Seedy Al Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 So, this has been built for a while And most of you have no likely seen it in the strokers thread. however I have started working on it again, so figured its time to mash together a build thread. The History: Basicly I had an old Haro BMW I started putting a Briggs and stratton motor in, and firgured it was never going to happen, So it was time to build something much better. So using a 7HP chinese copy motor Me and manu Literally fished out of a Skip bin at bunnings, we took it bak to his work shop, put oil in it and bam, thing was working like a dream. Only reason motor was in there was an oil leak, which would have been a major if i wasnt cutting all the generator part off it anyway. Then it was time to make some magic happen, bought a length of steel, got it bent at exhaust shop, and started fabbing up the frame. rear loops were bent out of some water pipe that we had at work, ummmmmm, galvy goodness. Also had an oil Saw bench attachemnt that turned into a lay shaft. Anyway........ After getting it all mashed together. it was deemed my damn pully ratios were way out (something I hadnt really thought about when trying to get it built in such short time) So the friday before Dromageddon, I was chopping out pullys etc. And and the saturday also. Anyway, after initial testing, it was concluded my rake is way to much (a result of totally changing my design half way through) and it gets mad shakes off the gas. And my brake is super shit, so now fitting a disc brake to my rear wheel, Also, my clutch was a fail after having to change my pully sizes, so now looking into other options for that. Anyway, pics 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted May 20, 2013 Author Share Posted May 20, 2013 Some more pics, the pullys you can see have been down sized these resulted in a top speed 80.4 Top speed Pretty damn good. But yeah freaky at speed And yeah, as it sits All started to be pulled apart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted May 20, 2013 Author Share Posted May 20, 2013 Just coz Also, plan on making my clutch setup work on the rear multi V belt, hopefully, should be much easier than trying to figure out how to do it off my front drive A section pully, as its tooooooo short Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 That looks sooooo good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 Just coz Also, plan on making my clutch setup work on the rear multi V belt, hopefully, should be much easier than trying to figure out how to do it off my front drive A section pully, as its tooooooo short Dunno, I find mine very grabby with the tensioner clutch on the multirib, rookies and thrillers are far more progressive. but tehn again it might be my gearing and the foot clutch contributing to that. also dont forget the bit where you burnt your leg like burt munro ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 What about doing it like this on the vee belt one? Also you want like 75mm of trail for good handling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted May 20, 2013 Author Share Posted May 20, 2013 this was how I did have it set up originally before the pullys get shorter Its still an option for sure. was originally concerned it was pulling the belt to much away from the pully, But now with the smaller pully it might be better. cool. Was still hoping to have it spring loaded and realised off a cable like yours, but for some reason I just couldnt get enough pull out of the cable Any chance of a bunch of pictures and measurments off your clutch setup rookie? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted May 20, 2013 Share Posted May 20, 2013 Yea I can take a picture with a ruler next to it for you, but we just winged it on both mine and thrillers bikes and it turned out pretty good, we found having heaps of spring tension was key, and all the cable had to do was pull it off by about an inch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted May 20, 2013 Author Share Posted May 20, 2013 I kinda got my working at the time, but for some reason the cable wasnt strong enough or my clamp wasnt atleast, might revise it. that would be great chap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 nice Al, hey lets roll Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alfalfa Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 Get a real grunty spring. You want one that you can barely move with your hands, cos it will probably have something like a 4-5x reduction on it at the end of the clutch arm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 Get a real grunty spring. You want one that you can barely move with your hands, one from your mum's bed will be sweet, cos it will probably have something like a 4-5x reduction on it at the end of the clutch arm. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 al i found a tough as shit tension spring at work, will stash Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alfalfa Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 Our local Bunnings had a good selection of springs so keep that in mind if Old Mother Manu's is too saggy/sloppy/worn-out etc 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted May 22, 2013 Author Share Posted May 22, 2013 I had some pretty strong ones WIll try again once I have the frame sorted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KIRK Posted May 25, 2013 Share Posted May 25, 2013 Man I love your red wheels. Make tensioner like I did(pushing from the outside of the belt). It wraps the belt around the pully more. That's mainly why I did it. clutching is secondary function. I had massive belt slip issues on kirk mark 3 even tho belt was super toight. Now belt wraps more around the wheel and pully and its sweet edit: I got my spring from hammer hardware. They had a big selection. I think I chose 7kg(could be wrong) and it works good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted May 25, 2013 Author Share Posted May 25, 2013 yeah the problem being I cant put the tensioner on the outside pushing in, it pushes both sides of the belt together Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted May 26, 2013 Share Posted May 26, 2013 al i cant weld anything to your rear hub, it's alloy. and the freewheel innards unscrew under braking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted May 27, 2013 Author Share Posted May 27, 2013 all good mate who needs brakes anyway. will collect on wednesday but thanks heaps!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted May 27, 2013 Share Posted May 27, 2013 Switch these 2 pulleys around (I know you have already downsized your pulley on the front) It will decrease your top speed substantially, but I'm pretty sure you said it was too scary anyway.. Then set up the idler bearing to run as close as possible to the rearmost of these 2 pulleys and use that as your clutch. MSPaint assistance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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