, it’s already been in the system so should make things a bit easier. Rockauto looks mint, so far the shopping list is new ignition parts, new gaskets, and 2 push rods, and brake parts haha I’m sure the list will grow even more too!

Short answer is no. Long answer is maybe, with a lot of fucking around. Lvvta has said you can make a new bar if you can prove it's the same as the original one. This is all we've been given, there's nothing in the rules yet, this is from training

I've been messing around with Polycam on Iphone, $40 for the full app but also has a 7 day free trial, so far the results are pretty good

Sick. Rockauto for parts Hopefully it wont be too much of a ballache getting it revinned with the rust repairs.

Cool project

I do like that colour a lot. They look better in a darker colour (except black) than the lighter shades. Pricing is all over the place at the moment, mostly because half the people selling are trying to dump them before the RUC comes into effect, and the other half just want to upgrade to something newer, so it's split in the middle. Leafs (leaves?) with real bad battery SOH are a dime a dozen too, it takes a bit of work to pick through them and find one that has a good battery. Can confirm it can do Upper Hutt to Porirua and back on half a charge, even with the heater on. I can see why most Leaf owners avoid Transmission Gully though, that shit was brutal on the guess-o-meter, watching the ks drop away by the second. So far enjoying the car. It's a nice appliance. I'm driving it like a normal car currently and not really trying to hypermile, so I'm surprising a few people on the road by not being the slowest thing around. Traffic light drags are a laugh too. I do find that without the reassuring buzz of the ICE at certain RPM to judge my speed by, i find my speed tends to creep up a bit.

yep

MAY UncleJake update his cabin build thread?

Going back to this cock-up where I cut my bumper support bar to fit an intercooler. if I can't fit the cooler behind the stock one could I fit a bar from another car that accommodates an Intercooler? Just found one from my 06 vw golf In my roof that is a very close fit if I transferred the flanges over would that be acceptable? If not I'll probably look at cutting back the intercooler to fit under the stock bar.

Shortly after completing the above, I got sent to the states for a couple of weeks for work which killed all progress for obvious reasons. Still, I got to see a space shuttle and shit, so that was still pretty sweet. Once I got back, it was a matter of ticking off house jobs for a few weekends and various other stuff, all of which meant it was a month or two between finishing the thermostat housing and getting stuck back into the car. For reasons I've grown to despise, you'll recall I cut the rear quarter panel off the car over three years ago now. Given it is still not welded back on, this is still the main focus of the work. So far the list of jobs I wanted to do while the quarter was off has included: - Wheel tub outer repair DONE - Rear jacking point rebuild DONE - Inner sill brace section DONE - Inner sill/Floor outer repair DONE - Seat mount re-engineering DONE - Outer sill replacement DONE That leaves a very short list to complete before the quarter is ready to go back on. Namely: - Pinch weld seam repairs IN PROGRESS - Repair Cert IN PROGRESS - Properly paint inaccessible areas NOT YET STARTED That is unless I embrace a bit more scope creep... As one does, I was excitedly showing off my progress to my partner one day (who is lovely but doesn't pay too much attention to how I burn away my spare hours) when she noticed that there are no rear seat belts. "Of course my love, it's a 50 year old car" was my almost truthful reply. It was at this point that I was informed in no uncertain terms that under no circumstances would my small daughter be riding in a death trap like that. Which sucks, cause I have many fond memories of drives with my dad in old death traps, and I'd hate for my kids to miss out on the same. So we came to a deal. I'd put lap belts in the back. Diagonals were technically an option back in the day, but at the cost of a big ugly vertical bar the mounted the top hanger in the middle of the rear windows. While looking at how I could do that nicely, it occurred to me just how little effort had been put into any kind of side impact protection back in the day. It makes sense of course. There's a reason these old cars are so light compared to new ones. But it still isn't great. Given my track record with RWD cars (stacking only the second one I've ever owned on the first day of ownership at 18), and the likelihood of catching a rouge mum in a Q8 blowing through a roundabout in Dorkland, I figured it would be prudent to at least have a go at improving it a little bit. To begin with, I wanted to improve the door structure. Any improvements in the door itself would be largely pointless if the impact was able to tear it off the latch, so that was the first point of modification. When we wrecked the Capella for its V6 waaaay back in the day, we saved as much of the interior mechanicals as was practical. Because of that, I have a perfectly good burst-proof latch assembly that just needed to be grafted in. Initially, I just roughly mocked it up to give me a good idea of where the male part would need to mount. Once I had a good idea of where things would need to end up, it was simple enough to make a quick cardboard template to mock up the latch mounting arrangement. Note how it all tucks nicely behind the window track. Like it was meant to be there. Transferred it to steel, and added a 3mm doubler behind it to give the whole area a lot more strength. While I was in this corner I also took two seconds to fill in a speaker hole that I'm not planning to use. Before I got too far ahead of myself, I took the time to sort out the linkages to make sure I could use all the standard Escort parts still. I had to make my own key by taking the barrel out and reverse engineering it from each wafer, but it worked out fine in the end. Oh and splash out on a 3D printer. Been looking for an excuse to get one for a while anyway. Once I knew that would work, I got stuck into the brace itself. Each end is gusseted with 2mm sheet braces. The hinge/front end of the door already has a big 2mm spreader plate from factory, which the brace is welded directly onto, and the rear end is welded to the 3mm doubler I installed before. I opted to go for 25x50x3mm box, just cause I felt like moving the bare door around the garage was too easy and I could do with the extra weight training. Because I'm also a weak scrawny little runt though, I did cut a bit of gravity out of the inside face before installing it. The window and latch mechanisms all clear, and it looks pretty good on the car. So that's the door pretty much sorted. Next is to beef up the B pillar. It's all well and good having a strong door, but if the B pillar just folds in and drops the fence post in your lap anyway, it's all kind of moot. For this, I used a similar design. 3mm doubler welded to the wheel tub, 2mm gussets to the main member, a 25x50x3mm box section, and another 3mm doubler behind the door catch to transfer the load from it into the vehicle structure. And that's it. I've taken to thinking of these braces as "open casket bars". God knows they're probably not going to save anyone's life, but at least they might help give my ugly mug an open casket funeral. I'm also mentally justifying the extra weight and time spent with saying they'll stiffen the chassis up a bit. Probably just going to make the car slower in the end, but ah well, I'm a great believer in the sunk cost philosophy anyway. I've again got more stuff photographed and ready for writing about, but Imgur's hellishly poor usability totally killed my motivation to make updates recently. I've switched image hosts now, so I'll have a crack at writing a bit more in the near future to bring it all a bit more up to date. Cheers

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