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Help wanted with the ins and outs of VW air cooled motor rebuild


Seedy Al

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So guys

 

The time has come to sort out my VW Bay window, hopefully in time for hawkes Boes.

The run down is, the current motor in the bus, which was a cheap replacement, is seized so bad due to oil pump failure

 

However I have the original dual port 1600 motor sitting in my dads garage, read y for a pull down.

 

Firstly, I will give the history if what happened to the motor, and if anyone can give me pointers on things I need to look for or give an idea of what the problem with the motor might be, that would be most excellent indeed!

 

So, I went for a trip down to Wellington from Napier, and down a dodgy back road I noticed that my Charge light was on. Now, I know on an Air cooled motor, this means the cooling fan has most likely stopped working, so I pulled over as soon as I could, however, I don't actually know how long it had been on, my own fault for not eying the gauges a much as I usually do.

 

So fan belt was broken, and I had I no spare. Plus, motor had a nice hot smell about it, you know the one, where you can see the oil on the outside of the motor bubbling a little, Not so good.

You would probably consider it over heated....

Anyway, managed to hitch a ride back to the nearest town, to the local tractor repairer, who had a belt that was a little to long. However it fit and the fan worked, was just mega sloppy, and was causing the motor to vibrate a bit more that you would hope.

 

Anyway managed to get to wellington ok, and bought a correct spare sized belt, however I failed to fit it, and left the sloppy one on.

 

On my return trip to Napier, I was driving long a Straight road, and was getting the feeling that the motor was starting to struggle. Foot was flat and wasn't going as fast as I would have thought, Suddenly It missed and started making a noise like an exhaust leak, and filled the the air vents with smoke. So I pulled over and turned it off. Wasnt siezed or anything, but I did start noticing a bit of an oil leak.

 

Managed to nurse it to Danniverk, however it was a little missy and gutless at times. got to Gassers garage, after he spotted me at the local petrol station, and Joker gave me a tow to gassers work shop, where I jacked it up and checked out what I could, pulled of tappet covers and set those as there was no gap at all. Thinking this was the problem, I carried on, got about 20min up the road and it cut out completely,

However, I think this was an electrical fault. like a loose dissy wire..

Anyway, got towed home, replaced the leads and spark plugs and drive it round over hawkes boes, however the oil leak was progressively getting worse and worse, and as a result I managed to mildly heat seize it due to low oil.

 

Anyway after that I pulled the motor, and its a it sits now.

So the run down lol

 

Over heated motor,

Over sized fan belt,

Oil leak,

Exhaust leak.

motor midly siezed from no oil.

 

So..... firstly, anyone know what might have gone wrong to start with, give it an oil leak and not run correctly?

I wonder if I have pulled the thread in the bolts for the head bolts?

Any other thoughts?

 

But yeah., other questions, are there anythings I need I note before I pull it apart? I understand the thrust bearing can be a bit of a dick to setup with the fly wheel?

 

Anyway, my plans.

Pull motor apart, have crank checked and machined or polished, which ever is needed, new bearings on crank.

was thinking a new sleeve kit and pistons would probabaly be the best bet. But I have not priced this up....

 

Anyway, sorry, mega read post

ANy help would be grand

 

Cheers

Allan!

 

 

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Bro if mine is anything to go by, you've prob stuffed your rings with the overheat and it's got blow by pressuring the crankcase causing the leak..

 

Hmmm........ did seem to be leaking a fair amount tho.

 

Ok will start pulling motor down to its block anyway and start from there.

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yip

 

thats exactly what happened to mine

Managed to cover the front of Steelies Suzuki van at hawkes boes

 

Mean thanks man, dont really know why I had not thought about that side of it.

 

Also anyone know if that sleeve kit fits a 1600? would that make mine a 2 litre?

I assume crank cases are the same, just bigger sleeves and cylinders.......

 

Oh its Seedy Al by the way

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Biggest you can go bore wise is 88mm before you have to either start boring the case or turn down the spigot on some 90.5s ( 1776 with 90.5s), still have to bore heads oversize.

If you want reliable I'd stick with the std 85.5s or 87 (1641), I ran a set of 34 ict webers (single barrels) on a 1641 in a 70 kombi, went real well with that set up.

Just check the case for cracks around the oil gallery behind # 3, being a mag case it doesn't like extreme heat cycles, can get a bit brittle.

If you are interested I have a case from a 2110 in my cupboard of broken dreams, bored for 90.5s, needs a line bore and lifter bores sleeved = cheap.

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oh yip

 

ok, so far i have pulled the heads and barrels.

 

have found a totally fucked exhaust valve on the right rear cylinder. which was the one i thought had a problem.

as a result the head is fucked

 

part of the valve has been hitting the head, plus the exhaust burning it out also.

plus as expected, the bore is scored to crap. so yes, new barrels for sure

 

anyone got a twin port head kicking round???

 

also, next question

 

how do i remove the oil pump? once that is out its time to split the cases.......

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oh yip

 

ok, so far i have pulled the heads and barrels.

 

have found a totally fucked exhaust valve on the right rear cylinder. which was the one i thought had a problem.

as a result the head is fucked

 

part of the valve has been hitting the head, plus the exhaust burning it out also.

plus as expected, the bore is scored to crap. so yes, new barrels for sure

 

anyone got a twin port head kicking round???

 

also, next question

 

how do i remove the oil pump? once that is out its time to split the cases.......

bring the head to me

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