Sunbeam Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 On 2/14/2017 at 10:47, Adoom said: Is there such a thing as a dash that is not cracked? Mine is more like cracks with a bit of dash on it. Mine had no cracks. They do exist. I know the 1UZFE is a good engine but it's so, um, Toyota. Have you ever heard a Trumpy with PI or triple Webers with a 6-3-1 manifold at full song? It will make your pants wet. I miss my Triumph and part of the reason I loved it is the shit engineering. I loved spending my time trying to make an overweight badly breathing cast iron relic do more than it was designed to. However, if you must, I endorse the comments about using an R200 and upgraded driveshafts and sticking with a stock(ish) rear end. The Triumph setup works as well as any trailing arm design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locost_bryan Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 R200 tallest ratio is 3.357, according to Mr Google :- http://forums.nicoclub.com/the-ultimate-final-drive-gear-ratio-thread-t228683.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Threeonthetree Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 46 minutes ago, Adoom said: Do you have any photos? I feel some dejavu... I might have asked in a previous thread. Which sump did you use? My engine is a front sump, but I managed to source a Soarer 'rear' sump out of 'Murica. Initial measurements make it too close to be sure(current engine is in the way of measuring). So it will either just fit behind the cross member, or the crossmember/sump pan might require some modifications. Yeh, I've heard the Nissan diff is a common upgrade. But I don't know if I will find a suitable ratio without having to find some rare as obscure model. Have you done any final drive calculations with wheel/tyre size and your ideal engine rpm at particular speeds? Because your range of suitable ratios is quite broad due to the difficulty of finding a suitable diff which offers a low 3 ratio. You might find that around 3.5 is actually suitable. Or you could find any other IRS diff head and axles (BMW, Holden, Toyota etc) that is relatively easy to obtain and look at fitting it, if it comes in the ratio you desire. I wouldn't bother fitting another IRS rear subframe or rear end into your car because the one you have will be more than adequate for a 1UZ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
~Slideways~ Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 I have a spare R200 and S13 subframe you can measure. Also, come pick up that driveshaft! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted May 1, 2017 Author Share Posted May 1, 2017 31 minutes ago, Threeonthetree said: Have you done any final drive calculations with wheel/tyre size and your ideal engine rpm at particular speeds? Because your range of suitable ratios is quite broad due to the difficulty of finding a suitable diff which offers a low 3 ratio. You might find that around 3.5 is actually suitable. Or you could find any other IRS diff head and axles (BMW, Holden, Toyota etc) that is relatively easy to obtain and look at fitting it, if it comes in the ratio you desire. I wouldn't bother fitting another IRS rear subframe or rear end into your car because the one you have will be more than adequate for a 1UZ. Just done some quick spreadsheeting. Ideal ratio are between 3.3 and 3.5. This gives me 100kph at 2600 - 2750rpm in 5th. Internet seems to think the 1UZ likes this rev range at 100kph. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muncie Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 My lexus to triumph sump was a 10mm thick flange with the pick up points for the trans at the back end, then welded the pan off an old small block chev i had floating around and modded pickup to suit. If you have a front sump supposedly possible to carefully cut the gearbox mounts off the ass end rotate the thing 180 degrees then weld back on for a rear sump. Not forgetting pickup mods too. Pretty sure steering rack will be in your way if front sump is tried i could be wrong though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
locost_bryan Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 13 minutes ago, Adoom said: Just done some quick spreadsheeting. Ideal ratio are between 3.3 and 3.5. This gives me 100kph at 2600 - 2750rpm in 5th. Internet seems to think the 1UZ likes this rev range at 100kph. Triumph 2500 was 3.54 iirc. Nissan Z33 350ZX (2002-2009) manual had R200V with 3.538, auto had 3.357, should be reasonably easy to find. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2009-Nissan-350Z-3-357-Ratio-Locking-Rear-Carrier-66k-ZK1436-/231683872215?hash=item35f16f55d7:g:WVoAAOSw4SlV8esS&vxp=mtr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muncie Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 There is a user on here called sparrow hes dropped a lexus v8 in a stag same engine bay as a mk2 basically . Hes using my old independent ford 9" diff in it and my wheels from my mk1. See if his links still work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Threeonthetree Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 9 minutes ago, locost_bryan said: Triumph 2500 was 3.54 iirc. Nissan Z33 350ZX (2002-2009) manual had R200V with 3.538, auto had 3.357, should be reasonably easy to find. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2009-Nissan-350Z-3-357-Ratio-Locking-Rear-Carrier-66k-ZK1436-/231683872215?hash=item35f16f55d7:g:WVoAAOSw4SlV8esS&vxp=mtr Triumph is 3.45:1 but yeah a 3.357 auto Z33 rear end would be ideal. Have seen a few of them being parted out too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoozin Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 R200 is a pretty straightforward swap I can likely get photos of one done if you like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoozin Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 Also the IRS is not good it's flappy chicken wing semi trailing arm insta-toe camber gang garbage. But it's sweet for fitting wide wheels. Doing away with the shitty rear hub arangement would be dreamy to boot. But fitting another subframe is gonna be a massive dick of a job. Time is free I guess. I have an acceptable center console you can have. It isn't cracked near the choke but does have a mangled hole for oem demister switch and the holed for the gear boot clips have done their usual shit themselves thing. Look forward to seeing a UZ in the hole. It's my ideal swap too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted May 1, 2017 Share Posted May 1, 2017 As Richard said, just put a Fuji Heavy Industries R200 in it. Fairly common swap, even an R180 would potentially be OK but eeeeeeh, R200 or R230. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted May 1, 2017 Author Share Posted May 1, 2017 4 hours ago, Snoozin said: Also the IRS is not good it's flappy chicken wing semi trailing arm insta-toe camber gang garbage. But it's sweet for fitting wide wheels. Doing away with the shitty rear hub arangement would be dreamy to boot. But fitting another subframe is gonna be a massive dick of a job. Time is free I guess. I have an acceptable center console you can have. It isn't cracked near the choke but does have a mangled hole for oem demister switch and the holed for the gear boot clips have done their usual shit themselves thing. Look forward to seeing a UZ in the hole. It's my ideal swap too. I have a good center console on the way, thanks anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoozin Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1457955918/ Pics in here of the local 2.5 with the R200 in it, he's my bosses brother. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muncie Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 While your attacking the firewall should recess it 100mm so a Barra will fit..... Probably better to fit heater unit out of something 90's spec and Japanese the triumph units fill with leaves and rust out, or the internal gates seize and give you full time hot feet or wind in your face. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 53 minutes ago, Muncie said: While your attacking the firewall should recess it 100mm so a Barra will fit..... Probably better to fit heater unit out of something 90's spec and Japanese the triumph units fill with leaves and rust out, or the internal gates seize and give you full time hot feet or wind in your face. I have considered both of these things. If I recess the firewall, I'll have to change the heater because it won't fit anymore. But retrofitting a modern heater to the existing inlet hole and vents seems like it could be a lot of work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 bang a square morris/austin heater in m8 itl fit anywhere 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muncie Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 could go real simple for the heater couple of pc fans drawing air from some 2 inch exhaust tubing tucked under exhaust manifold then flexi tube it ahead of radiator so you dont get fumes. would demist mint. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted May 17, 2017 Share Posted May 17, 2017 Wants to put a UZ in a Trump but thinks retrofitting a heater unit could be difficult. Mayte, should be a dawdle by comparison. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted May 17, 2017 Author Share Posted May 17, 2017 28 minutes ago, kyteler said: Wants to put a UZ in a Trump but thinks retrofitting a heater unit could be difficult. Mayte, should be a dawdle by comparison. Nar. Engine transplant is easier. Just needs brackets, all the connector bits like hoses/wires are flexible so stuff doesn't really need to line up. Heater is big fucking plastic thing full of flappy doors to make hacking it up not really feasible and vents in the wrong place but you can't move them because flappy doors won't work right and mechanical levers for flappy doors that you need to actuate somehow. I think my options are: Fix existing heater maybe try upgrade motor to insane brushless mode. Get better condition std heater maybe try upgrade motor to insane brushless mode. Replace with something really basic that only does the windscreen. But then I am left with useless vents in the middle and on either side of the dash. Remember I don't want this to be another racecar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.