ta63-1uzze Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 So I am at a stage where I need to start running fuel lines. I have been told that there is some tube that I can get from BnT that is made out of soft compound so you can bend it by hand without crushing the centre flat. Can’t quite remember what it’s made of possibly copper nickel or something. I haven’t had to build a fuel system before so I am in need of advice. I need to know what size pipe I need to buy and how to terminate it at each end. Will flexible fuel hose work or will I need to have braded hose and connectors? Will I have to flare the ends like a brake pipe setup if using these style connectors? So far I have these components bosh 044 pump that I will be putting in the tank in the factory cradle (I am not sure if this will flow enough fuel so any input here would help also), 7mge injector’s 295cc (x8) factory fuel rails and regulators. I have a link ecu so won’t have to run an aftermarket pressure regulator (please correct me if i am wrong, am running a supercharger max of 10psi is the plan). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 295CC seems pretty small, how much power do ya plan on making? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 Steel fuel lines can be a prick. Make it out of 3/8th and you shouldn't have problems. I have made fuel lines out of 6mm rod and then used that as a template to bend the steel tube. You can cut the 6mm and weld it together to get the shape you want. A little pipe bender is the best to bend it with, they usually cost around $50. To crox the end hust give it a little nudge with a flairing tool, like you were going to do a double flair but stop as soon as the tube starts to compress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted April 29, 2012 Author Share Posted April 29, 2012 295CC seems pretty small, how much power do ya plan on making? hey , yeah i got the injector size from this guide " http://www.lextreme.com/R&D%20Injector.htm" . i am not planning on making huge amounts of power per say. more or less planning on setting it to run 7 to 10 psi max as i am concerned about the amount of power the diff will take and because of the torque that will be being applied to it i am weary not to wind up the boost in case I blow it to a million bits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted April 29, 2012 Author Share Posted April 29, 2012 Steel fuel lines can be a prick.Make it out of 3/8th and you shouldn't have problems. I have made fuel lines out of 6mm rod and then used that as a template to bend the steel tube. You can cut the 6mm and weld it together to get the shape you want. A little pipe bender is the best to bend it with, they usually cost around $50. To crox the end hust give it a little nudge with a flairing tool, like you were going to do a double flair but stop as soon as the tube starts to compress. yeah luckily i have the original line to use as a template but i like that idea is very good way of mocking up lines, i have used brake line for making clutch pipe but never fuel line hence why i am not sure how to connect it to the engine/and pump . . . we do have a flaring tool at work but i am not sure if it goes up to 3/8. As it is only a small kit used primarily for repairing brake pipe, Will have a look on Monday see what I can find. So if I partially flair the end does this set me up to use high pressure fuel hose and fuel hose clamps for connectors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yowzer Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 Ah yep, that's roughly the power figures I had guessed for 7M injectors. Ya could put an adjustable FPR on to crank a bit more out of them if needed. 10PSI should get a decent bit of power from a 1UZ. RX7 injectors are pretty bloody lush if you can find 8 of them. That site says you need RX7 connectors to suit, but they are the same as 1JZ. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 Yeah pretty much. I'll try take a photo for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 So what's best pipe then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valiant Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 So what's best pipe then? I've always used steel bundy. Heres the some photos of what I was talking about. Pipe bender: This style does larger tube without collapsing it around the bend. Put the pioe in the flairing tool as normal. Set it up like you are going to do a double flair and give it a few turns down. Once it's done it should look a bit like this (I under did this a little) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted April 29, 2012 Author Share Posted April 29, 2012 awesome info , great pictures too, i will call BnT tomorrow and find out about tube and a tube bender. see if they have that softer tube, might make life a bit easier has anyone else used this softer tube that I have been told about ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SOHC Posted April 29, 2012 Share Posted April 29, 2012 That Copper nickel tube is very expensive but it dosn't rust and you can bent it with your hands, I think steel bundy is cheaper but much harder to work with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted April 29, 2012 Author Share Posted April 29, 2012 Choice, that is what i like to hear. Will put it on work account so hopefully it is a bit cheaper. will grab a few meters tomorow if they have it in stock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted April 30, 2012 Author Share Posted April 30, 2012 have got all the right gear at work yay, also ordered the copper type pipe from bnt and it will be there tomorow , full steam ahead Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted May 1, 2012 Share Posted May 1, 2012 Yeah the copper stuff is the bees knees Fuck I hate bending up lines though, I can never get them as tidy as I want. but thats just me I like the idea of making mock ups using 6mm rod Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mikey Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Am keen to see what dodakies you use to mount said pipe. Also, the copper pipe is just as cert'able as the steel pipe yeah? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 rubber lined P clips are awesome for mounting fuel line.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted May 3, 2012 Author Share Posted May 3, 2012 Yup p clips from b and t for two bucks each . Yeah cert guy said he was happy but have to p clip the fuck out of it. Like one every three inch or so. Fucking heaps. . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 Jesus thats heaps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ta63-1uzze Posted May 3, 2012 Author Share Posted May 3, 2012 He told me to go look at the hot rod hobby car manual at the library . Said it would give me measurements . Will do this in the weekend. I did read it ages ago for brake size info but not for fuel size stuff, will post up what I find out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drftnmaz Posted May 3, 2012 Share Posted May 3, 2012 every 300mm is the legal requirement as far as i remember and you can't cert copper tubing, only copper-nikel, copper work hardens and cracks, hence why the factory use bundy tubing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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