Hydraulic gurus needed

[mtbtimr]

My dream is to have the hydrolastic suspension in the 1300 run through a pump/reservoir system. 

 

So i can run it high for day-to-day use, then park up and pump all the fluid into the reservoir to slam it. 

 

Is there such a pump - 12V 300PSI? 

 

What sort of safety valves and shut offs will I need? 

 

Haven't had much experience with hydraulics.

 

Cheers

[flyingbrick]

I bet you could use an sw20 powersteer pump. Lots of new cars have electric pumps actually.

You could do quite a nice setup if you thought about it for a few min. solenoids to start pump and divert pump flow front/rear and other solenoid valves for releasing the fluid back to the tank.

I think it would be a bit of a fuckround to get safety switches installed- you'd probably have to be very careful not to pump things up too far

[thegreatestben]

Just buy a Citroen

[fletch]

what sort of pressure do you need? 

 

I would lean toward an electric power steer pump also. They can pump into the 1000's of psi, and move a decent volume.

The MR2 one is ok, or the opel/astra one is better 

 

you wouldn't have to pump the fluid back into the reservoir when parked, just open the solenoid back to the tank and let the weight of the car push the oil back into the tank.

[mtbtimr]

what sort of pressure do you need? 

 

I would lean toward an electric power steer pump also. They can pump into the 1000's of psi, and move a decent volume.

The MR2 one is ok, or the opel/astra one is better 

 

you wouldn't have to pump the fluid back into the reservoir when parked, just open the solenoid back to the tank and let the weight of the car push the oil back into the tank.

 

 

Only up to 300psi. Sounds primo.

[Mof]

Some 2nd gen (90's) pajero's had a hydraulic suspension lift system.

Getting your hands on the pump/reservoir unit might be a goer?

They're in a unit under the floor.

[fletch]

300psi is good. You can run 1/2 inch push lock hose to all the corners.

You will need a solenoid at each corner to shut in the pressure once pumped up so the car does not tip over on a corner.

Also a return solenoid at the pump.

You could get all fancy with a pressure controller and what not, but a gauge will be much easier and cheaper.

Wire a 300psi pressure switch into the pump so it cuts out once up to pressure and shut all the valves.

[brocky41]

Just buy a Citroen and use all the parts from it lol

[Hemi]

Id steer away from pushloc connectors, compression/olive fittings are waaay better, they also have the advantage of not siezing solid after a year of driving around.

[fletch]

Id steer away from pushloc connectors, compression/olive fittings are waaay better, they also have the advantage of not siezing solid after a year of driving around.

Yes not the push in style ones. I mean that blue parker push on hose that you don't need hose clips for. It's rated for a decent pressure.

[Hemi]

Oh, right. I'll stfu hah. Carry on

[mo999]

300psi is good. You can run 1/2 inch push lock hose to all the corners.

You will need a solenoid at each corner to shut in the pressure once pumped up so the car does not tip over on a corner.

Also a return solenoid at the pump.

You could get all fancy with a pressure controller and what not, but a gauge will be much easier and cheaper.

Wire a 300psi pressure switch into the pump so it cuts out once up to pressure and shut all the valves.

 

You wouldn't need to run to all four corners, these have two separate systems already - one for each side - so you need to only select which side you want to alter and have a pressure gauge per side to set height - as per the factory settings, I think it 310 psi for complete Nana Spec ride height and something like 250 for some low - pretty much what GuyWithAviators runs most of the time.

 

It would by pretty easy to connect to the existing valves under the bonnet. Remember these were built to withstand driving without any pressure in at all in case of a leak but are not comfortable at all and you may have trouble getting over anything - I think they drop to about 40mm!

 

It's certainly a great project and GWA is interested in doing the same thing.

[mtbtimr]

Yea have been saying ill do it for ages but now that I've actually put some thought into it, it doesn't sound to hard. Reckon I could just use the schrader valves that are used with the hand pump? 

[Muncie]

You would want to run new hard lines at the very least so you have it controlling front and rear instead of left and right. I know hydrolastic was all the rage in the 60s but you could make it really work for you with some new tech better valving and a bit of cunning.

[mo999]

You would want to run new hard lines at the very least so you have it controlling front and rear instead of left and right. I know hydrolastic was all the rage in the 60s but you could make it really work for you with some new tech better valving and a bit of cunning.

Yes BUT, the whole point of left and right is the control of body roll, front / rear would not do this - check out this stock standard one here https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1771726553050081&set=gm.1021757784571952&type=3&theater and compare to the Torana in the background.

[Steelies]

go with a pair of hand pumps on the passenger side floor. side, side, side to side

[flyingbrick]

Be better with them no linked at all. Id do this BUT there's probably easier ways.

Pump to solenoid valve to 6 port manifold

4 ports to 4 solenoid valves and one to each corner

The last port to a solenoid valve and back to the tank.

That would let you raise, lower or equalise corners however you please.

[Muncie]

Sway bars would negate the front to rear link. You always see these dragging their bums like a dog with worms once the back seat is full of well fed passengers switching to a front rear seatup you could just bump the back up, or drop the front to match.

[flyingbrick]

Or just have a system that isn't linked?

[Muncie]

Or what he said ^

A hand pump for each seat could be lols 4 people controlling a wheel each shit could get real mexican.