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Seedy Al's 4 Stroke Velo Racer


Seedy Al

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i would put the idler on the inside of the V belt, as V belts dont like bending the other way. You'll break the strands inside the belt and it will start stretching and will break sooner. You can still do the tensioning thing the same way

realy? victa mower has it like this from factory and belt lasts for THOUSANDS of hours. I've gone through 3 engines for 1 drive belt on one mower

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You have to get the right belt.

 

Can't remember what the difference is, but on dads mower the belt crapped out, so we replaced it with a standard vee belt, and would be replacing them literally once a month.

We started buying the super expensive John Deere belts and had no more problems.

 

Ned speaks the truth!

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oh yeh I think you are right. they are special belts on mowers I believe. Either way its just a velobike, its not guna do much mileage and belts can be replaced so its not really an issue. My belt still works after tensioning the fuck out of the wrong side. got my moneys worth

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Back on the handling/steering angle chat: The front forks look like they are off a BMX, so you should aim to get the Headtube angle as close to stock for that BMX as you can. Bicycles are nearly always super stable, even at pretty high speeds (60kph+).

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^nah copy a healing 10 speed angle. Bmx is made for slower speed handling. kirk mark 3 had bmx spec headtube angle and it was sketchy at speed. On kirk mark 4 me and sam kept the angle the same as the 10 speed was and it is perfect. about half way between what alain has now and  tomstatements bike

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weld it up and go to the velodrome.

is driveline good to go once frame is welded?

 

It can be if I revert back to solid drive for now

 

However, I also need about half a meter length of 1.5 inch tube?

The bottom piece of mine is now to short

Slam damn

 

As for guessing it, its looking like, where I want it is about right enough, probabaly 2 inch to tail

 

But Depending on when you hit the drome I probabaly wont be able to join.

I'm sacked out on sunday checking out a datsun with a dude

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  • 2 weeks later...

So currently uo tp this point with it really, pretty much ready for welding

 

IMG_0380_zps873f296f.jpg

 

After cutting of the head tube, and adjusting the angle to over come my steering wobbles, it as It had predicted, made my top tube angle fucken miles off, so options were pretty limited.

Either replace the top tube completely, or, moddify the tobe tube bend,

AS the tube was pretty thick, it wasnt going to bend easy, and most likley just buckle, so instead I put a few pie cuts in it to open it up, and will weld these up and grind them back to clean it up, should be strong enough, tho I'm not that excited about it

 

I also must have removed atleast 120mm out of its length, which is going to be super handy

Couldnt really go any shorter with still having clearence for the tyre against the bottom tube

 

IMG_0382_zpsc47b1766.jpg

 

As you can see, the result of these two mods has cetainly improved its likelyness to handle a bit better, and after seeing some people go round the welly track, any help is good, becasue fuck its bumpy

 

Before

 

IMG_0320_zpsde3d77b0.jpg

 

After

 

IMG_0383_zps50c32c1c.jpg

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Yo Owl,

Frilly and I just measured our velobikes, I have 128mm and he has 16 mm of trail, kinda explains why his is super unstable at speed hahaha

 

Anyway, you should shoot for something close to my dimensions (I think your head tube looks a little steep now):

 

dh4Z5.jpg

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