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ill come if i can get a ride down in a Mazda

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As expected something shat itself, I would have been incredibly surprised had my *stress testing* over the weekend not opened a few cracks. It turns out that the occasional non start I had been experiencing was not the battery going flat, but the starter not playing the game. I pulled it tonight, the starter that is, and it spun up no problem on the bench but less so firing it with the solenoid. But the solenoid was clunking so it must be the contactor. Shortly afterwards some crispy was uncovered; I cleaned those contacts up, soldered it back together and reassembled, then had the old girl firing into life shortly afterwards. Nice. I have also had the weird situation where the resting voltage of the battery(s) after a run has been over 13v. I suspect the alternator might be overcharging but when I had it running I was seeing 14v at about 3000 revs. This is kindof weird anyway as the alt light does not come on, which is either a poor connection or blown lamp, but this also has an LED not an incandescent fitted, and I now know that theoretically this isn't enough to excite the alt anyway. It was on my list to fix when I got a chance, so I will investigate. Obviously I'll do more testing about the charging, including fitting the voltmeter I have ordered.

You seem to be missing all of the mercedes diesels. Also curious as to why you wouldn't consider common rail diesels, they are better in every way? just fyi om648 fits mint in a chev truck.

Yeah, NP I think. I don't really need barry level, just an adjustment on the speedo indication

Is that the new plymouth jokers? They are down the street from work. We have had mostly good results from them at work. Have used Robinson instruments with success also. Seem like knowledgeable barries with poor website skillz

Finally got a new alternator, an Aeroflow AF4273-1100 100A I'll be hooking this up '3-wire' which uses the warning light as an exciter and removing the stock external regulator. This gives me more ergs for upgrades later and the 3-wire hookup apparently makes it come on charge quicker. I may need to check the warning light later to see if it has a bypass resistor as without this the alternator will fail to come online if the bulb is blown. I was originally going to use the stock wiring but decided to bin it as it was untidy and would not carry enough current if I start to draw more than the stock power. The car also does not have alternator or battery fuses so I might add them later too but I want to work out a tidy install before I do that. I got it wired up on the bench and then looked at the car. First I took out the old regulator so I could work out what wires to remove They were buried in the main loom and used a wired molded plastic thingo you can just see in the last photo. Pain in the arse as I couldn't separate the wires without cutting this off. The loom was wire spaghetti so I also removed all of the wires from the started solenoid which is pretty much used as a positive terminal for everything. the wires I have are Black and yellow - power supply to fuse box Yellow - ammeter red - ammeter Red and blue - Starter switch Brown - odd extra wire to the solenoid that shorts it out. Was disconnected but can't quite work out what it does. Something to do with the coil and starting but not needed Black and red - ? Orange - regulator (removed) I could have thing wrong, the info online is a bit iffy and it changes with the year. I think the red/green wire from the regulator is the warning light but I can't confirm that. Might need a battery and a spare pair of eyes.

I would start off with that new fuel filter, you may have sucked in a bunch of crap from the tank. If that is OK fuel pressure would be the place to look. The connection to the vacuum source is to help regulate pressure correctly when the vacuum is high.

Another go at the fueling realised had base pressure wrong when I calculated it.... Re ran the calculation made very little difference to ms/g like 01ms so fudged it bumped it down 5ms. While i was In there I toggled off the EGR and set it run off a single narrowband sensor which I think I'll re fit next to the wideband as it's only 12 months old and car runs nice on these. Started up no longer stinks of fuel and started much easier. Now to let the car get up to temp and let the trims sort the rest out think im in ball park now. Also figured out a definition file glitch which was stopping me reading data on Tunerpro could flash in fine but information coming in was wildly inaccurate 28000rpm 1200c on inlet air temp. Pft

Only a Morrie, don't mention the hills

hope the car u gunna make her push, isnt too heavy

Thanks, talked to Auto Instrument Services who our mechanic suggested. I need to count the speedo cable turns while pushing the car 50 meters, wif is going to love helping with that,

Haven’t used them in 8 years but they they had a fast turn around and good price, they were really good at the digital speedos like in the soarers

This sounds terrible. Count me in!

Anyone used Robinsons for speedo calibration? OK? Timely service? Their website doesn't inspire confidence, but maybe they are better at doing things than building websites.

High chance I can make this and will confirm.

If you want a contact that has alot to do with barras in jetboats, he has installed ALOT and setup as raceboats and marathons etc. autosprky and very switched on fella. just dont be one of those guys that just ring him and suck dry on info info not buy stuff him LOL.

electronic pedal in a jetboat? barra tb has it as standard, and the old mechanical arrangement is absolutely rubbish,

Looking at the lvvta chip lookup page the cert is registered to the vin not the plate, my plate isn't even listed under vehicle details.

That’s why it also has the vin number on the tag

What's the go when a car with a cert gets new numberplates? Not when the plates it had when it got the cert have lapsed but if it gets changed to/from a personalised plate. Saw a car on the tard this morning that has a cert for seatbelt mounts but the personalised plate rego on the cert plate doesn't match the personalised plates on the car. The ad goes on to say that the plates on the car don't go with it and that it will have a standard issue plate at time of sale. Is the cert still legal or does it technically need to be redone with the new rego number even if nothing else has been changed?

It's not legal to do anything other than clean them with soap and water

How legal is it to “resto” my old white license plates rather than pay to get them re-made with the new font white plates? by resto I mean colour match the metallic grey-white colour and respray it with the numbers Matty B. It doesn’t have the security watermark thingy. already hammered out a lot of the dents, feeling like a bit of a Barry now.

Cool. I've just made a 'acme mount jig 2000', got my 5mm base plates bolted in and will pop to town for some 4mm plate.

I've assumed the 'ding hotel?