kempy Posted July 23, 2015 Author Share Posted July 23, 2015 Just realised Corbie that the picture doesn't show that it is brushed stainless, so have edited the post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corbie Posted July 23, 2015 Share Posted July 23, 2015 oh right. sounds like scotch pads might be an option. but maybe slow. did a bit of reading and belt sanders using 60+ grit seems common.. or you could use a paint stripping wheel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cubastreet Posted July 24, 2015 Share Posted July 24, 2015 I've had good results using p400 on a sanding block, with plenty of water and a drop of detergent. Take full length strokes rather than a back & forth motion. Clamp a bit of wood on as a fence if you can't get it straight enough. Practice on a bit of scrap/the back of the panel first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted July 25, 2015 Share Posted July 25, 2015 might i suggest a scotchbrite or steel wool in a drill. will be muuuuuuch faster, you can even make scale patterns if you want Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kempy Posted August 7, 2015 Author Share Posted August 7, 2015 Time for an update, Have cleaned up the Stainless front using a scotch brite and a foam backing, came up reasonably well. The pump had a few issues and was vibrating so much that it snapped off the rubber mounts and was wearing the hoses, upon inspection I found that the rubber anti-vibration coupling had gone brittle and fallen apart. Old pump vs New pump Here's the rubber mounts, The new ones I got are too tall and the pump touches the boiler so I need to find some small ones like the originals somewhere, not having much luck so far. They're supposed to be 3mm shaft and around 11mm high if anyone knows of a local source. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corbie Posted August 7, 2015 Share Posted August 7, 2015 http://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/products/4150698/ M4 x 10mm.. if thats any use? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kempy Posted August 7, 2015 Author Share Posted August 7, 2015 Awesome, thanks for the link Corbie! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post kempy Posted August 8, 2015 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 8, 2015 Having a bit of fun with the bead blaster and polishing machine. Gauges polished, tested and back in place. 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kempy Posted August 16, 2015 Author Share Posted August 16, 2015 Group Head thermal syphon control valves. Having a group head thermal syphon adjustment is one of the more unique features of the Faema Legend, it lets the user make adjustments to the flow of hot water that heats the group head and fine tune the temperature. Here's a quick bit run down on their maintenance which is overlooked in a lot of cases, the condition of these ones is pretty much what you'd expect from several years of little to no maintenance exhibiting plenty of mineral deposits (with some added glass beads from the external clean) which will affect the flow and reduce the temperature. There was an external tell tale sign of the flow problem with someone trying to open the valves too far, this in turn bulged the thin stainless steel covers outwards from their seats and had to be beaten flat again before being reinstalled. One of the valves bead blasted and a quick polish in an attempt to reduce future deposit build up. Here's what is essentially the service kit, 2 O-Rings per valve and some high temp silicone grease All done and ready to install. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
artyone Posted August 16, 2015 Share Posted August 16, 2015 Man I shouldn't even think about this but it's almost like I could find a use for brothers old boiler I took out of the dry cleaning steam stuff which he got with his leather refinishing business when he took it over but the stuff was so old and under maintained it soon enough stopped working. Leading into it, I suppose, is I used to find those el cheapo coffee machines from briscoes and whatever in the inorganics and would simply strip off all the plastic and then set them in wood and metal mounts then fire them up and have a really crap coffee machine which seemed insistent in burning the coffee but if I timed it right and put only so much water in it then wait a specified time after it actually started boiling... I could get a nice coffee out of it. But I better forget about it as like anyone here there's always about a hundred other projects which might actually even have a few of them finished if tangents didn't keep bloody appearing. With that said then you're welcome kempy to the boilder and various odds and ends which are still there if you are keen on a Mad Professor coffee machine? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kempy Posted August 16, 2015 Author Share Posted August 16, 2015 artyone I'm definitely interested as this rebuild is coming to an end, I've always wanted to do a one off build. Speaking to getting closer to finishing today's effort lead to a pre-fit of everything before I get the sealants out and fix stuff in place. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kempy Posted August 17, 2015 Author Share Posted August 17, 2015 Before it all goes back together it's time to have a look at the auto fill and thermal expansion valve, as expected their titles fairly well describe their function. The Auto/Manual fill block it the large Brass block at the top left and about 85% of the bits here go into/onto that component, Auto-fill is by means of a water level probe that is height adjustable from the top of the boiler, the probe in turn connects electrically to a electronic sensing circuit and this in turn actuates an electromagnetic valve to add water to the boiler until the water reaches the probe again. This machine also includes a manual fill option for the purpose of initial filling of the tank, as the element needs to be immersed in water before it gets switched on, or, a manual fill in case the electronics die. On the bottom left in the picture above is the thermal expansion valve, it connects to the heat exchange side of the circuit and normally drips out a small amount of water as the water expands under heat, it's essential as there's normally no air in the circuit to act as a pressure buffer In the picture below is a closer look at the rear of the electronic fill valve and the jet that attaches to it, both are pretty manky. Electronic Fill valve. (new one on left) Surprise Surprise, another blocked Jet. Thit fits in the No.1 hole on the auto fill valve in the picture above. Looks like it's time to start up the bead blaster again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kempy Posted August 29, 2015 Author Share Posted August 29, 2015 Had a fellow OSGC drop in this morning so an early morning effort for a trial run before putting it all back together..an epic fail Motor bearings which were about the only thing I hadn't replaced and they decided it was time to seize solid (top one in the pic), managed to fly through the door 10 minutes before Saeco bearings closed, awesome that they had them in stock. Runs a lot smoother and quieter now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bangbug Posted August 29, 2015 Share Posted August 29, 2015 Awaiting decal instructions 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kempy Posted August 30, 2015 Author Share Posted August 30, 2015 On their way mate. Here's a couple of pics with the stainless all polished up and after a couple of coffee's made. Still have the final decals and brass nameplate to go on as well as the flexible steam wand, various bottom section covers and somehow polish the scratches out of the perspex cup holder on the top. I like the bottom section left black as you see it now with the under body showing so I'm pondering painting the stainless covers black... ( the covers you see with 'FAEMA" written on them in the first phoyo on page one) 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nominal Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 Wow, that looks super great! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xsspeed Posted August 30, 2015 Share Posted August 30, 2015 Man this looks ace in those picks they dont even do it justice compared tonin the flesh. Obviously your dedication has paid off! Now that pumps going Ill need another excuse to come round 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
63Ragtop Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 yep, sign me up for another test run haha. that looks awesome! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8Pete Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 Awesome. Can I book my machine in for a service? 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nvmyvl Posted August 31, 2015 Share Posted August 31, 2015 How bad are the scratches? I have a product i use at work called plexus. I will have a look and see if there is any left. If so, i will flick you a can.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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