Roman Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Yeah these things are easy to say when it's not your car though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 I'm willing to help Tom/ do it for him if he stops wombling. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Yea but having a drag car with a million HP and poor rear end geometry doesn't sound like fun does it? Tom's my buddy and he will do what he needs to get it done I am sure. Just having yarns, Rookie is just blunt and makes it seem like we are ganging up on him haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 We are ganging up on him; that is how the best decisions get made hahahaha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Majority rules! make your car sit like the pink one at all costs. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Dave you think the car is terrible and will still do so regardless of what I do. (tbh I know it's a giant turd anyway) you just aren't doing a good job on convincing me in a constructive manner using facts and benefits it just seems like you are trying to use histrionics to justify your own opinion. Which you know only gets your back up when the shoe is on the other foot. E.G. give me some costs and benefits, pros and cons so I can judge the rate of return on investment and what it's worth to me yes I know ultimately in a drag car a full back half 4 link and panhard is superior to an OEM triangulated 4 link will it actually make the car faster in this case? I think unlikely and the difference is probably irrelevant the the scheme of things. It's going to be on coilovers so if it doesnt work down low its not too hard to jack it up to run a number. yes I know it will let me get more slammed which is pretty cool it would be nice but is it worth it for "maybe" 50mm more loweness? but it means throwning away or cutting up suspension arms, diff mount brackets, anti roll bar, mini tub kit and probably a few other things this hurts the pocket and ones gestalt significantly adds the time of cutting out more of the car ok maybe not that much time, but another evening or so. designing the back half and 4 link + panhard setup significantly more time, probably two weeks design and getting stuff plasma cut vs. no holdups/already have nearly everything I need purchasing additional materials to build such back half and extra arms $500-$1000 additional cost time to construct and install said back half, minimum one weekend drop spindles (putting aside cert issues) $1700 plus throwing away the 5 stud ones I have already bought so spending another ~$2500 and throwing away i don't want to think about how much for the other stuff. But most importantly I only have 25 days a year to work on these things so dave tells me. the biggest factor is time and I can't see how it does not add a very significant amount to my schedule. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Just get Rookie to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beaver Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Just ignore everything Dave says. Car would be done by now Xo 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Hahaha, Beave, exactly the opposite is true. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Just get Rookie to do it. What? ship it to Denmark? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Dude I am here for another 6 weeks; Come help paint my house this weekend and then we'll back half your car next weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Spencer, who never finishes any of his own projects because he overcomplicates things and gives up... Is telling you to take the most complicated, difficult and expensive option. Rookie, who notoriously undersells how long things take or how difficult they are, wants to cut your car in half just before gapping it overseas.Do you want to get it running and have some fun, or scope creep your finish line a few more years into the future?Keep the 4 link even if it aint great, or do whatever seems like it will help you get this up and running. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snoozin Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 I vote do a burnout. it won't matter if the car is high or low because you ain't gonna see shit anyway due to the copious amounts of burnout gas. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Roman Dave who thinks everything on cars is difficult and justified an Echo, thinks it is a bad idea. I think I know who I would trust on this decision. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 You guys seem to be missing the fact he has to cut a lot of the floor, and most of the chassis rails to make the factory suspension pick ups work. what I am proposing is simply cut a bit more of the floor and all of the chassis rails and then rebuild it with nice 75x50 box that you can actually weld to as opposed to trying to weld the shitty factory panel steel and make it strong. I promise you that using the factory pick ups isn't as easy as "bolt it in and do a skid cuz" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Bro. Do what you want to do with your current haul to get it rolling and legit. Cut some fine as shit strip numbers having a fucking blast doing it and if you reach peak point and want to shave some finer numbers or have a beast akin to ol'Pinky then do that later on. Not even a big deal. How many people build the end result first up? Fuck all, that's how many. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Except this is certainly one of those times when doing it right the first time will save you heaps of headaches in the future as the cage and everything will get tied into to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 Lol who wants to re-do the rear end in the future? I only joined in because the rear end setup is like the most important part of a drag car (ask any drag racing Barry) I would want it adjustable in every way possible from the get go and at least close to the right geometry when its at a road-going height? not much to ask while the whole arse is almost cut out. Yes shit is more expensive and will take more time, dunno if you have seen the rest of the build but that seems like a recurring theme? Sit down with rookie and see if he can actually help and go from there. I am speeno-never-finishes-projects and that is my story. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 With regards to low.. Who cares. Millions of HP makes even ugly cars awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted April 9, 2015 Share Posted April 9, 2015 You guys seem to be missing the fact he has to cut a lot of the floor, and most of the chassis rails to make the factory suspension pick ups work. what I am proposing is simply cut a bit more of the floor and all of the chassis rails and then rebuild it with nice 75x50 box that you can actually weld to as opposed to trying to weld the shitty factory panel steel and make it strong. I promise you that using the factory pick ups isn't as easy as "bolt it in and do a skid cuz" this is quite wrong. I only cut the rear well out because I got carried away/figured it would make welding in the coil over bar and ARB easier. I have to weld subframe connectors/chassis sittfeners in regardless but thats in the front half and makes no difference/is the same regardless of what I do in the back. the only welding on the factory mounts is seam welding, and welding a couple of rollcage bars to plates welded in to those areas plus a couple of small plates and washers below to strengthen things up the only cutting of the OEM suspension points is minor stuff around the corners of the mini tub install. the real question is whether I can get enough adjustment at the diff end to put the instant center far enough forward to tame the car after the hit IF it actually ends up have enough power that it needs to be "tamed" which can be acheived by raising the car if it comes to it. going to measure some stuff now to figure where the arms are likely to end up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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