Romans 2005 Toyota Echo

[Roman]

Yeah the idle is a bit rough as well, basically I've got a 4k with a 3/4 race cam.


 

[deankdx]

3 hours ago, Roman said:

Yeah the idle is a bit rough as well, basically I've got a 4k with a 3/4 race cam.


 

would it do a 15.xx second 1/4 mile or is it slower than a stock one?

[Roman]

No at the moment it's considerably slower than when I had the standard cams with ITB on. 
Something is wrong but I'm quite sure what. 

I've checked plugs and cam timing and injectors. Seems like it's running on all cylinders fine. 
I think I might need to do a compression test. Maybe one or more of the valves is leaking a little.

It actually kind of feels like when I'm doing the VVTI tests, and you set the cam to 40 degrees advance. 
When you do this the motor can barely get to the redline, it feels so sluggy. 
Currently it feels like that everywhere. 
I am wondering if it would perform a lot better with the intake cam 1 tooth back on the chain, like my previous motor had.

It's also got a more grumpy idle, like what happens when you advance the cam too much at idle.

Weird.
I guess it still could possibly be 1 tooth out on the crank end of the chain. As that's hard to check 100% without the cover off. 

Dunno. I've exhausted the easy options and CBF is setting in. 

I might just pull the exhaust out and start planning for the new manifold.
 

[kpr]

can you get in there to measure the valve lift at tdc with dial gauge or even by eye?    should give you a pretty good idea  if cam timing is right. 

[ajg193]

What static/dynamic compression ratio are you running with this combo?

[NickJ]

On 12/07/2022 at 06:44, RUNAMUCK said:

I've often wondered if you could use Kaowool instead of fiberglass in a muffler.

Mate tried earthwool on his racebike, worked for a few days then the binders let go and it all collapsed, imagine Kaowool would be much the same.

[xsspeed]

was just rereading a the first 20 or so pages, are you going to do the earlier prius motor, the 13:1 one?

[Roman]

Im just tossing this up.

Because the bellhousing situation with the newer motor isnt really as bad as I first moaned about.

What I thought was a missing top bolt that is supposed to go through to my engine simply doesnt exist on the normal block either. So there are only two bolts that arent great. One, instead of just drilling this time. I could drill smaller and use a tap, and it would be super legit. The other side is less great though, but could be figured out.

The dowels hold it all correctly, and Ithink ive given it enough of a beating to prove it works well enough.

I guess im concerned that the only earlier motors I can find look a bit grotty and have been sitting on trademe for a looooong time. Where as the newer motors, I know exactly what im in for.

With a newer motor theres less chance of spending the contributed money on a motor that might be a dud. 

Also I can go back to dodsons and see if they will sell me another one for a little cheaper without warranty again.

No such luck with the older motors from a different wrecker, that are more expensive to start with. And might be fucked.

Hmmm.

[Roman]

15 hours ago, ajg193 said:

What static/dynamic compression ratio are you running with this combo?

10.5:1 static comp, dynamic varies with vvti. 

 

[xsspeed]

i think i missed it but what did you do in the end for clearing the valves and pistons on the 13.4's

[GARDRB]

1 hour ago, Roman said:

10.5:1 static comp, dynamic varies with vvti. 

 

That seems super low? Is that a typo?

[xsspeed]

thats normal for a standard 2nz? its not a atkinson cycle spec hybrid unit

[GARDRB]

27 minutes ago, xsspeed said:

thats normal for a standard 2nz? its not a atkinson cycle spec hybrid unit

Oh true, David and I had been discussing putting the Prius pistons in the 2nz so my brain was still there.

[shrike]

According to Wikipedia the 1NZ-FXE and 1NZ-FXP also have forged Rods

Along with the 13:1 compression but guessing they are the older motors your speaking of 

[kpr]

"forged"   likely the same process as toyota has been using since forever,  they just started making them lighter in the late 90's.   not like the 80's-90's stuff that you can run a zillion hp on factory bottom end

[Roman]

10 hours ago, xsspeed said:

i think i missed it but what did you do in the end for clearing the valves and pistons on the 13.4's

I set the intake cam 1 tooth back on the chain, and then used a small stopper inside the pulley to limit the last few degrees of travel.
So the stopper limits the total travel to around 37 degrees instead of 40ish, and moving the cam back 1 tooth means it gets to +17 deg instead of +37. 
So this gets as close as it could to the top of the piston without modification.
My new home position for the cam is effectively -20 deg 

However it worked out well, because at high rpm I'm actually retarding the cam further than it would normally be able to go. 
Effectively at -7 degrees by 9000rpm.

And yes it says "forged rods" on wikipedia but I dont think 1NZFXE has anything special compared to normal 1NZ. 
Just "wikifacts" they are still pencil sized haha.

[GARDRB]

14 hours ago, Roman said:

Just "wikifacts" they are still pencil sized haha.

Yep, a pencil sized forging is still a pencil sized forging

[Roman]

Sooooo.... 

56 pages and 651 days later, 

I'm finally putting an exhaust on it 

@kpr's awesome awesome awesome manifold fits up great.

Thankfully it could fit in from under the car, without having to undo engine mounts or anything. 
It sits a little too low with the 1300cc motor in there, as the block is shorter. 
But it will be perfecto once I get a new prius engine. Which I'll get next week. 

Enjoy some tractor noises! 






 

 

[xsspeed]

i missed contributing to engine, can i send some dimes for your dimes @kpr A+ for doing this man, feels like such a pet/vicarious project with how Romandayf shares everything lol

[xsspeed]

well not everything i havent subscribed to his only fans