SOHC Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 Cool thread My uncle owns this Bronze casting foundary in Auckland if thats of any use to anyone. Bronze piston munu lolz www.artworkscasting.com Is your uncle terry stringer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 Richard Wells Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDA780 Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 Awesome casting you have done man. From personal experience try avoid 3D scanners as they can be more of a hassle than drawing the part in CAD as they miss data points and are useless for shiny objects. Also Sketchup is a good basic CAD program but has a problem creating a accurate stl file for 3D printing. Stick to SolidWorks and the like. Finally for $800 what you get is pretty awesome. The motor's, extruder head and structure is worth it. I wouldnt reccomend anyone get anything less than a MakerBot as they have a good resolution. Sorry if spam. Has anyone used other plastics such as Nylon as a mould? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 So how do you make a two piece sand mould around a wooden object? How do ya seperate the halfs? Or is that not possible? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 watch the first video i posted your part is 2 pieces and you pack 1/2 in a frame and then flip it, put the other 1/2 of the part on and put the other frame on it and line the frame up. Put more sand in to fill the top 1/2 and then split the 2 frames and pull out the 2 pieces and you have a mould. Granted i missed out the riser and filler etc but you get the gist maybe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 From personal experience try avoid 3D scanners as they can be more of a hassle than drawing the part in CAD as they miss data points and are useless for shiny objects. what about for scanning things like, say, a car door? What sort of units have you used? this is something Ive been wondering about recently, I need to do some learning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BDA780 Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 I used a small part scanner,can't remember the brand. Not sure about handheld scanners. You could also use a cmm machine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Evan Posted June 18, 2013 Share Posted June 18, 2013 You could also use a cmm machine ahhhhhhhhh thats what those are called. That was the other thing, Ive seen them used but never known what they are referred to as. cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thorburnville Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 if anyone is wanting an induction furnace i'm trying to free up some space http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=612562987 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 What you want for it? Though I don't actually have 3phase :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thorburnville Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 I paid $315. Reserve is $300, buy now of 350. Will probably offer it to the highest bidder or if someone makes an offer on here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 I paid $315. Reserve is $300, buy now of 350. Will probably offer it to the highest bidder or if someone makes an offer on here Hey man, I have a mate that will buy this. I'll ring him now and see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 In case Simons guy falls through etc, can you describe the electronics? Just trying to find out if it really needs 3 phase or if it can be rewired to use a 32A single phase connection? Is there also some markings in how much power it uses? Might have a look what a high power VFD is worth to make 3 phase from a 32A single phase connection.... In reality none of this is likely to happen, but have been wanting to build an LPG one for a little while now but if this works out cost effective, it could be worth looking into Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 Some questions from this guy. Does it have any brand identification / numbers? Does it have a lid? Does it have a timer and a thermostat? Does it have a crucible in it? What's the max temp? Does it have any sort of power rating on it? What frequency? Is it water cooled? Could you get some more photos too? Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thorburnville Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 No brand or identification. Yes it has a lid No signs of a timer, Should be able to get some more photos tonight No crucible. Not sure on max temp Not sure on the power rating. Hopefully someone wiser then me can tell from the photos Also not sure of frequency Not water cooled Ned I'll get some more photos and some part numbers posted up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toucan Posted July 7, 2013 Share Posted July 7, 2013 PLA stable Chortle 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NicT Posted July 16, 2013 Share Posted July 16, 2013 Chortle Should have put it in context. PLA is more stable to extrude on an unheated plateform and less likely to distort during the manufacture of 3d printed parts then ABS if the printer is more exposed to elemental temperature changes. ABS with pull, lift and warp if not kept at a more uniform temperature in comparison. PLA is more unstable if you were to keep the part on the dashboard of your car, or in your pocket when you went for a run VS ABS For casting I suggested PLA as it has no petrolium base contaminates, so if you were to hot pour into the part it would vapourise with no residue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sentra Posted July 16, 2013 Share Posted July 16, 2013 (d is the king of commercial pla research) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted July 16, 2013 Author Share Posted July 16, 2013 I am going to cranck things up a few degrees, I have a big silicon carbide crucible, it was quit expensive, I am going to try doing some cast iron, started bulding an oil burner, only problem I need $300+ worth of refractory cement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted July 16, 2013 Share Posted July 16, 2013 time for a group buy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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