Maru-So Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 You need to read some books Race car chassis - Design and construction by Forbes Aird is one I would recommend. It's easy to read and has plenty of real world advice that you really need. This book will explain in layman's terms how you design a chassis (even a simple one) taking into account the loads that said chassis will experience. After that maybe Tune to win by Carrol Smith. This book will help you understand the basics of suspension and steering systems. Nothing you've done thus far is safe or functional. Harsh but true. I mean even fundamental stuff, like you've welded the chassis with a gassless mig. Gassless mig's do a shit weld to start with, then i bet every weld's been stop-start forming heaps of cold brittle point and undercuts, all nice stress concentration points. Then you're going to hard mount a vibrating engine to the frame. The flat, twin beam chassis has no real torsional stifness and will flex. Between the flexy chassis and the engine vibrations the welds don't stand a chance. You would have been better off making a chassis from wood and bolting it together. That's not even touching your suspension design... It's kind of a case of "you don't know what you don't know" Take a week read two books, get learned and then do a proper job of it! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 dayum, should have called it a 4-wheel velobike so you're allowed to make it up how you want 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 ARE YOU FUCKEN SERIOUS? IT IS A GO CART, WHO GIVES A SHIT IF IT IS RUBBISH AS LONG AS IT DOES A SKID ON WET GRASS, THERE WILL BE A THOUSAND SMILES AND EVERYONE WILL BE HAPPY. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 ALSO FOR YOUR SUSPENSION ARM MOUNTS SOME SCH40 PIPE CUT TO LENGTH AND A COUPLE OF SUSPENSION BUSHES WOULD WORK GREAT, OTHERWISE JUST USE SMALLER DIAMETER PIPE AND FIND AN APPROPRIATE SIZED BOLT AND THEN FIT A GREASE NIPPLE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris.QCR Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Whoa! Might need to get Cletus over here for run down on certing cyclecars haha! Jezuz 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 Frame rails not correct size. Will never get a cert 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maru-So Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 You're right rookie, you're always right rookie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 I'm glad you understand that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maru-So Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 It helps when you feel the need to affirm it with every post Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 yep been discussing this with other AIRCRAFT ENGINEERS you fuck head, and came to the same conclusion as rookie, re some pipe cut to length and pressed in with a suitable bolt. i work with planes for a living and i know all about how stresses transmit through frames. and like ive said, the frame has not been completely finished, seeing as everything is so tightly packed, i am developing the whole chassis as i add in various systems so that nothing gets in the way. yes im welding with a gas less, yes its pretty shit but thats what ive got. ive been welding with this particular unit for nearly 10 years and can certainly get a nice strong weld from it. and as correctly pointed out, its a fancy go kart. couple that with the large quantity of similar karts in the world and i think ill be just fine. you don't know me, what im capable of doing and how many people (who are better still) giving input to this project. all you have to go off are some less than optimal photos. so in a way some of your points could have been valid, but in the end they are not. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 also i would like to highlight the fact that i am building a car that is inspired by race cars that are coming up to being 100 years old. having chassis thats not 100% correct is pretty much the whole point of the project. how do you think a 1930s race car would look like with a titanium alloy spaceframed chassis with cantilever trick suspension and a 6 pot four wheel disk brake setup? it would be very functional but it would also be a big heap of over engineered shit. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maru-So Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 Cool man, All the best, I look forward to following your progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
downtrail Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 phew grumpy 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted September 18, 2014 Share Posted September 18, 2014 how do you think a 1930s race car would look like with a titanium alloy spaceframed chassis with cantilever trick suspension and a 6 pot four wheel disk brake setup? it would be very functional but it would also be a big heap of over engineered shit. Bro that sounds mint as! It also sounds like something that artyone guy would try designing. Anyone remember him? Was building a house out of smashed tube TVs (or something) a few months back 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 The more I think about it, the more I think I accidentally designed the Arial atom in my head in 14 seconds lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted September 29, 2014 Author Share Posted September 29, 2014 started on the 'c notches' that the bearing blocks will mount to, in order to give the right ride height and to keep the chain fairly level with the engine. ive also ordered most of the steering parts, a nice weld on spindle kit that is widely used on cycle cars. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted October 9, 2014 Author Share Posted October 9, 2014 my steering spindle kit and wheel bearings showed up this morning! very happy with how heavy duty they are. also the retro looking pedals that i couldnt walk past for ~7 bucks a piece. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted October 9, 2014 Share Posted October 9, 2014 do you have to chop them up if you want/need ackerman? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted October 9, 2014 Author Share Posted October 9, 2014 pretty much./ just weld on the angled tab. ackerman angle was not my reason for buying them, its the several different types of metal shapes you need, of which i have one, and the fact that the axle to spindle joint will take a hamering and i wasnt confident doing that part diy spec. i will probably hook it all up as is, and if steering decides it wants ackerman i will add it in/might add it in anyway since its not hard. though they have been used very succesfully as in on many cycle cars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted October 10, 2014 Share Posted October 10, 2014 Get a book on chassis design if you need help 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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