M_C Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 I got the escort for a good spanking run at Hampton at the end of Oct. Great Fun! Just a couple of issues of fuel serge and overheating so an excellent result for first shakedown run. The fuel serge was I think just lack of fuel in the tank… The V6 is thirstier than I thought. The overheat after 4 hot laps I plan to fix with a new aluminium radiator to replace the original 40 year old beast of unknown blockage and suspect abilities. But now I am wondering how to size the radiator and having trouble getting one to fit. The hole in the bulkhead in the front of the engine bay has a hole 510mm wide x 340mm high. Is it worth getting a radiator with a core bigger than this? I am not sure as any larger will be mostly shrouded by the bulkhead. One candidate is an STA RX7 aluminium radiator with code 522 x 350 x 60mm. I am not sure how much the extra thickness helps. Would this be big enough? Next candidate is Fenix Torana Aluminium with core 612 x 348 x 56mm, but will need some modifications to fit and extra width will not see much air. Thoughts / comments? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 Get as big a radiator as your can fit in there - your friend is volume. (you can cut holes in the bulkhead for more airflow at a later date) Alloy rads do not necessarily mean cooler - copper radiators cool better but are heavy. Race cars use alloy rads cos they are lighter, easier to repair and manufacture. Are you using a stock Escort radiator at the mo?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_C Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 Current radiator is I think the original Zodiac one theV6 Essex was from as no radiator cap on the radiator, its on the engine inlet manifold. I am thinking Old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_C Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 Get as big a radiator as your can fit in there - your friend is volume. (you can cut holes in the bulkhead for more airflow at a later date) Even if it is not going to get much airflow? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 Take your radiator and get it checked over by a rad shop first. If they say its pretty good nick then ask them what they can do about putting a bigger core between the tanks - they run V8's in the Zodiac/Zephyr's so you must be able to get a decent multi core insert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 Even if it is not going to get much airflow? Can't hurt having that extra volume to be honest.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_C Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi808 Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 Were abouts are you? Jason at Auckland Radiators is a legend. He used to build some awesome rads for our ealry rotaries. One thing about copper/brass rads is that you can pretty much chop and change them no worries, by that I mean you can move inlet/outlets from one side to another and change mounting brackets really easily as they are soldered together. With an alli one I would imagine that they would be harder to modifiy as it would all need alli welding down. I guess what I am saying is with a copper and brass one you could custom fit it to your car, but with an Alli one you might have to custom your car to the rad? My £0.02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
capone Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 Can't hurt having that extra volume to be honest.. Be careful in this regards. You want the engine to sit at its operating temperature which is controlled by the thermostat. With too much airflow through the radiator the water in the rad gets too cold and then when the thermostat opens up the engine cools to much which closes the thermostat and the process starts again - you will see the temp go from operating to cold to operating to cold etc etc Im going through this currently where I will have to block off the lower portion of the rad to get temp to sit at operating temp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 that's easier than being too hot though! I vote finding the biggest jap car radiator that will fit and buying its ebay aluminum upgrade. I had a mk4 TT supra rad in my truck off ebay as it was the biggest I could find and because it was a well known model of car it was cheaaaaaap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Llama Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 ^^This is a good point. A similar thing happened (although was not the only factor) in the MGF, and the thermal shock of warming and cooling means they shit head gaskets like no tomorrow. You can always get an oversize radiator, then block of some of it with a board or something though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_C Posted November 15, 2012 Author Share Posted November 15, 2012 Good point on the too much cooling. Had not thought of that. Not sure this is going to be a problem though as STA radiator was typo in catalogue and only 522 x 270 x 60 not 522 x 350. Volume 0.011m3, area 0.141m2 which seems too small. Plan D was Fenix radiator, but that one not in stock. Inventing plan E now. Maybe BWM M3 will fit at core 550 x 440 x 42. Got to check overall sizes. Or end up at plan F and get it custom made. Track day approaching now… Not sure what a radiator shop can do with the existing one or if it is worth taking it in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted November 15, 2012 Share Posted November 15, 2012 They can do plenty with them. Plus it makes it easy. Go see them. I suspect you will be surprised. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spencer Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 Yea do what KK said, if the current rad is in OK condition but blocked up you may not need a upgrade. My last radiator flush, pressure test and paint on a old rad was like $80-100 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
My name is Russell Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 Got a fan shroud? Or though this might not apply so much at race pace but could help remove air from a small air locked engine bay? No air locks? Fan itself working alright? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_C Posted November 16, 2012 Author Share Posted November 16, 2012 Got two pushing fans blowing hard. Only one is shrouded and there is a gap before the radiator so some airflow through but not maximized. Pretty sure no air locks. -How do you tell?? Coolant boiling after stopping not a good sight. Always let her run a fast idle for a couple of minutes and bonnet up after the track time. Radiator sized cardboard template time this weekend... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muncie Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 Have you thought about going to a electric water pump with controller? modern technology is awesome these days be worthwhile as well as a new rad would sort out your issues no doubt. will be fitting one after my engine rebuild. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rookie Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 ^worst idea ever.. Have a read on how many people have been dissapointed by them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eke_zetec_RWD Posted November 16, 2012 Share Posted November 16, 2012 Fenix rx3 rad is good. What I use in my mk1. Never gets hot even behind a intetcooler and factory front Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M_C Posted November 20, 2012 Author Share Posted November 20, 2012 So I got carried away and bought a shiny new thing. $120 to get the old one checked or $300 for brand spanking alloy... That should keep the heat under control. Little bit of fettling to get it in needed now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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