Bling Posted July 11, 2017 Posted July 11, 2017 I've used old PC cases for metal when in a pinch, works perfectly fine so long a you prep the weld area. Not so easy on the car bits mind you. 6 power settings should be fine if the wire speed is full variable. I have a magnate 180p and its all variable. But even just one setting being variable will give you a lot of adjustment. Quote
Spencer Posted July 11, 2017 Posted July 11, 2017 The steel you use makes a huge difference IMO, PC casing is real stiff and would be gay to shape (much like the zinc stuff). Not what you should be putting in your car. If you use some real stiff shit you will have slightly different hardness (not sure on technical terms I am a hack) metals on each side of your welds making it hard to work into shape after? When you use cold rolled and you tack right through the job you can grind and then sand the weld down flat then work out the shrinkage with a hammer. Zinc doesn't play as nicely and makes this process way harder, I would put computer cases in that basket also? People whinge about mig welds not being workable but I think its the materials and methods used that make it so. Out of all the consumables you use to fix a car a sheet of the steel that makes the job easy to do seems pretty reasonable? especially at $100-150 a sheet. Get your tin snips out and try it on zinc vs cold rolled, its night and day. 3 Quote
Bling Posted July 12, 2017 Posted July 12, 2017 I know what you're saying @Spencer, but i've never really undertaken any jobs that would warrant even 1/6th of a sheet. If I had the space and needs i'd have better suited materials. Most materials I use are recycled from something. I just spend more time grinding than welding lol. Quote
M.H. Posted July 12, 2017 Posted July 12, 2017 Just go to your local sheet metal engineer with a box of piss and get some of his off cuts 2 Quote
Mr Vapour Posted July 12, 2017 Posted July 12, 2017 @Spencer what would be a recommended thickness? I think the sheet is the last thing on my list of supplies before i start grinding and investigating. Quote
tortron Posted July 12, 2017 Posted July 12, 2017 Same as what's in there already so you won't blow through one side trying to get it to join 1 Quote
nickrock Posted July 12, 2017 Posted July 12, 2017 On 11/07/2017 at 12:56, Spencer said: The steel you use makes a huge difference IMO, PC casing is real stiff and would be gay to shape (much like the zinc stuff). Not what you should be putting in your car. If you use some real stiff shit you will have slightly different hardness (not sure on technical terms I am a hack) metals on each side of your welds making it hard to work into shape after? When you use cold rolled and you tack right through the job you can grind and then sand the weld down flat then work out the shrinkage with a hammer. Zinc doesn't play as nicely and makes this process way harder, I would put computer cases in that basket also? People whinge about mig welds not being workable but I think its the materials and methods used that make it so. Out of all the consumables you use to fix a car a sheet of the steel that makes the job easy to do seems pretty reasonable? especially at $100-150 a sheet. Get your tin snips out and try it on zinc vs cold rolled, its night and day. In my experience what your welding makes all the difference ,while ago I was putting rear wheel arch patch panels on a early kombi awesome to weld small tacks then cooled stuff all distortion and its a big flats panel Next day was on a bent Mitzi although it welded up ok no way could I work it like the low tensile steel bash it and bog it 3 Quote
Adoom Posted July 16, 2017 Author Posted July 16, 2017 Turned the power down to 1. The welds still look a bit wobbly because I had trouble seeing. I realised afterwards it was because the lens behind the clear plastic was filthy rather than my cheap Chint auto darkening helmet being shit. Got a new clear plastic thing and wiped the lens. Now it's much easier to see. Haven't done any more welding since cleaning it. Was thinking about getting a better helmet and speedglas 9100xx looks great. But I don't think I can justify spending $750 on one from 'murika/Amazon.... Can anyone get deals on these? Still need to flap sand the weld down with the flappy sanding wheel on the grinder. 1 Quote
Bling Posted July 17, 2017 Posted July 17, 2017 Do you just weld with MIG? I have a basic Cigweld helmet that was $200 or less, never had any issues with MIG. Tried it with TIG and it didn't work so well (wouldn't darken in time). Welds look a bit cold, are you getting penetration on the other side? They seem to be sitting on the top rather than becoming one with the parent metal. Quote
Adoom Posted July 17, 2017 Author Posted July 17, 2017 Just now, Bling said: Do you just weld with MIG? I have a basic Cigweld helmet that was $200 or less, never had any issues with MIG. Tried it with TIG and it didn't work so well (wouldn't darken in time). I mainly use MIG. I do very occasionally use an oxy welder, to braze...badly and to make stuff hot to bend it. I don't have a TIG, but I could get one in the distant future. The only problems I've had with my Chint helmet are the sensors being blocked by stuff(they are at the top). And not being able to see if the weld area is not brightly lit. The lens cover also seems to get dirty/scarred by smoke/sparks/splatter easily. The viewing area could be bigger. 1 Quote
flyingbrick Posted July 17, 2017 Posted July 17, 2017 Hi man. I think if you spent $750 on a helmet you'd be disappointed by how little you actually benefit. Value wise you'd be better off buying a virgin sheet of 1.2mm material, some decent portable lighting and just practicing. This is the helmet that I recommend to everyone https://m.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Auto-Darkening-Variable-Shade-Hydrographic-Welding-Helmet/1000003026 Mine is the older version- the new one has a larger window but still 4 sensors and amazing value for money... You could spend far more on a helmet here in NZ and get less... Edit. Also.. my helmet (and I'm guessing this one) don't need visible light to darken as they sense electromagnetic stuff (or something) and magically darken. Mine will only flash ya if the batteries are flat (probably 3 sets in 4 years) But Practice is really the only thing that will give decent results. I use electrogalv 1.2mm sheet and unlike everyone else here- I really like it. I started using it because I knew an experienced bodywork guy who was buying a few sheets at the same time and that's what he suggested.. he TIG welds it with zero issues. I know ur flooded with conflicting advice which is usually worse than nothing so GOOD LUCK Quote
Spencer Posted July 17, 2017 Posted July 17, 2017 Wat, why would you use thicker gauge than is already there? I am yet to meet a panel that is thicker than 0.9 (20 gauge?) only in door re-reinforcements and hinges etc. Its so much harder to form 1.2, like almost a whole order of magnitude harder to hammer haha. 2 Quote
Kimjon Posted July 17, 2017 Posted July 17, 2017 Crank up your voltage control to get more heat looks like not enough heat. Best to set this on some scrap. Then stich weld in small pulse type passes, around the perimeter until done. For the cheap helmet, I run electrical tape around that lens you removed to clean. This really helps keep the sooty stuff out. If you ever need to clean, just do it and replace the tape later. Quote
Adoom Posted July 17, 2017 Author Posted July 17, 2017 1 hour ago, Spencer said: Wat, why would you use thicker gauge than is already there? I am yet to meet a panel that is thicker than 0.9 (20 gauge?) only in door re-reinforcements and hinges etc. Its so much harder to form 1.2, like almost a whole order of magnitude harder to hammer haha. Went to steel and tube petone at lunch and asked about 0.8 cold rolled sheet. They don't stock that size, they do have 0.6 and 1.0. They can order it, $100+gst a sheet. But they cannot cut it up for me, so I'll need a trailer. I have to find somewhere that has offcuts I guess. Quote
Adoom Posted July 17, 2017 Author Posted July 17, 2017 2 minutes ago, kicker said: I go to Kia Ora sheetmetal on Adelaide Rd I should mention that I work in lower hutt and live in carterton. Metal shopping needs to be performed within my lunch hour. So I'm pretty much restricted to the Hutt valley. Quote
nickrock Posted July 17, 2017 Posted July 17, 2017 There used to be a place down by port Rd might have been called metal traders or something like that I brought a few sheets off then few years back and they were cheaper than steel and tube and they chopped some rhs for me too Quote
flyingbrick Posted July 17, 2017 Posted July 17, 2017 2 hours ago, Spencer said: Wat, why would you use thicker gauge than is already there? I am yet to meet a panel that is thicker than 0.9 (20 gauge?) only in door re-reinforcements and hinges etc. Its so much harder to form 1.2, like almost a whole order of magnitude harder to hammer haha. haha. Yeah but 1.2 is so much nicer to weld for the same reasons. and it feels so much more sturdy in floors etc. Quote
Adoom Posted July 17, 2017 Author Posted July 17, 2017 4 minutes ago, nickrock said: There used to be a place down by port Rd might have been called metal traders or something like that I brought a few sheets off then few years back and they were cheaper than steel and tube and they chopped some rhs for me too Steel Traders? If I google them, I find these guys https://www.hja.co.nz/contact/ Is that it? Quote
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