Mof Posted June 15, 2014 Author Share Posted June 15, 2014 Yeah I tried googling to find pics on mounting rad for a pinto but couldn't find much So thanks BD! The rad is tilted slightly back the same angle as the engine, but that's because its on factory mounts Rad mounted inside mounts (towards grill) and shroud on outside(towards engine) Still have to get wire and gas for the mig Best place to get panel steel in CHCH? Notice the alternator top bracket? and the pulleys don't line up I don't mean it to sound like im whinging about faults, think of it as a mental note for future fixing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
browndog Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 Not whinging at all, you have a few issues to sort, thats all:) Okay looks like you might still have a 1300 rad fitted. Put a pic showing the front of the engine, looking towards the ground, to show gap between rad and fan. I don't think you are too far off there. I had an original RS2000 some years ago, and that shroud was mostly still there, just had the top of it cut out a bit more as rad was larger than what you have there. Fan always ran very close to the rad on that car, maybe 15mm? Alternator is not original Pinto, which wil explain alignment problem. They usually had Lucas ACR type, or a Bosch one fitted.Similar to: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/ford/electrics/auction-741934450.htm The adjuster bracket bolts to a threaded lug on the water pump. Throw that alternator in the bin and get a Lucas type one, they are pretty reliable anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted June 15, 2014 Author Share Posted June 15, 2014 A photo I took earlier, its fuckin cold outside and the heater in the gge ran outta gas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 Not whinging at all, you have a few issues to sort, thats all:) Okay looks like you might still have a 1300 rad fitted. Put a pic showing the front of the engine, looking towards the ground, to show gap between rad and fan. I don't think you are too far off there. I had an original RS2000 some years ago, and that shroud was mostly still there, just had the top of it cut out a bit more as rad was larger than what you have there. Fan always ran very close to the rad on that car, maybe 15mm? Alternator is not original Pinto, which wil explain alignment problem. They usually had Lucas ACR type, or a Bosch one fitted.Similar to: http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/ford/electrics/auction-741934450.htm The adjuster bracket bolts to a threaded lug on the water pump. Throw that alternator in the bin and get a Lucas type one, they are pretty reliable anyway. Yeah What he says! Can't believe he didn't box the crossmember! The rad can definitely sit a little closer to the front too and its a 1300 one. Hows the quality of the sump conversion, cut and shut? Or alloy one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
browndog Posted June 15, 2014 Share Posted June 15, 2014 OKay the rad is part fo the problem, the outlet is in the wrong place, and someone has bodgied the top hose. Here is a pic of my old RS2000, and shows what the top hose should look like. And a standard RS200 for comparison: It is possible your engine is mounted too far forward, or has the wrong rad fan. The engine does fit in there, but its tight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted June 16, 2014 Author Share Posted June 16, 2014 On 14/06/2014 at 15:50, mk2marty said: Don't mean to be pedantic, but it would have been built in Lower Hutt. They only built Mk2 sedans in Auckland. I was going off Wikipedia lol On 14/06/2014 at 15:50, mk2marty said: As for the gearbox/diff angle issues, i found this, which may or may not be of some use: http://rsmotorsport.com.au/files/Type9toMk2.pdf And while the front brakes are getting bigger, why not throw some 4 pot calipers off a Princess in? (although admittedly they could be a bit hard to find now) good read, I mean the diff is literally below horizontal, should be parallel to gearbox centreline. Probably just stick with the m16's, maybe vented depending on price at the time On 14/06/2014 at 15:50, mk2marty said: And I kinda like Garfield and Odie on the side, probably cos i had a lot of Garfield videotapes when i was a kid All the better to attract the kiddies with 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted June 16, 2014 Author Share Posted June 16, 2014 Yeah What he says! Can't believe he didn't box the crossmember! The rad can definitely sit a little closer to the front too and its a 1300 one. Hows the quality of the sump conversion, cut and shut? Or alloy one? And it got cert with that crossmember, and wofs Cut n shut, avg quality I thought it might be 1300 one, are the 2.0 rads deeper/3 core? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted June 16, 2014 Author Share Posted June 16, 2014 OKay the rad is part fo the problem, the outlet is in the wrong place, and someone has bodgied the top hose. Here is a pic of my old RS2000, and shows what the top hose should look like. It is possible your engine is mounted too far forward, or has the wrong rad fan. The engine does fit in there, but its tight! How do you figure its in the wrong place? looks the same as your van authough rad is different...? as far as I can see the rad is the same space from the fan as yours, that's why im thinking the 2.0 rad is thicker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J-W-G Posted June 16, 2014 Share Posted June 16, 2014 Look at the top right ( Ie you standing looking at the engine) see how its an "L" bend, all 2.0l cortina's and escort's had this type of radiator. Still its no bigger than the 1600 rad which dosent have the "L" bed rather the standard straight pipe as seen on the 1300 rad you have in there now. The 2000 and 1600 rads are abit taller Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mk2marty Posted July 12, 2014 Share Posted July 12, 2014 I have the same problem with the autochoke water housing on my Cortina, someone has attempted to remove it, snapped the bolt and Araldited the hole up. Murray at Weber Specialties has them new, so he'd be the man to talk to. Although down in Christchurch, Palmside might be the crowd to see..? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esky666 Posted July 23, 2014 Share Posted July 23, 2014 Pritty sure thats a rs2000 dash. Im running no choke on my weber starts up good. Few pumps on the gas on cold mornings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted July 23, 2014 Author Share Posted July 23, 2014 Na its been made to look like a RS2000, the 3 centre gauges have been retro fitted by cutting holes in the face. The Tacho gauge style doesn't match the speedo, you can see the centre needles are red not orange, and the centre gauge is vacuum (rs2000 is oil pressure)someones done a very tidy job though don't get me wrong Oh and the carb is all cleaned, and reassembled. got the bimetal working perfect on the choke butterflies, tested it with a heat gun. and I picked up a new diaphragm off trademe. Still not sure about the return fuel line though, I think im going to continue to run without. And plans are to soda blast the carb and manifold before refitting 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xygtho Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Hey pretty sure you are right about the wheel studs - 7/16 sound like Mk1, and the metric for the mk2. If you dont want to replace the whole hub and everything seems to be ok with your hub / stub setup you could just replace the studs. I think theyre about $10 or $12 each complete with a wheel nut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xygtho Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Oh yeah, forgot to add, if your van has small fron hubs, they can be the small disc hubs from Mk1 that was disc braked but fitted with 12" wheels from the factory - my Mrs had one like that about 25 years ago, it was a 1300L 4 door. Im pretty sure that all of the Escort front hubs take the same size wheel bearings, so that might be the reason the Mk1 hubs are on later Mk2 struts. Its usually a drama when someone fits Mk2 struts into a Mk1 and uses the Mk1 steering rack, as the taper on the ball joints are different. Mk2 struts have the steering arms cast onto the strut / stub whereas the Mk1 and RS stuff have bolt on steering arms. Sorry for the ramble, but hope this helps a little 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shaneo Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 My Van is a 79 and is on 12x 1.5 wheel studs sounds like mk1 on the front mk2 rear. From what I know you shouldnt need a return on your webber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted October 15, 2014 Author Share Posted October 15, 2014 Thanks guys that's what I was thinking. So are the rotor mount points the same on the back of the hubs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted October 17, 2014 Author Share Posted October 17, 2014 The mount on the back of the hub is not the same, and new mk2 rotors won't fit dammit!! So does anyone have a pair of mk2 front hubs? Cheers Mof Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 Did u sort mig issues? Did you go to 1.6mm contact tip when you changed the wire? Car looks to be going great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mof Posted June 8, 2016 Author Share Posted June 8, 2016 0.6? I didn't, and I probably should. I think the problem is the settings are not very good. One setting is too low and I don't get very good penetration, the next setting up and it starts blowing holes. The wire speed setting also controls one of the power settings. It's very agricultural. It also has another problem where it pops the 20a garage fuse if I weld on a high setting almost every time the trigger is pulled. But I'm talking a setting for 5mm+ steel. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted March 31, 2018 Share Posted March 31, 2018 Is it fucked or has it had a Generator conversion that needs the wiring sorted properly? Have you checked voltage out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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