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felixx

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hey man,

Pooman might be more help here but im pretty sure that the TB he used on his manifold was a sigma one. i did the manifold mods for his one (same as what your doing) and i just used a bit of 3" ( i think it was 3", was just a bit of scrap under the bench) pipe bend that i bashed to suit the shape of the manifold.

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MahaMana - Cheers :). Will just look tidier all together I reckon, and having one injector per cylinder makes way more sense :).

Damien - if you pop off the dizzy cap, there will be a metal plate under the rotor, if you pop off the rotor and the metal cap (i think the cap has a couple of screws) you'll be able to see the chopper disc underneath. You'd be my hero and I would do many skids in your honour if you could find one :).

Sheepers - Yeah, I though about going to a bigger pipe, but the throttlebody I'm using is a NA DOHC Galant 60mm one, so no reason to go any larger than 2.5", as that's what all my intercooler piping is anyways :). Plus, I've got boat-loads of 2.5" scrap around after doing the cooler piping.

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what ever you've got lying around will do the job i reckon.

i think i used 3" because by the time i bent and shaped the diameter of the pipe to suit the manifold it had decreased in surface area a bit. TBH i cant remember what size pipe i used but i know what i started with looked a bit bigger that the end of the manifold and by the time id shaped it it was pretty much right.

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I have a SOHC distributor somewhere mate, they are just about identical to the DASH optical distributor. Any pick a part or Mitsubishi wrecker should have at least one NZ-new SOHC 2L MPI Galant, or even the NZ-new Chariots and L300 vans with the MPI 8V have the same distributor.

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what ever you've got lying around will do the job i reckon.

i think i used 3" because by the time i bent and shaped the diameter of the pipe to suit the manifold it had decreased in surface area a bit. TBH i cant remember what size pipe i used but i know what i started with looked a bit bigger that the end of the manifold and by the time id shaped it it was pretty much right.

3 inch pipe.

Picture591.jpg?t=1287564005

Watch out for the dissy, as the throttle/plenum is pretty close.

looking good, great progress.

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Poo - cheers for the pic! Yeah, thats super similar to what I've mocked up. Definately spotted the dizzy and fuel rail clearance issues, thus the angling of the throttlebody.

I was eyeing up the coolant passages... I really don't like having the thermostat at the rear of the head, as the flow though the engine will be wrong for an originally RWD application, Ideally want the coolant coming out the front of the head so it flows through the entire thing, and avoids stagnation at the front. When the US guys do the MPI swap with 2.6 magna manifolds they move the thermostat housing to the front... But there is much less room with our 2.0L setups. Will keep eyeballing it and try to figure something out, otherwise I'll just run a pipe down the middle of the manifold below the plenum and hope for the best :). Could look at a FWD head gasket maybe, and modifying the coolant passages in the block... Hmmmm.

Someone go find me a FWD SOHC 2.0l 8v MPI Galant distributor to play with :)

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hey man i see what your doing with the MPI set up and i like. Very keen to see how this is done with the evo computer, Now im not familiar with this sorta set up but wouldn't ya need to use the evo air flow meter with it? and the temp sensors n that to get a decent idle when hot/cold? or does it not really matter?

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Yup, will be using an evo air flow meter, pretty much any mitsy karmann vortex style ones from a turbo vehicle could be used though I think, as the values in the computer will be tuned to suit. Will use the evo water temp sensor, but I'm assuming that most mitsies of that era will use the same ecu temp sensor anyway, will look it up when I'm at work tomorrow.

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I'll definately need something bigger than the galant ones, but will pick up something cheap somewhere... anything around 400+ cc/min will be fine, as it's only a single cam it really can't flow too much or make too much power, so no need for massive fuelling. Some older 450cc/min single spray pattern vr4 injectors would be ace. The fact the ECU is chipping, and therefore tunable means I can run with anything in that regard. Need to make up a ballast resistor pack though, or find a factory one.

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Cheers man, I only take photos of the good bits, heh :).

All evo 1-3's (as far as i can tell) were the 'single board' version, with an eprom chip that holds all the important maps and other data (as opposed to it being stored internally within the actual microprocessor chip). Unsolder the eprom, solder in a socket, and you've got a tunable factory ecu.

You can modify the versions which store the maps and stuff in internal memory to have external memory (eprom), but its a pain in the ass job apparently... This is what has been done to the evo iv ecu i have, and looking at the work required... Flag that!

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