nickrock

I would research some type of glue or filler the aly will warp to hell Try some plastic steel you get it at repco i know a panel beater that used it to fill a hole in car roof where arial was he was very happy with the result

Is some one doesnt grab it i could well be interested

There is a place out the hutt valley

Thoes auger type log splitters suck they get stuck in a knotty bit of wood and can be a mission to get out the spear ones work well you just retract the ram and the wood falls off

If i remember correctly super cheap used to sell the kit with the wire and the handles that grip the wire It was some years back

If you just clean it up and por it the rust will be back soon only real way is to remove it and weld in new steel when you clean it up there will be several more holes Used to do that stuff on weekly basis

I have set of footprint brand brought them in mid 70s and still cut nicely thin slivers of panel steel no folding on the edge

Only if they are old school ones

Mate of minethats a old school panel beater has a gun like thing that has a carbon rod and uses that to heat small spots to shrink them but tends tomake the spot quite hard ( iguess it tends to add carbon to the steel) worked well on mynose cone that was a bit streched in the front

Pm me if you want it that way I will see it

When your ready to change the front springs I have a porta power ram with a hollow ram you shove a screwed rod through the ram and the top shock mount to a plate ( lost the plate ) and compress the spring If you want to borrow it

Cut the bits out section by section small tacks then cool with the air gun that will dramatically reduce the warping and small sections make it easier to fabricate at home the 3 tools I use the most are all air powered 3inch cut of blade its that thin that if I have to cut past where the patch will be its easy to weld up the cut , 20mm belt sander with 60 grit belt for cleaning up rusty steel removing paint around the weld and grinding up the weld it doesn't chew up good steel as much as a disc grinder and more like a scalpel than a machete and a small rotary burr to get in to the small radius that the belt sander won't get in to Patch more than just the obvious rusty bit as it will have crept along the seam When you clean up the rest of the screen area if you see small rust spots its more than likely just starting to come through from the inside get the burr and remove it if you go through so be it just patch it or a years time it will break out and piss you off I have done dozens of them mostly jap cars

Depends on what paint you buy 2k has a harder and you don't use a clear coat it is your cheapest option , base coat clear coat is more expensive and requires more expertise in getting a good finish you will need the correct thinners , total body shop in lower hutt will sell you all the stuff mixed to match your car I have a super cheap gun I use for primer its ok

having to recert isn't the end of the world. I think people are more scared of it than they should be. but maybe selling your 304 and buying a chev would not be all that different cost wise and less work to do. if you want to tweak things more later I would definitely be considering chev, more stuff available etc. but maybe you prefer the sound of the holden motor, or just would like to have a holden with a holden motor? basically you just have to decide what you want, neither is right or wrong. It w's more a case of I got the bits , I really don't need another project just a bolt in and go plus no where to park it but outside and its super tidy

That a bigger cause I got a 304 and trans sitting under the bench It comes with a fully rebuilt auto that works like a AMT would a injected Chevy be ok with out a re cert

At this stage its a hypothetical question as deal isn't done but a mate wants to sell me his registered and warranted Holden less the 500 hp chev in it , if I brought it and threw in a bogs standard 304 Holden (originally a 6) will I need to get it re certified What he's asking for it is less than a panel shop would charge for the mint paint job on it , he's in process of acquiring a restored Camaro that is now less the motor

Single

Ok pm me early next month when I'm back in the country Its either done 147k or 174k its a 1990 nks 250 got a hydraulic tail lift 3m deck got two sets of tyres road and mud grip Gear linkage needs a grease was hard to change from 3rd to 4th but got lots better after I had finished towing out a 6x6 truck (I hardly ever use it except to get fire wood off a mates steep farm block) Its 99% ready to take it for re vin ,just got to find out why wiper motor sounds like a concrete mixer and and spray a couple of panels where I cut out some rust ( around the back near the cab locks where they all go) Offers I originally for spares for my other trucks but just went so well so kept it

Way too expensive

? you want it ?

I have a 4x4 Isuzu truck about the same size as the photo was used for towing a 300mm chipper in the bush ,I'm looking for a new deck for it preferably a tipping one

I have a 4be2 in shed ( spare for my trucks) if you want dimensions etc ,my understanding is that the 3.3 3.6 3.9 4.2 are all pretty much interchangeable

You don't need to tell me about the cost of going to the tip I go there every day With the duals you probably have about 2 m between the wheels good for most cars , if any one is wrecking a light truck or van with small duals I might be interested ,got some of a Nissan atlas van but the rims are totally rusted

I also have one that has no real reason for me having it Its got 16 inch wheels I towed a 3t ford truck with it no probe once I figured that I only tie down around the wheels so it wouldn't push my truck through the corners Thinking of hacking off the hub and stubs and using the floating hubs of the light trucks with the small dual wheels ( heavier load capacity with more stability and flats tire don't put you instantly on the side of the road

Is there a website with all these diff specs I was at pick a part today looking at a vn ? diff for possible modification to go n to my wb