ryanfels Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Could be a warped disc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 How do you mean rattling? Is the brake pedal shuddering under your foot? or is the whole car shacking? Is it pulling the steering one way or the other while you brake? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LingLing Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 Ok, I am pretty sure they're still the original ones, I will get them machined if not the new ones only cost like 80-120 bucks a pair. if that could solve the problem.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LingLing Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 How do you mean rattling?Is the brake pedal shuddering under your foot? or is the whole car shacking? Is it pulling the steering one way or the other while you brake? the steering wheel shakes , hence you can say the whole car is shaking. I have to hold it hard. doesn't go one way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SHGWAG Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Sounds like a warped a disc Beaten by Ryanlikesthings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Yeh, sounds like a warped disc allllllrite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LingLing Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 hmmm. funny that I only noticed it after changing the wheels and new tyres in the front one second hand in the rear. difference size front and rear tho. didn't notice it while I had the other set of wheels on. anyways, I will get it sorted easy. also, I really really need to fully secure the exhaust...will get around that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanfels Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 But i bet you werent driving the same with the other wheels on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vintage Grumble Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 If it didnt start till after you fitted the wheels, I would say its an unballanced wheel, BUT you should notice that shaking all the time? If the brake pedal is not shaking/wobbling under your foot, its more likely its the wheels rather than the brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LingLing Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 If it didnt start till after you fitted the wheels, I would say its an unballanced wheel, BUT you should notice that shaking all the time?If the brake pedal is not shaking/wobbling under your foot, its more likely its the wheels rather than the brakes. the car does shake when I pick up speed, again, this could be the shit track, but city driving is fine. I will get to it and report to you guys in next few days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LingLing Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 no new pads. yeh no brakes at high speed still shakes bit, but maybe it meant to do that or the bushes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glen Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 your tire/wheel is out of ballence then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LingLing Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 I do notice that the front wheel bearing grease leaked out from the front metal cap after lots of hot laps. so could be the gease got heated up and expanded? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 Andy - the grease will come out after a few hot laps. The best solution is to add more grease after the day (just poke some over the nut and leave a little extra in the cap). It's also very easy to warp discs in old toyotas. Over-tightening the wheel nuts makes them warp easier and you're much more likely to warp them when driving an unfamilliar car. If the ride is crap, I'd say look into getting decent shocks. Usually a bumpy/rattly ride is due to the spring overpowering the shock, as well as things like worn bushes. If you were to find a set of TRD springs and shocks it would most likely ride and handle very well - and wouldn't need a cert. Are you coming to Oldschool trackday? If you do I'll take it for a drive and give you an idea of what it's like, then you can come for a ride in my 86 if you want? I'm sure slacker.cam would be keen for the same deal too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LingLing Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 Yeh notch, please thrash my car and I would like to know/feel what a race spec 86 will be like! also, what suspensions do you have? and how do you feel about them? cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 I run a custom bilstein coilover setup in the front and custom Koni's in the rear. Springs rates are 550lb (9.8kg) front and 280lb (5kg) rear wit a standard rear swaybar and bigger adjustable front bar. But my car also has custom front arms with rose joints all round as well as an even-length 4-link in the rear and a roll cage to stiffen it up - different ballgame really. From what I've seen the BC coilovers work well for the price - although the springs are too hard for a basic car IMO. But then again, my dads "standard" 86 road car has normal KYB shocks and B&G springs and it handles pretty bloody well too. It depends what you want out of the car. If it's meant for mostly track work, go coilover. If it's for the road and cruising, go with good shocks and standard style springs (TRD). If you want a top-notch shock setup, go and see Anthony at Bilstein motorsport or the boys at Autolign and ask what they can do in the way of Bilstein shocks for the 86. They will make a huge difference and outperform a BC shock by far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LingLing Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 Man, that's hardcore. I would like to do that but yeh my car is pretty much road car only max once per month track day. so I will probably go with the cheapest option, trd racing set all the way or .... bcs, I still can't make my mind at the moment. my rear is trd shocks 8 way adjustable, the front are standarded shocks, but the bumpy ride seems come from the rear. the springs are bit mystery really.. front is Dobi or Bestex or some brand, I hear they're ok. The rear springs could be trd or standard and could be cut or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 but the bumpy ride seems come from the rear. Cut the fucking bump stops like you have already been told multiple times. Of course the ride is fucking bumpy when it is bottomed out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted February 7, 2012 Share Posted February 7, 2012 It might be worth having the rear shocks checked. If they're worn out you would be better off having a standard KYB... Or you could try adjusting them to see what difference it makes. How close does it sit to the bump stops? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LingLing Posted February 7, 2012 Author Share Posted February 7, 2012 very far away to be honest, check the project thread for pictures. I am 95% sure, the bumpy ride on the track is not because the bump stop hits. but on the road yeh, some times they do touch as I going over a pot hole or something. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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