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Opel Vectra Track Car


mikuni

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Why do pretty much all FWD vehicles have the exhaust at the front of the motor and the intake at the rear? Looking at what you've done it seems stupid to do it any other way. Maybe I'm missing something obvious?
Not sure really. I guess having the complex intake at the back where there is more vertical room makes some sense. Other issue is this is the generation of cars where they were turning RWD engines into FWD engines, so they had to make do with what they had - putting the block away from the driver (in LHD Europe) makes sense.
After all this, the engine is still going to be in the wrong way ............
I must admit, it wouldn't be much more difficult to make it RWD than what I'm doing, but that's not the point really.
take on more than you can manage, do it often.
So sheepers, when are you going to build that ST191 tourer?
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This is awesome. Nice work dude.

Why do pretty much all FWD vehicles have the exhaust at the front of the motor and the intake at the rear? Looking at what you've done it seems stupid to do it any other way. Maybe I'm missing something obvious?

Just about every pug has the exhaust at the back and intake at the front.

Brad - It's prity common to cut and weld the mi16 manifold as its too long when putting it into the 205. I'm sure you could find a second hand manifold that would help in reducing the height of the manifold while retaining a factoryish setup. The 206 gti180 manifold has the plenum under the runners with the throttle body mounted lower. Would it be possible to locate a cheap manifold that you could cut and weld onto your flange face. Could you also maybe put a wedge plate onto the flange face to angle the manifold downwards more?

manifold i.e.:

Peugeot 307

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Peugeot 206gti180:

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Small Chadesc bonnet mod?

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Not really an option the factory intake isn't tubular like those, it is a horrible cast monstrosity of yuckness, as pictured below.

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It also has a big bulbous bit on the bottom that would mean it can't be angled.

My first attempt will be running ITB's through an airbox and the factory airflow meter to see if it works (has done for some people on XE's, hasn't for others) and will upgrade to a link and a better airbox arrangement later on hopefully.

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Now that you're going to run a cable gearshift and different steering set up will you be moving the seat right back past the B pillar for that true Super Tourer style?
Absolutely, it will be as far back as possible, inline with the B pillar and butted up against the rear seats.

I'm going to try and go cheap and sit the existing pedal box in the new firewall, but will go with an aftermarket pedal box if that doesn't work out for whatever reason.

Come on brad, you know this thing has to have ITBs from the get go.

Lets be realistic here :D

:D Will see how it goes..
Makes sense. going to use the trailer guards? They're nice and strong.
Yes. They'll be perfect now I need to add some strength back in there.
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Hey Brad, looking good. Why not stick the radiator in the boot and feed it off NACA ducts and vents?

I did consider it, but quite a lot more work for minimal, if any gain. I think with the weight of the pipes and the additional coolant required I'd probably be taking a step backwards.

I'm getting an SW20 radiator, which is low and wide and I'll probably tilt it back to get the weight lower again. It's a good compromise I think and being that it's designed to cool a 3S-GTE it should be more than enough for an NA 2 litre, even when working pretty hard.

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Keen to draw up a concept of what I want to do with this car once you've finished the Fraser?

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Sw20 rad should be chur but dont forget they carry a lot of coolant (15l)!

An entire SW20 carries 13.6l of coolant, but that includes the engine and all the piping to the back/front of the car. The radiator itself holds less than 2l of coolant. The radiator is 5.6kg, so 7.5ish kg's spread wide and low in the front of the engine bay is a small price to pay to have an efficient cooling system. I'll consider upgrading to an alloy one down the track if it really bothers me.

In more important/sad news. I've been made aware that conventional FWD gearboxes function differently to what I had assumed. Unfortunately this means that my idea of simply flipping the crown wheel in the differential housing won't work as it would in a RWD.

I had a feeling it was too easy to be true! So this just means I'll have to revert back to a conventional drive layout to get the car on the road sooner while I coin a new solution to the issue/save up heaps of coins for a lush gearbox.

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Open to suggestions definitely.

I could run an H22A or B series gearbox backwards, but to make the driveshafts come out the front I need to leave the engine in it's original orientation. Meaning the intake on the rear, exhaust out the front, which I want to avoid.

Honda K20A and F20C series now run clockwise, so no advantage over the factory Opel box.

I had thought about Rover K series also, but I think that spins the conventional way?

Either way, I think spinning a gearbox backwards may introdue a new raft of issues, so might put this idea on the back burner for a little while at this stage :(

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the rover will spin the same as the honda F/K - Grant Te Rito's bro runs a tomcat box on his fwd F20c civic.

sorry yeah I forgot which honda motor spins which way - good point re the driveshafts though - you'd still need something that had driveshafts on the intake/new forward side of the block when motor is spun.

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