All Activity

15x7 offset 20

Chur Ill have a look...

Double banger!

Et38, not ideal....

Totp!

^ on an 80s wedge, oh hell yes. Do it. Speaking of 80s, I have a set of 14x6 meshies with (hard dry) direzzas 185 55s id be happy to see used? Pics early in my 125 thread. Incl shank bolts to go with. Also have some 13s?

How about these?

Would need to get the go ahead from lvvta For some reason , doing anything with lowering gvm is not possible every time I've asked So then you're stuck with whatever gvm it has, and any replacement hubs/suspension components have to be able to handle that load Going from 6 to 4 stud won't fly either for the same reason

Is it worth dicking round fitting a later model subframe into the ute (altezza or similar)? How would that go with certing obviously the better donor would be an mx5 due to it being narrower, but not sure about going from the 6 to 4 stud. the ute will never carry a load again and weighs less than an mx5 anyway. was just a thought.

@xsspeed for your viewing pleasure

Yup, these o rings are toast. Quick visit to seal imports here in Hamilton and 7 bucks later. A little amount of grease to help them slide in. Cause they were most definitely a snug fit this time round and they were all together again. Back on And all running again. Hope the weather does something great and I can head out for a ride double check it's running good on the open road. Mates also said I could use his balancer to balance the carbs. So might take him up on that, probably shoot to his house and do it there as he has a way better set up and plenty of garage space.

After clearing out the fuel system and sealing the lift pump leak the same trip took 36 mins this afternoon It's still hellishly noisy, but too wet and cold to pull the rocker cover off today

Ahh that's so nice to see now

Part number is 92183920 i paid 57$ +gst from holden and it was here in a week.

FWIW, my experience has been that on current fuels once a plug is fouled you can't bring it back. Solvent, abrasive blast or heat, none work. Not like the old days where solvent worked 99% of the time.

Its been a total pleasure being present for parts of this build.

100% agree with Nominal. Talk to Terry Price up front before you get the welder out. It would also be worth talking to whoever your LVV certifier is going to be as well about what he wants to see and when for the V8 conversion. Cool project!

There is a dedicated X1/9 forum that has been going for a long time, there is a lot of discussion of the problem and no one has mentioned such a possibility. Modding the hubs would be a cert issue, and I would wrap it up along with a whole lot of other mods if I went that way. If that is the case then some bolt on adapters is probably a better bet, 20mm thick gets me into FWD offset territory.

Yeah not much meat to work with, you could always mark out where 4x100 would locate and see if its doable Adding more material would be tricky and potentially obvious Whats the spline count inner and outer bearing diameter With the Ae111 I could swap to Rav4 as the bearing inner diameter was the same and the rear Im using bolt on bearings with the drive flange from a highlander (FWD was Camry from memory) Just wondering if there is another car that might work

It's 20+ years old and now has had positive pressure up it, won't be surprised if it's called it quits.

@mahaway Installing the V8 should be a fairly easy cert if you are sensible and follow the rules. You should be careful with the rust repairs though since the car is dereg. It would be best to talk to a repair certifier before you start so you don't have issues getting it legal later. These are different to the LVVTA modifications certifiers. There is only one up your way at present

Accommodation booked with @Kelvin and leave accepted. ill have a 2xl please and thanks @Bistro

Had a bit of a squeak after the ride where I broke the dash cluster. Had a feeling the front wheel was a bit of center and rubbing on one of the rotors so wanted to visit kim and see if we could work it out. Made a trip out to @Kimjons and fixed that. While i was there we got busy cutting up my 2nd cluster bracket and welding a different set up on it. Pulled the top triple clamp apart to do the job right, make my life easier. Looks a bit like this from front now. Got home and glued a little broken part back onto the cluster and chucked the rear cover on the back. Lubed the chain and hit up @flyingbrick to go for a ride Marnix came along and we ended up going over to Bethlehem via waihi and back over the kai mais and through scottsmans velly. Bike went flawlessly. Only problem I found it been a little stiff in the rear so time to try adjust the rear shock. Off course I had to pull it apart to reach the screw to adjust it. It's here at the tip of my finger And since the bike was going so good I thought I'd take it for a ride by myself. I shot to vtnz and handed in my white plates and got my black original plates re registered back on the bike so that's official and was a pretty easy process over all. Carried on for a ride out to Raglan. And on my way home it started running like a bag of balls. Infact stopped and wasn't able to start it again. So called @flyingbrick to pick me up and before he got to my house I had another mate offer and was already on the way. Got ot home and thought I better go through these carbs, they are obviously the reason for it not wanting to start. Out to @flyingbricks house to take advantage of his ultrasonic cleaner. There was definitely some crap in them that's for sure. Also got the boss on board giving the carbs a blow down after a good hot water wash. And back together Time to clean up some fouled plugs as well. Smashed it back together and had no luck starting it or getting fuel down to the carbs. And that's cause it had no fucken fuel in it. The fuel guage said ¼ of a tank and it was fucken bone dry. No wonder why it didn't want to start and was running like a bag of balls. Chucked some gas in it and fired up straight away. Until the carbs were leaking like a siv. So off they come and stripped down again. Had a feeling it was the o rings on these little guys which had to do with the float. Spoke to a mate and he confirmed my thoughts of the o ring. So later today I'll head out and buy some viton o rings that are suitable and chuck it all back together again. Follow for more stupid mistakes later.

Thats the rear, the front has a spindle rather than a splined hole but the flange detail is identical. Those holes are tapped M12x1.5, I wonder if they were converted to a press in stud if the bigger hole 1mm outboard would clean up all the threads. Looks like a bigger hole further out might get a bit close to the edge of the flange tho...