Roman Posted September 25, 2017 Share Posted September 25, 2017 ^^^That's the only reason I own a car at all EDIT: TOTP fail Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted September 28, 2017 Share Posted September 28, 2017 EDIT: Nevermind need to revise my methodology and report back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted September 28, 2017 Share Posted September 28, 2017 In other news, Our Toyota Crown is currently running a carb 5M (I think its a 5M anyway) Have decided to just chuck the engine and all associated EFI gear from the spare soarer shell into it, so EFI 5M or 6M instead. Thinking it'll be fun to run a megasquirt or similar on it, for a 6 cyl engine what is the cheapest megasquirt setup that can: -Run injection on a 6 cyl engine batch firing injectors in pairs at max? -Any complications with running an auto box from an early 80s EFI car? -Capable of closed loop lambda correction -Will I have any weird complications with triggers or whatever for this sort of engine? Not really keen to make new trigger wheels etc if I can help it. Suggestions ahoy / should I just stick with the devil I know and get a G4+ Atom or similar. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peteretep Posted September 28, 2017 Share Posted September 28, 2017 can you explain all the Link ecu's dave, they used to have 'buy to unlock' type features from memory, and now they seem to have a bunch more ecu's instead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fletch Posted September 28, 2017 Share Posted September 28, 2017 7 hours ago, Roman said: In other news, Our Toyota Crown is currently running a carb 5M (I think its a 5M anyway) Have decided to just chuck the engine and all associated EFI gear from the spare soarer shell into it, so EFI 5M or 6M instead. Thinking it'll be fun to run a megasquirt or similar on it, for a 6 cyl engine what is the cheapest megasquirt setup that can: -Run injection on a 6 cyl engine batch firing injectors in pairs at max? -Any complications with running an auto box from an early 80s EFI car? -Capable of closed loop lambda correction -Will I have any weird complications with triggers or whatever for this sort of engine? Not really keen to make new trigger wheels etc if I can help it. Suggestions ahoy / should I just stick with the devil I know and get a G4+ Atom or similar. A lot of thise early 80s autos had an independent ecu for the trans. If your converting from carb its not like the engine is going to have any less electronic wizardy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted September 28, 2017 Share Posted September 28, 2017 8 hours ago, peteretep said: can you explain all the Link ecu's dave, they used to have 'buy to unlock' type features from memory, and now they seem to have a bunch more ecu's instead Yeah sure, so the latest range of ECUs is called the G4+ They used to have unlockable features that you would need to pay for, (Like ethrottle control, knock sensing, etc) but now they made them all free. I think they were trying to copy Motecs previous strategy of charging for every single option (It's more expensive to buy an old Motec ECU and unlock the options, than it is to buy a new Motec ECU that has this stuff standard...) So the main difference between the variations of the G4+ ECUs is how many inputs and outputs they have (and then price) So the most basic version is a Link G4+ Atom which has just the basics and not enough to control VVTI etc. All the way through to G4+ Thunder which has a massive amount of inputs and outputs (it has 4 loom plugs on it) So if you're just wanting to control an engine then usually an Atom/Monsoon/Storm is good enough, if you want to run the rest of the car as well with lots of inputs and outputs then something fancier from there. I think the heirachy from cheapest to most expensive (and fewest to most features) is something like: Atom Monsoon Storm Fury (Designed for 6 cyl engines and has onboard wideband controller which is cool) Xtreme Thunder (Has stuff like onboard K type thermocouple amplifiers, accellerometer, 2 ethrottle motor controllers.) Then there are some other versions of the ECU that are "plugin" versions, so they have the plugs so they plug straight into an Evo or whatever without any wiring needed. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted September 28, 2017 Share Posted September 28, 2017 2 hours ago, fletch said: A lot of thise early 80s autos had an independent ecu for the trans. If your converting from carb its not like the engine is going to have any less electronic wizardy Oh what I mean is we would prefer to use the autobox that comes with the EFI engine as it's a bit newer. (But early 80s) But yeah sounds like could just use the older autobox with it if needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted September 28, 2017 Share Posted September 28, 2017 10 hours ago, Roman said: In other news, Our Toyota Crown is currently running a carb 5M (I think its a 5M anyway) Have decided to just chuck the engine and all associated EFI gear from the spare soarer shell into it, so EFI 5M or 6M instead. Thinking it'll be fun to run a megasquirt or similar on it, for a 6 cyl engine what is the cheapest megasquirt setup that can: -Run injection on a 6 cyl engine batch firing injectors in pairs at max? -Any complications with running an auto box from an early 80s EFI car? -Capable of closed loop lambda correction -Will I have any weird complications with triggers or whatever for this sort of engine? Not really keen to make new trigger wheels etc if I can help it. Suggestions ahoy / should I just stick with the devil I know and get a G4+ Atom or similar. You can add additional injection and ignition outputs to a MS2, mines set up for wasted spark and semi-sequential injection. Otherwise there's the DIYPNP unit for the 5/6mge that plugs straight into the factory loom. Does closed loop lambda and all that. Box depends on the box. The 5MGE had an electronic trans that ran off a seperate computer, probably not hard for it to keep running off it's factory TCU if required. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted September 28, 2017 Share Posted September 28, 2017 Oh that's cool about the plug and play for 5/6M! Sounds like way to go. I think it's a 6m in the Soarer currently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted September 28, 2017 Share Posted September 28, 2017 https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/hardware/diypnp/documentation/application-docs/1985-1986-toyota-supra/ Runs a microsquirt module so easily upgradable to semiseq / wasted IGN too 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 I've had some interesting results with injection timing at idle, and a friend found that with E85 cold starts became much better with approx 250 degrees BTDC end of injection for timing. Rather than 400deg default setting which fires fuel before valve opens. So I thought I'd try something else at a higher rpm and low load. With the car bonnet up, oil cooler fan on and radiator fan on to try stabilise conditions. I used the e-throttle to increase minimum throttle position the engine sat at 2500rpm and at the goal AFR. Then I iteratively increased the injection timing from 0 degrees through to about 550. I wasnt able to control ever variable here as when the rpm changes slightly it interpolates the ignition timing and fuelling slightly. But it was interesting to see that changing the injection timing alone caused a very clear pattern here. As for interpreting the results however, Dont know. Maybe higher rpm for same mass of air = more power / better air fuel mix? My best results at idle were around the 220deg mark, but I'm guessing ~300 looks best here unless anyone has any other thoughts. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted September 30, 2017 Share Posted September 30, 2017 I'm quite interested in this. In my mind, with a fixed throttle position and injection quantity, any rpm increase from injection timing change would imply more power is being produced as a result of better A/F mixing. The O2 sensor should also read richer as well. I'd be keen to see how the injection timing should change under load, but that could be pretty difficult to tune with out a steady state dyno 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Testament Posted October 3, 2017 Share Posted October 3, 2017 will depend on injector size/duration of pulsewidth and timing relative to valve events. e.g injection during overlap or not etc. as well as valve open/closed. when you inject during overlap you end up with a leaner mix since some amount of fuel is is buggering off out the exhaust. could explain your dip around 400-450 deg. use some ms paint technology to add intake and exhaust valve opening on the right hand y axis? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anglia4 Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 Is there any reason an el-cheapo ECU couldn't run a single cylinder 2 stroke? im thinking speeduino on my TF125. Would the lack of revolutions per cycle cause issues or can you make the injectors/sparkers fire on every rev? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 It should be fine. Those settings are all controlled by a simple dialog box asking what stroke and how many cylinders your engine has. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted October 8, 2017 Share Posted October 8, 2017 Interesting article on pipe length / power differences http://www.autospeed.com.au/cms/article.html?&A=107749 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted October 24, 2017 Share Posted October 24, 2017 Has anyone here setup an exhaust pressure sensor before? Looking at OEM setups for diesel differential pressure sensors, they have a fairly short stainless steel pipe connecting to the exhaust, and then a length of rubber(?) hose going to the sensor mounted remotely. But perhaps these are more resilient to heat than the map sensor I'm going to use. Or maybe diesel exhaust gas isnt as hot? I'll be expecting EGTs of maybe 600-800 deg? So needs to cool the gas quite a bit. Damn I wish I still had my thermal camera haha. Have been advised using copper pipe is a good plan for dissipating the heat, but then what after that? Would silicone hose be okay? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 exhaust gas isnt really going to be flowing through the pipe. so would be more the fact the pipe is in contact with the exhaust. the length of copper and maybe some kind of heat sink (if you wanted to get fancy) before joining onto the flexi hose should be enough. silicone is probably better since it can handle a bit more heat. i take it you are using a pick a part spec map sensor for trial and error anyway? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted October 25, 2017 Share Posted October 25, 2017 I'm very interested to see some back pressure graphs 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted October 25, 2017 Author Share Posted October 25, 2017 9 hours ago, Roman said: Damn I wish I still had my thermal camera haha. WTF! You've sold it? Why?!!!! Was such a cool toy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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