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Seedy Al's 4 Stroke Velo Racer


Seedy Al

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yeh do that.

 

I saw you can get these disk brake mounting things that screw onto hubs and they use the same thread as regular bmx freewheel. useless info but I know where some are if you want one

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i would put the idler on the inside of the V belt, as V belts dont like bending the other way. You'll break the strands inside the belt and it will start stretching and will break sooner. You can still do the tensioning thing the same way

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but then I'm loosing grip around the pullys.

This is what I tried origanlly, and found it slipped  just pushing it round

 

Steelies is getting me a slightly bigger pully from his work, I predict this will be good.

 

Now I need to figure out how to bend my frame as I have cut off the head tube to change the rake, but now my tub tube is totally wanting to join in the wrong place, as I had some what predicted.

 

As for speed being scary, I am working on making the bike handle better, as I would like to maintain this speed as much as possible, need to beat the red Baron.

 

Kirk, That actually sounds like something I would be keen on, tho I dont understand at all how it would work

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I should explain.

 

Sports bikes have very twitchy steering; due to steep head angles, this means they have a relatively small amount of trail, and hence require steering dampers to prevent tank slappers. The pro to all this is they change direction very quickly.

 

Choppers are the opposite, and hence can do this:

steven-stone-bike-surf1.jpg

 

 

KK is dead on with trail explanation.

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So essentially Seedy - you have to make your steerer tube more vertical - (gaaaaaay cos it will alter the rake of the forks unless you build in a different angle between the steerer tube and fork angle) 

 

Or increase the offset of the wheel to the fork by spacing the wheel out from the forks (by far the easiest - but don't go too far because it can be even worse than not enough..

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Hmmm Id have thought more load on front would create greater contact with the ground at speed and thus greater stability.

 

I know that whenever i have gone on longer bike rides on road bikes and had panniers filled with a lot of weight on the back wheel the front felt pretty squirrely at speed - front panniers felt a lot better.

 

I stand corrected though

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dont forget trail distance isn't everything,  the relationship between trail and head angle can fuck with you too

 

Al, what is the actual symptom when at speed?  twitchy? constantly fighting the bars flopping over?unresponsive?

 

tbh all my bikes have atrocious geometry, the thing that scares me enough to not do it is rear set pegs and a seating position where you can't be on the bike without your hands supporting body weight.

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problem being off the gas it gets twitchy as fuck

So yeah, I am shortening the bike, relocating foot pegs to get weight off the bars, and adjusting head tube angle, as it was pretty much set at exactly what our boy hayhole has posted lol

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yes exactly like that seedy alain. They come on shit warehouse spec bikes I think... Anyway, I did some investigating(I went to the bike shop and tested it out), and they screw onto a regular bmx hub. You would just needa run the hub back to front from usual way. Ima grab one for me, can get one for you aswel if you want. It means you can have disk brake by using a regular bmx rear wheel instead of having to put a mountain bike hub into a bmx rim like dave and steve did. /brakes are for fags.

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