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Hurmeez' 1977 Mk2 Escort Estate


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1 hour ago, d.p.n.s said:

hay man regarding the ITBs ..cant make them fit this way?

1979-Toyota-Corona-Mark-II-with-a-ITB-1GZ-FE-V12-05-620x349.jpg.3f2efab80f7bdc85a5f92891988204c7.jpg

I think I checked it that way but I just don't think I have the bonnet clearance. I suppose I could have a go with some flattened runners but to be honest I was a bit gutted and pushed it into the corner and felt sorry for myself for a bit. I must get back out there and have another look. 

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12 hours ago, d.p.n.s said:

3.2.jpg.d01fa08648dd623b81eb798b7c8572bd.jpg

Could you do them like this but angled backwards? 

Although I think you have the same issue on clearance at the front end of the engine that I had with the Viva install. My bonnet was just a bit too close to get away with itbs sitting over top of the cam covers.

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Bonnet holes and humps aren't really part of the look I'm going for, unfortunately. As much as the idea of winding 30psi into a stock block with no issues sounds appealing, the iron block is less so for me. Also, them revs!

That said, check this out! jeQSwcv.jpg Toyx7MG.jpg 7WPlMeL.jpg

It's going to be close but I think I can actually get away with it. I'll use the Mazda injectors and bung the throttle body injector port. I may have to flatten the very top of the front driver's side runner to stop it knocking when the mounts flex but other than that it should work. 

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You know you're the second person to suggest the NOS idea. I think I'll go for a non-permanent bung in the BMW injector port for that very reason. As for the IACV, the one @Avenga used on his wagon looks like a really neat solution (if a little pricey). I think I'll have a look for a cheaper wrecker jobbie first but if all else fails then that's a good option. 

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1 minute ago, Hurmeez said:

You know you're the second person to suggest the NOS idea. I think I'll go for a non-permanent bung in the BMW injector port for that very reason. As for the IACV, the one @Avenga used on his wagon looks like a really neat solution (if a little pricey). I think I'll have a look for a cheaper wrecker jobbie first but if all else fails then that's a good option. 

I just bought a 2nd hand factory bmw 1 ( that was used on the same engine I got the ITBs from.).  Landed was 28 bucks.  Will just have to cut and shut the pipe work.

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Maybe easier to cut/ weld the left ( passenger) side rocker cover to gain more clearance  as it's way higher than the other cover and does not need to be higher than the spark plug valley  - I looked at doing similar 

with you on the not cutting bonnet or adding scoop that's the easy option not the what the hell is under there surprise option 

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I did consider lobsterbacking but I don't think I have the ally welding skills to attempt that sort of thing just yet. Also, it would end up being so much welding just for one, once you multiply it by all six runners I think I'd end up suicidal by the end of it. Not to mention the cost of the gas. I looked into ally donuts and I can get really tight radius bends for close to the same price I'd probably end up spending on gas just to do all the lobsterbacking, so I think that's the go on that route.

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Cool- you have clearance!!! I reckon silver top itbs would be a good match too. No injectors hole to plug and neat flanges to use.

Given your impressive steel tig skills so far I reckon you'd be fine at having a go on Alloy. I jumped in at the deep end and my first proper go at alloy tig was my manifold. I just did a little practice first.

I'd avoid trying to muck with the cam covers- I welded up a few holes on mine and they are pretty dirty casts- not so nice to weld really. Especially considering they are used. Mine were cleaned out but still had crap almost soaked into the alloy it seemed. In saying all this I still want to modify some covers for the next build- it has always bugged me that they dont match.

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I agree, the silver top bodies would be a good fit. Unfortunately, I already went and bought some bimmer ones so I'll go ahead and make them work for now. It's funny you mention the cam covers. I think I can get away without modifying the passenger's side cover, however, I was originally thinking of relocating that breather vent on the driver's side because it looked like it would be in the way of the front-most body. Then I realised I'd be better to take the mountain to Muhummad so to speak and just shift all the driver's side bodies a little bit rearward to clear it. I already drew up the mounting flanges ready to be laser cut and I think it'll all turn out pretty good. 

If you do manage to figure out a way to make the driver's side cover look more like the passenger's with the badge and whatnot, I'd be pretty keen to buy one off you. It bugs me too not having them match.

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Yeah I have had a good look into them. Problem is the bolts holes and plug holes dont match at all. i originally thought I could cut one down to the flange, mill it flat. then repeat on the top from the other side. stick the two halves together and weld them. But plug holes would need moving too. Its a fair amount of work.  Certainly nothing I'll be doing for a long time with all the other projects to do.....

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very cool :-D

The trick with dirty aluminium is to clean it as well as possible then do your welds twice (seriously!)

Do the weld as best you can- it will be spotted with impurities and shit bubbling out of the material.

Grind all of that dirty material off and then do the weld again over the top. Worked for me with a used LS sump :-D

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Re tig welding dirty castings. Have a play with the balance setting. One way is max cleaning, the other way is max penetration.  Lean towards the cleaning side and you'll find oil soaked castings and painted surfaces easy as to weld.

A good preheat will draw a lot of crap out first too.

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